Sephakrid

I haven't had a chance to get it installed yet. I'm currently reassembling and testing the cooling system (water pump, radiator, thermostat, various hoses). Once that's done I can hopefully get down to the shop! This is the page I ordered from: https://www.steelerubber.com/rear-window-gasket-70-4830-81 The seal was in stock last month, but in my infinite wisdom I shared it with some of the 720 Facebook groups and now it's back-ordered.

Just finished the test fit on a rear window. So far so good. Of course I won't know for sure until I get down to the glass shop for installation. I also noticed that the seal is made in the U.S. according to the label.

I have the slider window, so I'm hoping this seal will fit! I noticed it also has the groove for the trim pieces.

Reviving an old thread here, but I recently came across this new listing from Steele: https://www.steelerubber.com/rear-window-gasket-70-4830-81 I'll probably buy one since I've been searching on and off over the past few months with no luck.

Make sure to check the cylinder walls before attempting a rebuild. If there's any corrosion then they'll leak even with new seals. I just finished fixing the rear drums on my 720, and the original wheel cylinders had a ring of deep pitting. People really need to change their brake fluid more often!

I finally had some time to start taking the spare carburetor apart. I was mostly interested in seeing the inside of the B.C.D.D. Here's a gallery that shows the inner and outer diaphragms as well as the bypass air control valve and vacuum control valves: https://imgur.com/gallery/TLYRhJg The outer diaphragm was in surprisingly good condition, and seems to be made out of soft fabric-reinforced vinyl (wild guess). The inner diaphragm looks to be made out of some kind of rubber.

This is a little bit off topic, but does anyone know if the rear drum brakes on the 720 have primary and secondary shoes? The FSM only gives one dimension for the lining (width, thickness, length) and there doesn't seem to be any difference when I visually inspected the shoes earlier this month.

Currently going through that right now. The rears aren't locking up, but sometimes the passenger side cable doesn't fully release which causes some drag when initially releasing the parking brake. It also sticks more on cold mornings!

Just finished installing the new line! It took two tries and my line bending pliers marred the plastic coating a bit, but at least it's a bit less unsafe now. The perspective is a bit weird, but it does clear the brake booster and rag joint. As a side note, PO apparently never bled their brakes. Every hydraulic part I've pulled off had internal pitting along the cylinder walls. What started as a single brake line replacement is most likely ending as "new brake system."

That is exactly what I was looking for! Thank you for confirming what I saw on the parts diagram. Interesting that Nissan chose to put the loop near the tee instead of the frame bracket.

40161-T3060 is for the driver's side and 40160-T3060 is for the passenger side. I only know this because I accidentally bought two passenger side lower ball joints for my 1984 2WD. After inspection I noticed "P" on the joint and double-checked the parts diagram. Fortunately, the upper ball joints are the same part number for both passenger and driver side. Anyway, I have no idea what the difference is between T3060 and 48W25. Hopefully the taper and bolt pattern/spacing are the same! For me, I've had good luck with the TRW 10422 and 10425, which are just rebranded 555 lower ball joints. Again, I only confirmed fitment against 48W25.

I think that's the lever for the choke pull-off. Apply a vacuum to the small diaphragm (silver can with a single vacuum line on the side) at the top of the carb and see if the lever moves.

Does anyone have a picture of the driver side front brake line that goes from the rubber hose to the tee? From parts diagrams I can find, it looks like there's stress-relief coil/loop close to the tee. I was originally going to put a coil closer to the firewall but there isn't a lot of room. Currently there's a line running straight from the tee to the bracket on the frame, which is definitely not correct!

I've been spending a bit of time learning about the Hitachi DFP384 carburetors so that I can swap in a replacement if my current one starts to have issues. It turns out there's quite a few varieties out there! Here are the pages from my 1984 service manual and a screenshot of a 1986 manual that someone scanned. 1984 1986 Unfortunately the ID is just an ink-stamped thing on the fuel bowl. Anyway, I'll probably make some more posts as I start taking this thing apart. Grad school apps are finally finished so I have some time to work on 720 stuff!

That's awesome! I recently picked up a 720 and while the master cylinder and brake booster are working and not leaking, I plan to line up some quality replacement parts ASAP. This really opens up my options!

Do you know what year that Frontier brake booster is from? It looks very similar to the one on my 94 Pathfinder (4WD, VG30E). Also, are you still running the MC from your 720?

That vacuum advance looks exactly like the one you see on Z24 Cardone units! 500 bucks for a Cardone reman is indeed a bit crazy!

Got the part today! https://imgur.com/EXheEG0 I'm not sure exactly how it works, though. I can apply vacuum to the small port, but it slowly loses vacuum over time. However, if I apply vacuum quickly I can feel the valve pop open for a second, then close. I need to pick up a vac gun to some more precise testing. Either way, this thing was pretty cheap!

In my search for a suitable anti-backfire valve for my 1984 truck, I started referencing some other models that may use the same valve. I was able find one on RockAuto that's for a 1984 Nissan Stanza. The two part numbers I was able to find for that year of Stanza are: 14835-D1800 and 14835-D1801. It seems that these part numbers are only compatible with 1983 trucks, but for 24 bucks I thought I'd give it a shot. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=45927&cc=1213221&pt=10192&jsn=850 I had to ship to a friend outside of CA because of Prop 65, but she said it's a genuine Nissan part with ABY79-3 on the cap. I'll confirm when I get in in the mail from her next week!

I just picked up one of the 1984 manuals. It is significantly more detailed than the Haynes manual I was using before. I think it was 45 bucks including shipping.