iflyfisher

I put a Gates 9463HD on my power steering pump

The high speed idle adjustment screw sits behind the electric choke. See the attached pictures. Here is what the manual states regarding setting it: "With the engine warmed up and turned OFF, open the throttle and manually engage the choke plates (butterflies). Release the throttle, then release the choke plates. The fast idle cam should now be activated, and the fast idle speed screw should be positioned on the cam shoulder. Start the engine DO NOT DEPRESS THE THROTTLE PEDAL OR THE CHOKE WILL BECOME INOPERATIVE. Adjust the fast idle speed screw "in" (clockwise) to increase speed and "out" (counterclockwise) to decrease the speed." You can start by adjusting the screw to get about 2200 RPM. If you then blip the throttle, the engine will drop about 1000 RPM or so, which should keep the idle high enough you can drive without fear of stalling until the engine is warmed up. At which point the idle speed screw by your throttle linkage controls the idle. Your engine will likely behave differently, so dial in a high-speed idle RPM that works best for your engine and driving.

There is a high speed idle adjustment screw. When the accelerator is depressed fully once, it puts the idle cam on that high speed screw. I set my Weber to idle a bit above 2200 when on that cam. This way I don't have to hold any throttle when starting the engine. If the accelerator is depressed a second time, the idle drops to another cam, which lowers the idle another 1000 or thereabouts. I can't remember exactly, but I think my idle drops to about 1200, which is high enough to keep the truck from stalling at intersections until the engine is warmed up. Once the choke plate fully opens, the idle will drop to the low speed setting, which I set at about 800 on my Weber.

I recently put on a Dayco alternator belt. The alternator on my truck looked like it had been replaced recently. The existing belt was riding very low in the pulley, and it always screeched on startup. The new Dayco belt was wider than the belt that was on, but it too rode very low in the pulley and squealed at startup. I pulled the alternator and replaced the pulley with a Powermaster, and all screeching stopped. That was two months ago, and no issues since. I bought the Dayco on eBay from sixityauto. Gates belts are great, and I put one on the power steering pump.

I've been spending money on mine since I shipped it here the start of summer 🙂

I put a 32/36 in my 2.4L a couple of months ago. I'm not sure what the MPG was with the stock carb. The engine was running so poorly when I got it, I didn't drive it enough to check the MPG. I'm getting 23/24 now, which is a mix of backroad and freeway driving. Usually driving above 75mph when on the freeway. Once I got the carb dialed in, the engine starts easily and runs great with pretty good acceleration for a 40 year old four banger.

@Thomas Perkins, Just drop it in a box. I'll take care of cleaning it up and painting it. You are giving it away, so no need to spend more work on it! I'm guessing there is a way to pm someone. I'll drop you my particulars. Thanks!

@Thomas Perkins, I believe I will take you up on the blower motor. I soaked the felt in the backing plate with light oil and put it back on. I fired up the fan and ran it at high speed. Within about 5 mins it was howling again. I tried loosening and tightening each of the two screws in the backing plate, and I found a spot where the motor didn't scream as much, but I don't trust it. Maybe the bushing is too worn. I dunno. I believe all I need is the blower motor. The speeds all work fine, so I am guessing the resister is okay.

Thanks guys. Looks to have felt around the bushing. I’ll fill ‘er up with light oil.

My blower motor has a loud squeal. I pulled the cap off the base end of the armature and put some bearing grease on the end of the shaft. The squealing stopped for a day or two then came back. Lubed it again and got the same results. Is there a proper way to lube the armature base and cap? Wondering if I should be using a light oil instead of grease. The end of the armature isn't supported by a bearing but rather a bushing. That bushing looks to have felt surrounding it. Maybe the idea is to saturate that felt and pocket with a light oil. Not sure. Given the blower works great otherwise, I hate to toss it and shop for another. Thanks, Ken

I installed this carb on my truck a few months ago. It also was a bit finicky starting and idling. I drove it for about a month then finally got around to setting the idle mixture and high speed idle. The idle mixture screw was open much more than the recommended starting point. I set the idle mixture screw per the instructions. My high speed idle was sitting at about 1000 rpm. This required me to give a bit of extra throttle until the truck warmed up. I moved it slightly above 2000 rpm. This gave me a high enough idle that with the choke plate closed, the engine would run without having to add throttle. With these two changes, the engine now starts easily after one firm push of the throttle to close the choke plate, and it idles well without fear of stalling. As a side benefit, the dieseling I was occasionally getting when I shut off the engine went away.

@Crashtd420, Don't know anyone with a 3D printer. Thx @iceman510, I agree, I would think these wheels would use a snap in type of cap. There is room at the front hub for this type of cap to snap in. However, the rear wheel sits tight to hub all around the edge of that center bore. There would be no room for a cap to snap in unless I used some sort of spacer to pull the wheel a bit away from the hub. I do like this wheels. They definitely have the period vibe. But they would look better with some type of cap. I'll keep looking.

Thanks for all the comments Gents. Unfortunately, none of the referenced caps will work with these wheels unless I bore out the center a bit more. These wheels are about 3 15/16" ID. They also are not perfectly round. I scrolled through all the options on JEGS and didn't see any of this size. I have seen some plastic caps that snap over the center and clip onto the lug nuts, but not a fan of those. I'm not sure what the original center caps looked like for these wheels. Maybe they never had any.

Thanks @Thomas Perkins. I presume those mount from the inside with the cap thru the wheel. Where did you find those? Ken

Very cool truck, @Madkaw. You have put some time into that ol' girl. I have an 83.5 2WD King Cab in metallic brown that I have been working on since June. Mechanicals are getting close and I am currently refreshing the interior. Not sure what I am going to do to the exterior. I guess I should address the rust. I'll have to go back and look through your thread to see how you fixed the spot welds above the rear wheel wells on the bed. Yours looks great with that clean metallic brown paint. Nice work! Ken