xofit

BTW found the problem. Bolt in the distributor rotor had backed itself off and was fire #1 cyl. off constantly which explains the back fire and the pre ignition! Always check the easy stuff first 😅

Hey all, I've had bigger tires on my '78 620 for a while now and the front disc brakes do fine now but I was trying to look into if there are any good disc brake upgrades for the 620. Possibly something that I don't have to swap knuckles for, I've got a hard body and they look similar but i doubt it would be a slap and ship job if you know what I mean. Just need more stopping power at the moment cause the solid disc single pot calipers don't even have enough umphh to lock the tires any more. Appreciate it!

This motor was previously a racing motor the guy that originally built it was a little out of his mind, bored over, decked heads, and a custom ground cam 😅

Apologies for being all over the place with my info the truck just only recently came into my possession after 6 years of the motor being finished so I'm quite rusty on my info

This is wrong it has a Weber 38 DGAS apologies

Shaved head

So yes I just check/ fixed the accelerator pump and the choke is open. And yes I do believe I had them mixed around in my head but the head is also shaved so it bumped it up even higher.

Could you expand on this at all?

Doubt installation was wrong but it is possible, my father and I redid the head but i wasn't around for timing it but its been about 6kish miles since it was installed so recalling it is a lil hard for him. I'd like to keep this motor in I just hate dealing with 110 and trying to get it but its necessary for this motor due to the compression.

Also tapped on the accelerator pump and got that working again but still no start condition.

Realizing now I also forgot to mention that after trying to restart it I have been getting fire balls out of the carb... which is what lead me to believe timing had shifted in the first place.

So it does have a Weber 32/36 and we were having issues with bogging before and the belief was that the accelerator pump may have been going bad, as well as when the truck shut off it did backfire like a fucking shot gun but from my deafened ear i thought it had come from the exhaust. I also forgot to preface that this engine has somewhere in the range of 11-11.5:1 compression and runs off of a mix of 93 and leaded 110 just to prevent spark knocking. I'll dig a little farther into the accelerator pump idea though.

That's the thing the truck does NOT run now, its blowing back out of the carb and will not fully start, at most I'm getting .5-1 seconds of running before it dies. Also datzenmike this truck has already had issues with dieseling i misspoke saying backwards.

Gooood Morning everybody, another quick question for you all today I ran my L20B with a Z head swap out of gas testing the fuel gauge and when it did die it decided to do so catastrophically and diesel backwards real quick resulting in my timing chain skipping two teeth. Shown here. Any advice on resetting the timing without taking the whole front of the motor apart? I have a few ideas including taking the front sprocket off and pulling it down while keeping tension on the chain to give space and rotating the crank to move the chain back into place. Any input is appreciated and incase I don't see ya good afternoon, good evening, and good night

New to Ratsun long time user of Infamous Nissan but couldn't find anything there either. Been doing some research on this topic and it seems that the KA24E will fit with a little room to spare in my 620 however I'd like to keep the trans that is already with the motor which is the FS5W71C any ideas on if this would fit underneath the truck without opening up the trans tunnel? Not too worried about making a new trans mount just don't want to chop the interior up as it's pretty minty. Any input would be appreciated.😉