help with my a15

[northerncali210]

for a while ive had a slight valve tick. so earlier this week i adjusted the valves. checked the timing and while i was under the hood i figured i should check all my vaccuum lines. they have seemed to be jumbled around, i went through one by one and put them in there correct spots. i picked up a cap and rotor for safe measures, and noticed that the points in the distributor are very unevenly worn, and theres a metal shim floating around beneath all that...

 

NOW my car runs like a pile of crap, it used to run greattt. it misses, it dies, wont go over 50mph, haha and now even the belt squeels!! Phuck me, right!? i feel like my car is pissed at me right now.. for all i know, it could just be that the vaccuum lines were messed up for a reason. but now i dont remember were they were

 

any advice would be greatly appreciated!!

[KC Phirus]

Didja check da earl?

[ggzilla]

Tighten the fan belt. If you can move it more than 1/2" with one finger, it's too loose.

 

Put the hoses back where they were. They may have been connected oddly to bypass leaking vacuum diaphragms. If so you connected them back up to vacuum leaks.

 

The wear on the distributor is sadly, normal. Don't worry about it. If you wish, I will sell you mine (i rebuilt the bearing plate) for $75 shipped. PM me if you want. But your engine will run OK with the one you have.

[northerncali210]

thanks guy's!

this problem is still haunting me. ive checked the entire vacuum hose system. tried running hoses elsewhere. . etc.

does anyone know which hoses are completely vital to let the engine run. im trying to start from the begining and track down this Phucking issue!!

 

i know that all the lines will need to be hooked back up, but where should i start? how much vacuum should i be getting?

 

the alititude compensator? where does the bottom/main hose go? or how can i cut that thing out? just cap the hoses..?

[northerncali210]

not a vacuum problem.

 

 

 

the 1st cyl. gets regular spark, but when disconnected the engine runs the same.

similar problem with the #2 cyl. it gets a somewhat irregular sprk but runs no different when disconnected.

 

while driving, it surges, and chokes like theres a fuel problem. but its getting fuel, float is good, jets are good, fuel pump is good, fuel filter is clean...

 

someone must have some ideas??

[femtnmax]

IMO the only vacuum lines needed are 1 to the distributor advance from RH side of carb (ported vacuum), and 1 other to the air cleaner hot air flapper (I'm in a cold climate). GGZ is correct about putting the hoses back....someone may have mixed them around to bypass a problem. The one to the dist has a T in it and also routes to the charcoal canister.

When did you last clean the PCV valve?? Its not the problem but take it out, it should rattle when shaken. Give it several good shots of carb spray from both ends of the valve...should rattle freely now. I always use Gumout brand, some green brands are a joke, polluting the environment with production of useless products.

There is a bimetallic spring inside the air cleaner...on mine the springs were aged or bent by someone and made the engine miss on cyl 1 and partially cyl #2. I eliminated the bimetallic...it is there for hot climate...maybe someday I'll find a good bimetallic spring to try it out.

I always take all those vac hoses off to eliminate problems like your having. IMO I would not put them all back on, but do as you see fit. ONe suggestion...take a photo of the current setup...then take ALL of them off, and block off at the carb...engine should idle and run ok...then add the dist vac advance and stop there.

Have you ever rebuilt the carb??? there could be issues in the carb that the mixed up vac hoses are bandaid fixing.

Your A15 should have come with electronic ignition if USA and 1980's. Find an A-engine electronic distributor with control module on the side...only takes two wires to hook it up plus need ignition coil to match the distributor...its a great improvement over points. If you find the dist...take it apart and clean/regrease/repair as required. Good luck.

[ggzilla]

The SQUEALING is most likely a loose belt. Have you checked it for the 1/2 inch play? Any more and it will squeal under some conditions.

 

 

1st cyl. gets regular spark, but when disconnected the engine runs the same

 

Re-check the valve lash. You may have the valves for 1st cylinder too tight. They should be:

* Normal operating temperature: 0.014 inch HOT

* Cold (70 degrees): 0.013" COLD

Make sure the distributor is pointing to spark plug wire #1, and crank mark is at TDC (0).

 

If this doesn't solve it, do a compression test. Another possible cause is a vacuum leak on the #1 cylinder.

 

 

while driving, it surges, and chokes like theres a fuel problem

Classic symptoms of an air leak (vacuum leak).

 

i figured i should check all my vaccuum lines. they have seemed to be jumbled around, i went through one by one and put them in there correct spots...NOW my car runs like a pile of crap

 

Very common. Instead of trying to elminate the hoses, can you put them back where they were -- after all, it ran OK where they were, and doesn't run OK now.

[ggzilla]

In Arcata, California you may not have required smog inspections, but are still subject to requirements. Besides, taking off the equipment will make it harder to sell to another californian.

 

The only hoses you need are: Brake booster hose. You can plug all the others including the distributor advance hose and all hoses on the carburetor. It will run poorly when cold. Let use know how it runs otherwise.

[femtnmax]

Did you recheck the spark plug wires...two crossed wires will give some of your symptoms.