LOCAL help! bay area, 510 ka24de

[SubwayGUY4]

Alright I've just about tried everything to wire this alternator.....and quite frankly I just don't know how to do it. It is the only thing keeping me from driving the car so it is really starting to annoy me.

 

So, point is if anyone in the area can easily finish off the last part of the swap I will be very greatful :) and will also pay a bit of cash for a housecall...

 

I've already worked like 2 hours looking through it and 2 local guys one of which who had a 510, but we came up short...so maybe someone who has done it already would be preferred...but anything works.

 

MY number is 707 718-1607

call me anytime since I'm trying to get this to work in a hurry so I can sell my other car and pay off some debt.

 

Thank you.

[NCRmtrsprts510]

some more specs on what has been tried and voltage reg, and new alt?

 

 

[SubwayGUY4]

Well we believe it was converted already to be internally regulated. We pluged the two wires coming from the previous wiring harness into the alternator. It was a no go, switch em around, still a no go. Maybe the alternator my friend gave me is dead? because before....when I would try to do a wire from the starter/bat and hook it to the batt+ on the alternator it would blow the fuse.

 

The new alternator didn't cause this problem.....but also it didn't really help either....

 

Perhaps I could hardwire it? I tried to figure out how to do that but there wasn't really a straight answer online...

[SubwayGUY4]

Alright so I just looked at other ways to wire this.....and let me get this straight.

 

On the alt plug. The small white/red is for the charge light.

 

The Thicker of the two goes on the to bat+ side of the alternator?

Then the bat+ side of the alternator goes to the actually Battery?

 

or does the Thick wire go straight to the battery....and the bat+ side of the alternator gets a straight 12v from the battery........

 

or the other option where I'm just completely wrong on both....

[NCRmtrsprts510]

so you are running no voltage regulator at all? have you tried running it with the regulator? what year is the alternator from?

 

because i know on my ca that, it is not internally reg and i have to run it through the voltage regulator. then my charge wire runs to the starter where the battery + is and thats how mine charges. so it goes, Alternator -> Voltage Regulator -> Starter Positive -> Battery.. just how it was hooked up with the L-series engine.

[SubwayGUY4]

I mean there is a volt regulator there....I tried the thick alt wire to the volt to the +on the alt/bat still a no go....

[NCRmtrsprts510]

can you take some pics of your wiring?

 

do you have both alt wires going to the reg?

[SubwayGUY4]

I'll try to take a detailed pic soon and sort it out so it doesnt look like a clunk of wires.....maybe perhaps since your somewhat close you could maybe help me out? I'll shoot you 30 just for the drive out here.

[INDY510]

Is it a S13 KA24DE?

 

 

I have the same motor........... the alt has a plug with 2 wires........ 1 wht/red stripe........ and one heavier guage solid white wire.....

 

 

Next to the plug there should be a "+" terminal on the alternator.......... sometimes it says, "Batt" .... or "+"

 

 

I have a 8 guage wire from the "+" on the alternator to the "+" terminal on the battery........

 

 

the wht/red wire is for the "chg" light and mine isn't even connected to anything............ the solid white wire goes to a 80amp Alt fuse then to the "+" terminal on the battery

 

 

 

I hope that helps........ I can take pics tommorow if you need them.....

[SubwayGUY4]

Alright I was thinking maybe the wack 14 guage wire aint cuttin it....

 

but. as for the solid white wire going all the way to the + on the battery can it just be touching the starter? or a 12v source or does it gotta be to the actual terminal...

 

Well thats awesome thanks for the straight answer and if you wanna take a pic thatd be awesome.

 

Thanks

[INDY510]

The "+" terminal on the alternator has a 8-10mm nut....

 

 

And I would use a 8 guage wire with a ring connector.............. mine was working going from the alt to the starter (just make shure you have a good contact to the "+" side of the starter,,, not the ground ;) )

 

 

The 8 guage wire is different from the plug on the alt. with 2 wires (14-16 guage wht/red stripe........ and a solid white 10-12 guage wire)

 

 

I've heard some people still get a charge with only the 8 guage wire hooked up... ...... I'll post pics in a 15 minutes

[INDY510]

Hope this helps: .......... thin wht/red wire: connects to nothing.......... solid white wire goes to a 80amp alt fuse on the battery clamp

 

and the 8 guage wire goes straight from the alt to the battery:

 

 

 

 

 

 

[SubwayGUY4]

Alright I'll try the thicker wire...Although I have tried something like that setup.

