jefe de jefes Posted July 3, 2011 Report Share Posted July 3, 2011 I wanted to bring this up again since some of us might have non-functioning 510 tachometers laying around. I just finished upgrading mine. Here's the process. Theres a article in the dime quarterly that explains this but i will take you through my steps. this is fairly simple to do. First I went to the U-pull it and got a stock tach from a nissan sentra [not recomended by the article because it doesnt fit inside the stock tach box but I made do] Then you take the board off of the stock nissan/datsun donor tach. you locate the green/yellow wires on the back of the tach Cut then wires off on the faceplate side so you have the most room to wire the new board in to the old face plate. Then strip the wires. then set the donor tach aside. Next take your stock tach and take off the face plate by removing the 4 screws on the front in each corner. then remove the 4 screws on the back of the stock case and pull out the tach faceplate and the board that is attached. proceed to remove the two boards [one in the stock orange needle tach] by removing the brass spacer bolts. locate the green/yellow wires on the stock tach and cut them close to the board not the face plate [opposite of the donor tach!] next I ran two new wires out of the back of my tach [ one for the green and one for the yellow] to connect to the new tach board. [since I got a newer year and the board was changed so that it doesnt fit in the stock box] Then just connect the green wire to the green wire and the yellow to the yellow. now the tricky part. if you got a newer tach [like me] its not inductive. there are only three wires. The new board will have three wires comming off of it to connect to the harness in the car you pulled it from. Mine had a red,black, and a yellow. red was +12v. black was ground. and yellow went to the +side of the coil. now my tachs shows this when I give it some gas! ** thanks atomchurch for taking the time to take pics of the process explained above ** I was too lazy to upload and add all the pics I took of my process so I'll just add a few of the more important ones to atoms method. This was the board I removed from mine. As you can see below. Someone had already tried repairing the old board. I used a spare board from a 720 truck I believe. I can't remember which year I used but it's the square tach one below. There is a round tach in the newer 720's I think. The board is pretty much the same size as the original 510 tach board. The donor 720 board will fit inside the 510 tach housing with minor modifications. I didn't want to mess with my tach housing so I screwed the donor 720 board to the outside of the housing. The donor 720 board came with a Plug with wires that made connecting it to the vehicle a breeze. Here I am testing it. She lives again! The wiring how to is located in the following link. http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/DQ_11.3_510_Factory_Tach_Repair.pdf It's basically power, ground, and signal from the - side of your coil. Assuming you have electronic ignition installed. Not sure if it's the same for the points setup. Thanks again to atomchurch and the Dime Quarterly. Quote Link to comment
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