RAlly_DatoB210 Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 Hey just bought my 4th dato! Super stoked I'm no longer a mater lol. It's a round eye 210 hatch from 79. It needs a few things though but previous owner was cool and is going to help get it on the road for me. I need a good carb stock hitachi or webber just something that will make it run and drive. The carb on there now won't idle or even start without the buttfly on the choke wide open. Troubleshoot? Or get a new one and bolt it up. It also needs the rear gas shocks to hold up the hatch lid. The shocks are pretty mushy and bouncy too but lower on the priority list. Mainly need a good ignition and keys and the carb and it's set. Currently have to tap the hot lead to the live wire on the amp to start it. Thanks Ps I'm in Maui but I will pay shipping. I can paypal or send a check. Really tight on cash but I still have a few things in wa I would do a trade or pay whatever I can. I have a mint stock b210 grill lights buckets etc for a 77. I also have a goped Bigfoot with bag and a verde vex bmx bike. Would prefer to deal cash unless a bulk load of stuff. Flat rate boxes will be cheapest. Thank you again Evan Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 For starting, unbolt the ignition switch from the back of the ignition lock/key cylinder. Then you can start it with a screwdriver -- Maui runner style. Why not wire the choke up, if it starts OK with it fully open? Link to comment
RAlly_DatoB210 Posted February 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 For starting, unbolt the ignition switch from the back of the ignition lock/key cylinder. Then you can start it with a screwdriver -- Maui runner style. I'll probably wire in a push button from the hotline to the ignition but i was hoping to still use the key so people couldnt steal it so easy. Carb is zip tied open but the car will still choke out and die unless excellerating. Is this all carb issues or something worse? Why not wire the choke up, if it starts OK with it fully open? Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 If you have the keys, why are you hot-wiring it? It sounds like a carb issue, yes. Where is the fuel level in the site glass? If its not very close the line, it won't run correctly. Link to comment
RAlly_DatoB210 Posted February 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 If you have the keys, why are you hot-wiring it? It sounds like a carb issue, yes. Where is the fuel level in the site glass? If its not very close the line, it won't run correctly. It won't crank the starter over when you turn the key. Lights up everything works but you have to do a direct line off the starter to get it to work. The fuel is about half full on the carb. Could the float be getting stuck? Would turning the idle stop point on the screw balance it out? Also there was a plunger looking thing on the carb and when under excelleration it would close off. What is that and did that effect anything? Looked like it was on bent metal hanger too Link to comment
fuzz's '71 510 Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 Safety switch on the clutch pedal bad???? Link to comment
RAlly_DatoB210 Posted February 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 Safety switch on the clutch pedal bad???? It's an autotragic. It was in park when attempting. Guy said sometimes works sometimes doesn't but he usually did the hot wire thing. I might just put a toggle under the seat and have a button to push to close the loop ad start the car. Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 It's probably the automatic interlock switch. It might work from the key if you jiggle the shifter between park and reverse. But I'd just the push button. Link to comment
RAlly_DatoB210 Posted February 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 Right on. I'm dropping 1000 bucks on the car and it seems like a decent deal then. That explains why it starts in neauteal. Do you happen to have a carb that will work laying around? I can paypal you tonight if you are willing to ship. Evan Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 The fuel is about half full on the carb About halfway is not precise enough. It should be with 1 mm of the dot. Could the float be getting stuck? I doubt it or it wouldn't run good at all. Would turning the idle stop point on the screw balance it out? Doubtful. The idle should be set to 850 in nuetral, engine fully warm. Also there was a plunger looking thing on the carb and when under excelleration it would close off. What is that and did that effect anything? Where do see this? Got pics? Link to comment
RAlly_DatoB210 Posted February 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 About halfway is not precise enough. It should be with 1 mm of the dot. I can take some picture next time I see it. The fuel Is above the dot maybe a little over a mm? Idk it was over half full. If you revved it it would idle but as soon as you backed off it would sputter and die. Could it be fuel pump? Or is this a definate carb issue? I doubt it or it wouldn't run good at all. Doubtful. The idle should be set to 850 in nuetral, engine fully warm. Where do see this? Got pics? Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 How could it be a fuel pump issue? If it's not getting enough gas, the choke would help, not hinder. I'd start with the carburetor basics: Fuel level exactly ajusted, fuel pressure & volume checked. Link to comment
RAlly_DatoB210 Posted February 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 How could it be a fuel pump issue? If it's not getting enough gas, the choke would help, not hinder. I'd start with the carburetor basics: Fuel level exactly ajusted, fuel pressure & volume checked. How would one go about this process? Wait brb I'll search it instead of being lazy. It's a mechanical choke right? What is zip tied open is the bitterly on the second barrel of the carb. That is the choke correct? Or? Link to comment
