ka motor mount help!

[onefine,fivedime]

i was wondering if anyone would happen to own some mckinney motor mount brkts and b willing to give me the measurements of them? any negatives about runing there mounts? info on those poly bushings would b cool too! thanks alot!

[BoostinBen]

I have never run these mounts from mckinney.. but I have had some experience with poly mounts before.. get ready for a lot more motor vibration through the dash and steering wheel if you run poly vs traditional rubber. Ive had a couple sets that I swapped back out for oem mounts. unless your going for big big power you prob wont need them.. or gain much of anything from them. I have had better luck in the past with stock mounts, if I get torque twist with stock mounts then id run an engine dampner.

[onefine,fivedime]

that definately makes alot of sense.... and of course i hadnt thought about that, i wont have big power just a single cam ka w/ headers but i do daily drive, and will definately drift it. withe the monthly(@ least) run through twisty mnt roads =) the main reason i had poly on the brain is cuz a friend of my dad who drag races a civic(well duh! now it makes sense why) siad i should go with poly since im going 2 be abusing thee crap out of my car. ..so i should just ask the question.. what kind of motor mount setup will be best for what will b done with my dime? ive been thinking mostly of runing the 240 mounts w/ the 510 rubbers, but ive heard that the tension on the rubber from angles not being the same on the mounts will rip them. ive talked to many people that have this setup and they all say "no it wont, i dont have that problem" which i had noticed was followed by "but i dont drive it that much" will that happen or am i worrying for no reason? (oh and by the way i love how the color combo looks on ur avatar pic!)

[Guest DatsuNoob]

I have the same mounts. Only the poly portion though. I didnt get the metal part that goes underneath. Okay so here's how Joe and I did mine. I removed the entire L-series mounts, and mounted the pollies in the center holes (after hogging them out a little with a step bit, until the studs dropped in) in the frame, where the old ones sat. Easier to do it with the motor in there, and a jack under the motor to take the weight off. Get a tie down ratchet strap and connect one end to the shock mount and the other end on a centrally located solid bolt or stud, to pull it evenly from the middle of the engine so you dont bias it any one way. (I used an exhaust stud) On the engine side mounts, leave them bolted to the engine. with the pollies bolted in tight to those holes you drilled out in the frame. I made very slight pie cuts (1/8" at a time), and tightened the strap on the passenger side until I got the right tilt at the shifter. You can use a level (or good straight edge) and framing square to butt into the firewall, and check the 90* angle down the reveal of the line in the valve cover for a fairly accurate double check on straightness. It's very important to have the trans X member bolted in tight and hooked up to the tranny mount, or all your angles will magically change when it goes in for good. I got the pass side set and tack welded, then I jumped over to the drivers side. Cut that engine portion of the mount right in 1/2 with my favorite tool and long time friend, Chewie the sawzall (precision isnt too critical). Now on the dr side, you will have 1/2 bolted to the motor, and bolt the other half to the poly bushing. get some 3/16 or so flat stock and make fillers and gussets to fill in the empty spaces. Whew! hope I didnt lose you there, but it seemed to work out fine for me. Good luck, and remember, if the ladies dont find you handsome, they'll atleast find you handy :lol:

 

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