 

The only difference was the thick white white was touching the + side on the alt which was also feeding from the batt. Isn't that the same thing or Should I go directly....but also perhaps the 14 gauge wire coming off the starter terminal isn't thick enough to charge it......maybe I'm not sure I'll try the thicker wire.

[SubwayGUY4]

Also........heres a thing i forgot to mention......the cars battery is pretty crap. I usually jump it to test stuff...when its running off my other car it runs a good 14v

 

Soon as I take the jumper cables off it dies......check the battery it pulls up a 9.2 and dropping fast.......could my car possibly have been charging just that the battery was absolute crap that the alt couldn't keep it alive?

[NCRmtrsprts510]

if the battery has 9.2v and it drops fast without the car running? that battery is shot dude.

[SubwayGUY4]

yeah haha.......hmm.......well I swapped in another battery, followed inddy510's wiring and it is still not charging.......Should i just run the wire completely to the battery and not a 12v source i tried running to the v regulator too and its not jumping to 14.4.........maybe the fusible link is bad? i cant really seem to find that either though......so idk yeah im at a loss. i'll throw a pick on here soon.

[SubwayGUY4]

.

[SubwayGUY4]

Ok first picture is it going into the stock wiring for the volt regulator I tried switching them back and forth. no go

 

Second is the Red wire on the + on the alt.

 

Third is that same wire on the + alt touching or going to the starter which goes to the + on the batt.

 

Lastly is my attempt at the large white thicker wire to the starter/batt also. Which didn't work either....

 

 

So anyone got any ideas?

 

[Unclejesse88]

So this is a late model KA internally regulated alternator right? I just installed one on my L16. I made a conversion harness to change the two wire "T" plug into the late model plug. I then made a jumper to replace the regulator with. There are pictures on this site of which wires to jump. I then ran an 8 gauge charge wire from the B+ post on the alt to the starter terminal. The cable includes fusible links. This is a 60 amp alt if I remember correctly, so you can use the 80 amp fusible link in your picture as protection for your charge wire. Oh, and yes, if you touch battery positive to the B+ post on the alternator, and it opens a fuse, then there is an internal short to ground in the alternator. You could verify this by touching an ohmmeter between the alternator case and the B+ post(alternator disconnected). If there is continuity then the alternator is shorted.

[NCRmtrsprts510]

did you try switching these two wires? because i know one of these wires tells the alt to start charging.

[SubwayGUY4]

So this is a late model KA internally regulated alternator right? I just installed one on my L16. I made a conversion harness to change the two wire "T" plug into the late model plug. I then made a jumper to replace the regulator with. There are pictures on this site of which wires to jump. I then ran an 8 gauge charge wire from the B+ post on the alt to the starter terminal. The cable includes fusible links. This is a 60 amp alt if I remember correctly, so you can use the 80 amp fusible link in your picture as protection for your charge wire. Oh, and yes, if you touch battery positive to the B+ post on the alternator, and it opens a fuse, then there is an internal short to ground in the alternator. You could verify this by touching an ohmmeter between the alternator case and the B+ post(alternator disconnected). If there is continuity then the alternator is shorted.

 

I'm not really good with electrical terms nor understand it very well.

Whats a jumper? and are fusible links just like buss fuse type things?

and when you say open a fuse you mean blow it right? because when I run a 12v wire to the alt and accidently touch the body of the alternator it sparks up. I'm not sure if thats waht you meant. Also if the alternator is shorted...does that mean I need another one or just a grounding type of issue. And lastly..........will the test kragen does on the alternator tell me anything?

 

did you try switching these two wires? because i know one of these wires tells the alt to start charging.

 

Yeah I switched em didn't do anything

[SubwayGUY4]

Well I finally Fixed it...........the V regulator had never been converted to internal. Problem solved........but the connector that goes to the Regulator and other plug, do I just leave them be or connect them?

[NCRmtrsprts510]

well if its fixed just leave it...? make sure u ground ur alternator, u dont want that current running through ur engine and bearings trying to a ground.