NicktheMillwright

Good Evening I figured you lot would have some information regarding axle gear compatibility. Other than my 720, I also have a first gen Frontier, which has a Rear air locker and 5.13 gears on the bench, waiting to go in. Somehow I went down a rabbit hole for LSD options for the R200A Diff, which is what this truck has in the front. I possibly have a set of Warn Manual hubs on the way, and wanted to get a front LSD installed as A, Air lockers are very expensive and B, I'm in there, might as well see if that's a viable option. Ive took to the internet looking for information and have come up with a lot of conflicting results. I know for certain that a C200 and a R200A gears and LSD are interchangeable, but not 100% on which vehicles had them. I think some years of Pathfinders (WD21) some hardbodies and maybe the 200sx, but that it. From what I also gather, spline counts differed as well, which is an issue. The R200A in my truck is 29 spline I believe. The question is two fold: 1. What parts can be interchanged with each other? 2. What cars/trucks had them? There's a lot of late 90s- early 20s Nissans in the yard right now. Thanks Nic

Would the 71C also be found in the KA24 variant of thr hardbody and pathy? Much easier to find. Wouldn't make sense in my eyes for Nissan to have a v6 only transmission.

Good evening I have recently acquired a VG30E from a Maxima. It was $100 bucks and didnt come with a transmission, but I know it was an automatic judging by the wiring harness and the gear plate on the crank. No flywheel Main question is; What manual transmissions will bolt up to this engine? I have a FS5W71B that works well, but I havent had time to pull it apart and see if it fits. Any notes on this? Thanks Nic

I'm planning to use a Holley Super Sniper 2300 2 Barrel. So I'll have to most likely TIG a 2300 flange onto the intake manifold, or make my own manifold (That will be a learning curve). Going to pull a used manifold from a scrap z24 in town and mock it up first. If not make it myself, where abouts are you located? https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/sniper_efi/sniper_2300_2bbl/super_sniper_2300/parts/550-853

Yeah I have the knowledge to make my own. I figured I'd have to anyway. No biggie. Is that an LS manifold set up for 3 2300?

Oh... fuck. So needless to say, I'm going to have to modify it... fantastic Attached is all the mounts that Holley sells and adapter plates exist. Maybe a laser cut adapter could work? carburetor_flange_guide-Copy.pdf

New question Need the carburetor flange size on a stock Z24 intake manifold. I think its 2GC Small bore, but I'm not sure. The carb I want to fit is a Holley Super Sniper which uses the 2300 2-BBL. Wondering if there's another ""Bolt on"" option or if it's easier to just modify my existing one. Point being that Holley doesn't make an EFI carb that can handle over 14.7psi of boost other than the super sniper.

Huh, you learn something new every day. I'll keep that in mind when I send the block off to get machined. Anything that'll help keep the combustion inside the chamber, especially when adding boost to a head gasket prone engine sounds like a good idea. I'm drawn to copper due to the added heat transfer benefits I'm going to take a crack at it and say that's a KA24 head you have in that photo.

That's reassuring. From my research the L and Z blocks are quite robust. I'm still going to give the headers a good wrap and invest in an electric fan conversion and definitely a oil cooler to keep those temps under control. Hood vents for extra style points for sure. Pardon my ignorance, but what do you mean by O ringing the block? Also, thoughts on a copper head gasket?

Well I've done the retorquing to my motor when I found out about that bulletin. So I'm good there. The cracking shown above doesn't seem to be structurally compromising. Cast Iron has a coefficient of linear expansion of 0.0000104in per degree Celsius, so a 7018 MR welding rod or equivalent would be effective for the kind of heat cycles a engine has to stand up too. I'm planning to gut my motor for a turbo build with forged components. So covering all my basses before ripping into it. Hoping for no cracks.

Hate to dig up this post. But how frequent did the Z24's block crack? And where about's did the cracks occur? Something about a bad batch of block castings?

Yes that would be me, among many Okay so I gave this a good read. And from what I understand, stock 720's don't benefit from LSD's However the Z24 I am building for my truck is spec'd to push 14psi of boost, so that changes things a bit Additionally I am building a 4 Link, which is why I want to get a potential axle swap or diff swap understood and on paper before I do such a thing I guess what I'm asking is, is it even worth swapping to an LSD? This truck will never be a race car, mostly for fun because we all need a project. However being able to fool around would be nice. Thanks for the info Stroff Roger that.

Mike it has just been brought to my attention that the HF37 axle code on my truck identifies it as a H190 Axle. There seems to be an LSD conversion available via Traction Concepts. The D21s and KA 1st gen Frontiers also used the H190 if I'm not mistaken? Both of which had LSD options, I know my 1st gen Fronty with the VG did not get such option. https://www.tractionconcepts.com/Nissan-H190-LSD-Conversion-Fits-H190-Open-Diffs-p/tcxni9301.htm I'm willing to bet that's a decent option if all else fails. I'll do more research

Regarding the weight. I'm trying not to add more weight that what I've taken away. Trying to add lightness and increase power. The rims I am planning on running do fit just fine, I did a test fit before pulling it. I have maybe 2mm of clearance between the caliper and the inner rim, that will be enough. Yeah that checks out with my notes. I dont know the numerber of them that where equipt with the LSD but I can't imagine it was many. I'll do some digging

I know this may be a stretch, but does anyone have information regarding the weight of the rear axle that came with the 2WD 720's? Not super keen on removing the rear end to find this information myself. But I will if I need to. The goal is to axle swap a Isuzu Rodeo rear end. Its a Dana 44, Disk brakes, 6 lug, LSD, 4 Link, and can be re-geared to 3.7. I'm guessing it weights around 200lb. I want to know If I should look for the illusive Hardbody H-190 LSD rear instead.

