NicktheMillwright

Bearings wise I have found some SKF replacements, along with grease seals for the hub that are also SKF. Not the NSK OEMs but SKF is a good brand so Im not worried. The new front inner hub bearings are a slightly different design, using a more aggressive taper angle. But the inner and outer race are the same diameter along with the width which is what's important here.

Good Afternoon My 720 project is at the point where I'm restoring the entirety of the suspension and steering. I'm building a list of parts to order from Nissan (with some exceptions, more performance oriented) Here's what I have so far. Looking to cross reference - 4 Rear Shock Bushings (56119-V6000) - 8 Rear Spring Bushings (53046-01W10) - 2 Rear Lower Shock Bushings (56127-5000) - 4 Rear Spring Bushings (55045-01W10) - 4 Tie Rod Bushings (54476-01W00) - 8 Stab Link Bushings (526112-V0100) - 2 Front Shock Bushings (56127-5000) - 4 Upper Ctrl Arm Bushings (54506-B9500) - 4 Lower Ctrl Arm Bushings (54423-B9500) - 8 Stab Frame Bushings (54613-14900) - 2 Idler Arm Bushings (48544-01G00) Am I missing anything from this list? Some items Nissan doesn't manufacture but can be found on rock auto, or if I'm desperate I have the ability to re-manufacture them. Cheers

So heres what I'm going to do; Firstly I've bought a pressure testing kit for the fuel pump as I'm unsure A, the brand of this pump and B, what the pressure is. Previous owner replaced it and in not convinced its running the 2-3 psi the weber requires. Replacing it accordingly if required or adding a regulator, whichever I feel. Secondly, I've purchased both the Redline and Empi solenoids. If my 32/36 DVEG doesn't work with the redline one, I'll modify the Empi like Thomas has suggested. I have a different Weber from what I can tell, so it may work. This way I can potentially eliminate the main culprit first before installing the surefire fix/preventative measure.

1. There is no idle cut solenoid on my carb from what I can see 2. I've been killing my engine in exactly this fashion since owning the truck. Worked so far but im not happy with it. 3a. This motor starts like shit when stone cold. I have to give it a bit of gas to get going. 3b. May be the idle speed but when it's running when warm it idles fairly low. If I had to guess in the 1000 range. I'll have to get a tachometer soon. 3c. Previous owner did replace the fuel pump, not sure if it's over-pressurizing the system. Could a inline regulator be used to resolve this?

Hard to tell, truck doesn't have a tachometer

Good afternoon Title is pretty self explanatory, here's what I've tried: - Adjusted timing Resulted in a better running motor and better startup, but problem is persistent - Changed spark plugs Previous owner had the wrong plugs in the motor. Improvements in engine operation but hasn't helped the issue - Ran a liter of water through the carb to clean it. (Weber 32/36) -Adjusted idle position Nothing here is helping my issue. I haven't tried changing the carb jet, I have however cleaned the hell out or the entire system I'm out of ideals.

Afternoon everyone Bought a 720 about 2 weeks ago. It was missing its tailgate entirely including all of the mounting hardware. I have tracked down a reconditioned tailgate with a skin, but it has no handle, lock, gate stay, striker, nothing. All I have is a handle and the panel. Does anyone out there have a rotting tailgate they would be willing to part ways with? Or even able to take some measurements of existing hardware so I can re-manufacture the parts? Cheers Nick

Just out of curiosity, how much power can the 5 speed manual coupled to my 85 720 handle?

Wow that's a lot of information. Hope there's not a test later. I'll toy with this idea some more. I like that there's a plan to follow here and the parts are obtainable. Say if I wanted to go the turbo charging route, which yes would cost more. What would I need to do to prep the motor. I'm not disregarding the L series head and comp swap, I'll probably head down that route regardless. Just weighting my options

Well, sounds like I'm going to be tracking down a U67 head plus components. Know of the bat where I'd find anything locally. We are both BC boys And for clarification, all the water jets line up correctly? Did Nissan try to make this as modular as possible?

So here's what I'm getting from this very valuable information: - Aim for low rpm power and torque - Piston swap for more compression Is the L series head compatible with the Z24 block for better air flow? If it were you, would you put a turbo on this motor or keep the webber? Forgive my ignorance, just trying to make the most of this motor.

Are there any options for getting more power out of this motor without a turbo then? Swapping cams? My motor already has a 32/36 Webber on it. I'm not looking to make a monster, I would swap in a LS4 if I wanted that.

Afternoon everyone A leak down and compression test have shown I have worn rings. So while I gut this engine and have it out of the truck; what kind of turbo kits are available for the Z24? I'm looking for a modest power increase, nothing that will compromise the reliability. I dont plan to tow anything with this truck. It's going to be a show truck when it's restored Cheers Nick

It will on occasion. In my 1 week or so of ownership it has 3 times. I'll check/replace it outright to eliminate that possibility

Ended up running MT90 75w90. So far no leaks but have purchased a output shaft seal just in case. I plan to replace it in the near future. I had another question regarding the transmission. Mine seems to fight me a little to get into gear. It's not consistent but happens maybe 50% of the time regardless of speed. Is that just a characteristic of this transmission or should I strip it down and inspect?

Good afternoon everyone Im trying to figure out what sort of manual transmission fluid I can put into my 1985 720 Z24. From what I've gathered, the following are viable; All GL-4 BTW, and this is for the climate of British Columbia, Canada - Redline MT90 75w90 - ACDelco Synchromesh with Friction modifiers (Can't seem to find any locally) -Sta-Lube 85w90 (No one carries this it seems) Are there other options? 2 of the 3 on this list im having a hell of a time tracking down and MT99 75w90 seems like it may be too thin on its own. Some insight is appreciated Nick

Hey everyone Recently bought a 85 720. Looking to restore this truck to moderate standards. I have a pretty good truck to start with, having little to no rust, but at the cost of having no tailgate. Was wondering if anyone had one to sell or know of a place to acquire one. From BC, Canada Cheers