RAlly_DatoB210 Posted February 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 Ok I searched for hitachi and found a rebuild kit etc. Is this a good route? I rebuilt the carb on my ct90 and. It was pretty straitforward. The two air jet looking things aren't visibly spraying fuel into the throat. My 510 sedan had the same symptoms and one person thought fuel pump. Should I unhook it and try and test it or is it a carb issue? I will try and take a video of it running if I can. It just runs in revs then backfires out the top when it is no longer under load. I have only seen it start using starter fluid too and the previous owner kept a hose from the cab into the carb and would shoot it first before trying to start it and web it died. Like spray connect hot wires floor it. Are these major danger signs or just carb issues? Link to comment
RAlly_DatoB210 Posted February 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 Ok so I buy the little tester thin or is there an easier and free way? I want about 6psi of pressure for a carbed engine correct? Also there is a lot of loose hoses and emissions crap just dangling there will this cause a vacume leak that will lower the pressure? What needs plugged and what can stay an open hose? Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 I wouldn't buy a rebuild kit. You don't even know what wrong with it yet. Usually they don't need a rebuild kit. Or it won't help. Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 What is zip tied open is the bitterly on the second barrel of the carb. That is the choke correct? Or? Well I can't see it from here. Send me a ticket and I'll come fix it ... or post up a photo. The choke on a B310 1979 is only on the Primary: Link to comment
RAlly_DatoB210 Posted February 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 Well I can't see it from here. Send me a ticket and I'll come fix it ... or post up a photo. The choke on a B310 1979 is only on the Primary: Perfect that picture is exactly what I'm looking at. That's what's zip tied open too. So that knob is what adjusts the choke? Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 Yes, rotating the choke housing will adjust the choke. But it won't fix your problem. Even in Hawaii, the engine should start with the choke partway closed. If it won't start unless fully blocked open, no adjustment will fix it. so I buy the little tester thin or is there an easier and free way? I want about 6psi of pressure for a carbed engine correct? Borrow a tester. They are often combined with a vacuum gauge. Carburetors want 3 psi. Weber or Hitachi, or most others maybe up to 3.2. 6 psi will often cause flooding. If you have an electric fuel pump that may be the problem. Link to comment
RAlly_DatoB210 Posted February 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 Yes, rotating the choke housing will adjust the choke. But it won't fix your problem. Even in Hawaii, the engine should start with the choke partway closed. If it won't start unless fully blocked open, no adjustment will fix it so should I maybe avoid the car all together? I want to get it and have another datsun but I don't want a money pit or lawn ornament. Will a new carb fix this or is it something more than that like internally wrong with the engine etc? I will see if fuel pump is mechanical or electric next time I see it. Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 should I maybe avoid the car all together? Come on man, it's a 1979 round-light. It's over 25 years old and looks it, that makes it a classic. Or you could buy a white Neon and look like everybody else. Will a new carb fix this ... ? Unknown. What is wrong with it has not been established yet. It might not be the carb. is it something ... like internally wrong with the engine etc? Probably not. Does it run good once you get going? If so, nothing wrong with the engine. Do the two smoke tests. If it smokes don't buy it unless you want to change or rebuild the engine. That's my number 1 consideration when buying a car. The rest is obvious you either hate/love the exterior or interior, but the engine you won't know until you check it out. If you can borrow a compression tester that will be a plus, but I bought a car last month without a tester, just on the strength of the smoke tests, a test drive, and a visual inspection. Link to comment
RAlly_DatoB210 Posted February 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 I guess your right I should commit to it. For the same price I get a similar condition 240sx hatch with potentially half the miles in running and driving condition. I am pretty sold on it but I really need to put things into perspective. I will have less than a thousand dollars to my name and i don't have a job yet. I will hopefully be able to check it out tommorrow and get a video of it running etc. So far it hasn't ran or driven but the guy said he doesn't need the money unless it does both and I'm happy with it. He will do payments too but I would rather do cash up front. Your right I shouldn't have second thoughts i just need a solid parts hook up. This is potentially the only one on the island left. I saw one similar shape b210 and that was it for anything a series powered. Assuming I'll ever get parts let alone how? Trans takes a crap I can't moped my ass up a volcano and back to get one and they sure won't let me on the bus with it lol. I guess I'll just buy it for the love of datsuns but I just hope it isn't a mistake. Thanks for all the help I will keep this posted with updates. Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 carb will fit in a $15 flat rate box i think. I might have one, but mine just stopped idling and I need to replace it with one of my spares. Link to comment
RAlly_DatoB210 Posted February 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 carb will fit in a $15 flat rate box i think. I might have one, but mine just stopped idling and I need to replace it with one of my spares. Cool I might have lined up a deal with someone in Elma. But if it falls through I would buy one if you have spares just throw a price at me. Link to comment
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