Alright, I'll get right on that. An oil cooler would also be a good idea. Do you happen to know where the stock oil pressure sensor went on the z24? Can't remember if it was an oil pressure or oil temp gauge the ST trucks came with.

What would you recommend I look for? I haven't bought anything just yet

Ok so I followed up and talked with a local engine tuner. So he's saying around 9:1 is the sweet spot for L20B motors and given how similar the Z and L are, forged DE pistons would be ideal. As Mike mentioned it would keep the compression around 8.8:1, so that's perfect. I did look around on Cosworth and Wiseco and both have good options available. A 3in exhaust for extra flow and a fresh source of cold air will help with pre-det. Another suggestion was to fit the largest possible intercooler I can, either air to air or air to water. For the cold air, I might take a page from Dodge's book and make a intake in place of a high beam light. Rockauto has Melling oil pumps for sale for KA motors, so I'll grab one of those.

So here's what I have noted down: - Find some forged DE pistons - Stock or moderate cam to avoid overlap - KA oil pump, that will be easy to find - EFI for more control over fuel delivery, maybe a Holley Sniper EFI 2GC Large Bore (Holleys website they are good for up to 14.7 psi of boost. - An intercooler beyond 7psi of boost (which is what I want) and this will also in theory help control pre-det If I'm going this far down the rabbit hole, maybe not a bad idea to machine a adjustable cam pully/gear? I could machine that myself if none are avaliable If I understand correctly, generally the static compression for turbo engines is around 8.0:1 to run 93 octane, while NA is 9.0:1 (Generally speaking) Pre det could be micromanaged with head gasket thickness and timing if knock becomes a problem. It would probably be in my best interest to getting touch with an engine tuner...

Good afternoon gentlemen I have some questions regarding turbo charging my z24 (Yes I did make a post a while back asling the same thing, but here im planning to update you all as I go) After various back and forth ideas regarding what I'm looking for from this truck, I've come to the conclusion I want to keep the z24. From my research I've gathered a fair bit of information, and that's left me with a few questions. (I'm not an engine builder, I'm just a Millwright) Do I need dished/Lower compression pistons or will running forged KA24E pistons, (which would raised the compression) work fine? I assume raising compression when adding a turbo is the way to go. Running ARP studs should help keep the head on. Im not concerned about having to run higher octane. Adding a longer duration cam, from what I understand, will aid in fuel air flow. However stiffer valve springs are required due to said longer duration. How would I go about figuring out which springs I need to order? *If I want to exceed 7psi of boost, would I need to run a EFI style carb (Like a Holley Sniper) to prevent complications with the fuel delivery? Beyond 7psi of boost I assume it would overcome the fuel pump and starve the engine of fuel. If I have to run an efi system, I assume I also will need a crank position sensor. I know the Z24i had one, so finding where that's located shouldn't be too difficult. Would it be worth running an intercooler alongside the turbo? And I assume running an oil cooler would be a wise idea. Thats all I can think of at the moment, I'll update this thread with progress and questions as I go. Nick

Just looking for clarification With the 3.70 diff currently in my truck, wouldn't I be technically putting more revs into a 4.625 diff if I swapped it? Therfore limiting my max speed and trading it for acceleration? And the point with the Z24 was to keep the power in the lower end for breathability because this head flows like a wet paper bag?

Yeah that was the plan with the pistons. More curiosity than anything. So at my local wrecker they have a WD Pathfinder with the 4.625 diff. What is stopping me from pulling the entire Axle and using that under the truck? I know the housing is likely different. Not that ive sought then out but I haven't seen a single 4.375 in lower mainland BC

Awesome. Thanks Mike. I may have a lead on a 46 diff but need to verify. Assuming a wide trans will bolt straight up I'll be on the hunt for one of those as well. Another question. I've replaced pistons on good motors but assuming I have to have the Cylinders bored due to wear, how would I go about sizing pistons? From my Millwright experience it's simply taking going for a "larger" piston and having each Cylinder bored it its designated piston withing tolerance. Do correct me if I'm wrong.

Once again thanks for the info Mike. So this is good news so far, I have a 32/36 already equipped and a set of KA24E pistons already in stock, so that's excellent news. When I do the full tear down I'll swap in those. Timing chain and tensioner ect ect all needs to be done. Still tracking down a water pump. The exhaust needs to be redone anyway as it has more holes than Swiss cheese, so I'll keep that information in mind as well. For the diff gear my plate reads HF37. Would the 280z gear set work in this application? Another thing is I've heard is a "Wide range" 71b tranny. Any info on that?

Hey everyone Been searching for some information about the transmission and diff specs on the 1985 z24 5 speed manual. From what I gather there are 2 versions. For the diff I'm looking for LSD options, even if that means swapping to a hardbody rear end. My goal is to keep the truck as original as possible but as good as it can be. I've also decided to keep the z24 stock, but again as good as it can be. On the fb group I saw a truck with several engine mods I want to adapt to my truck. Mainly a 272/272 cam and Weber 38 with 14mm spacer. Anything else I could do? ARP studs are also going on. Going to refrain from turboing it. Going for fun over fast. Thanks