leaking gas

[boxboy]

So I had the truck driving and braking good, so I thought I would take my 10 month old for a ride to church (3 miles away). Got about half way there and the truck started stumbling and I couldn't get power. Got off the road and popped the hood to find fuel leaking down the fuel line. The float level looked fine, and it idled okay. Just couldn't do anything in gear. Towed her home and this afternoon pulled the air cleaner assy. to find the piece that receives the soft fuel line was loose and fuel was leaking out. So I tightened the bottom nut to the carb and then snugged the top nut. No more leak. BUT, now I can idle, or go full throttle, but it is really rough everywhere else. The float level is perfect, and I ran new soft fuel lines as I saw some cracking in the old ones. Any ideas? The engine ran beautifully up to now and I didn't suspect any problems, although I did hear it diesel a bit once after turning off the key.

 

I hope that I just bumped something out of adjustment when I tightened the nuts down. I just assumed all they did was attach the fuel line. It seems to my limited logic that if the float level is fine, something must have gotten in and clogged my jets?

 

I know nothing about carburetors and fuel systems. So teach away.

[DISLEXICDIME]

smell your oil see if it smells like gas if the fuel pump go's bad it can leak in to the oil

 

it sounds like you might have a clogged jet

[boxboy]

That was my first guess too. How do I unclog it is the question. I have no experience with carbs.

 

Is there a link to a tutorial anywhere? Can I do it without removing the carb.? (Please say "yes")

 

From what I can tell it is half the cost of a new carb to buy a rebuild kit for these Nikki's. I'd like to not have to. Any advice well appreciated.

[boxboy]

There is nothing wrong with the fuel pump. Squirts gas everywhere if I loosen the hose clamp. Float level is right on. Short quick pumps of the pedal can get me to higher RPM's, but slow steady acceleration kills it. Runs better with the choke closed, which suggests to me the jet is clogged. Can anyone tell me if it is possible to flush out the jets without removing the carb? Is it possible that if I take out the plugs below the bowl that whatever is blocking the passageway will flush out? So strange that this just started after the fuel inlet leak.

[Datsun fan]

Don't expect and stick to your expectation!

Now follow this scenario

things to check/set :

 

Check dizzy points and wires .

Check your spark plugs color/condition clean them using diesel oil or white spirit .... and

adjust plugs gap if necessary then reuse them.

Check if the ignition timing is set correctly .

Check your air cleaner, the filter should be clean enough to see many tiny holes when looking

through it towards the sun or a lamp, clean using compressed air from inside to outside if

necessary , clean your air cleaner housing .

Check gas tank condition, Try to suck some gas from hose right before the gas filter and spit

on a tissue.Is it hard to suck? is the gas dirty/rusty?

Try to suck some gas from hose right AFTER the gas filter. Is it hard to suck? Is the filter

installed backwards?

Your worst enemy is leaks, check the whole fuel system for leaks: Gas filler cap,filler neck,

fuel lines, pipes, hoses, remove every single clamp and check for wear/rupture .

check vacuum advance hose (small diameter hose between carb and dizzy)then check the diaphragm

on dizzy by sucking some air from the hose connected to it should hold at least some vacuum

Bring carb cleaner can, start that pig and let it reach operating temp, then spray some

carb cleaner on the carb outer sides and on the manifold, the trick is to spray on suspicious

areas such as gaskets, screws ...... and mixing suspected leaking air to inside with flammable

gas then if the engine RPM changed dramatically while spraying that will indicate a leak to

be repaired( upper carb/base carb gasket,front sight glass/back cut off solenoid,intake/exhaust

manifold,exhaust to head gasket).

Now start the pig again then go to carb and try to increase RPM to 3000 and try to strangle

the carb temporarily from it's top using your hand (don't worry, it's legal) to close it then

release carb throttle allowing it to rev down, repeat this quickly for 5 times so if there is

a piece of crap blocking the jet will be released .

Then try to empty the carb from gas then spray carb cleaner through it's throat, this will

dissolves varnish deposits from jets and passages.Now start the engine normally and reach

operating temp, let it idle at 650 RPM then try to shut carb mouth using your hands, did the

engine die? if not then there is still air leak.

That was a general check/repair should be performed when getting a used car.

Hope this writeup will help you and prevent roadside headache.

If this didn't help you, then stop going to church and find a blessed way to a stripper club :lol: . Just kidding

good luck

[boxboy]

I removed the jet plugs, let all the gas flush out of the bowl, ran a 10# test fishing line up through both jets, blew in some carb cleaner, blew in some compressed air, but it all back together and she runs like a champ. I have SeaFoam in the gas tank right now. I am still noticing some dieseling once in a while when I shut her off. Hopefully the SeaFoam will help with that. I am assuming carbon build up or something. All plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air cleaner are new. New fuel filter too and installed correctly. New fuel lines everywhere. So far so good. Drove her about 30 miles today with out a hiccup. Just a short diesel after shutting her off.