NicktheMillwright

Ok this sounds promising. I have the one off a 200sx. Should I swap pistons while I'm at it? For the timing chain the lengths different by a whole link or half link?

Afternoon I have a z20 head and a z24 block. Knowing the issues with a z24 head with airflow ect ect. Will a z20 head work? From what I understand it will fit and needs one oil gallery hole bunged up. Same timing chain ect. If I have some machining work done to it, would it be a better alternative to the z24? Cheers

From the sounds of things a complete KA swap may be simpler, cheaper and offer more hp. The limitation being the Z transmission.

Side question, why is it critical to have the block turned 18 degrees?

Good afternoon So in April I made a post asking about turbo options for the Z24, basically its a waste of money. But reading over Mikes comment on that post. He mentioned 2 things; 1. He would throw a L20 Head on it before he would turbo it, and 2. A KA24E head will bolt on as well Lets skip 1 for now, because by chance a buddy of mine was parting out a KA24E, head and Pistons included. Online ive seen alot of people claiming that they have done it, but I cant seem to find anyone explaining how they did it. I see a major issue right off the bat. - The timing chain sprocket for the KA24E is single chain, while the Z is double, same pitch and roller diameter, and from what I can tell same length, but different sprocket. Was there a solution to this problem? Its not like you can use the z sprocket as the KA24E is Keyed in. I could use a broach and make a keyway for it, but if there is another solution that I dont know about, im all ears. The more I think about it the more im willing to try out a L head, but finding a good L20 here in BC is proving difficult to say the least. Hence why its on the back burner If anyone here has some insite to the KA head on a Z block I'm all ears. I know I could just swap the entire KA24E engine into the truck, but common, where's the fun in that?

Quick question, will the Windshield from a 1981 truck fit a 1985?

Greetings from Millwright Local #2736

This community is hilarious

At the moment I'm just looking into play in the assembly. I have access to tools to make those components relatively easily. A 5 axes CNC Mill can do a lot. Outside of that, I'm replacing seals. I'm a Millwright, this isn't anything too out of the ordinary for me. I've never had to do a power steering gear assembly, but first time for everything. The assembly is leaking out the bottom near the seal of the pitman arm. Nissan still makes those seals, so I bought all of them, and planned to replace them regardless, but while I have the assembly off, I thought prudent to check the entire thing, as I have zero intention to buy another set of seals. Those were not cheap. Had a quick look at Redhead Steering and I will say I'm pretty impressed with their shtick. But from what I can see, excluding Toyota, they don't touch anything non American, I may be wrong, I hope I am, because I would be sending my piece to them instead. Sent them a quote, we will see what I get back.

Afternoon gents Is it at all possible to get a PDF copy of the revision 1 service manual for the 1985 Nissan 720? If not, anyone who does have one, Could I get any relevant information about the Steering Gear assembly, as I'm going to be rebuilding it and need to know any torque specs, if any. Ive found diagrams online but I need more information to not make any unnecessary mistakes

Good Afternoon So a chance conversation with a friend has me purchasing a 510 from a buddy of his for a very good price. 84000km, 1 owner, no body rust, green on green, 4 door and an automatic my woman can drive. It's a good deal. Now the part I'm here for, I know nearly nothing about the 510's. I have a picture of the chassis plate attached. Main questions: -Mechanical things I should look for - Transmission gearing if at all possible. Haven't driven the thing just yet so I'm not sure how many gears it has. - This car had the L20 in it. Does the L16 share parts? Rockauto only has the 1.6 listed to choose from - Should I leave it green lol Just looking for some advice. The plan is road worthiness first, restoration second. Thanks Nick

Afternoon gentlemen Ihave done alot of work to my engine, I have resolved my previous run on issue and have the engine running WAY smoother. Learning the ins and outs of the carburetor has been extremely entertaining to say the least. Maybe this is my lack of experience with carbureted engines showing, but even after all that work, the motor is starting up like their is already something combustible within the cylinder that just needs a bit of a spark. This truck starts up better than my Mini Cooper does with ECI, like, the first crank better. It's making me a bit suspicious. What I'm getting at is, are my suspicious correct in assuming there may still be unburnt fuel in the engine, and would there be a way to test/prevent this? A thinking thats contradictory, the fact that if there was something combustible, it would have gone off and kept the motor running until there isn't anything left, like what happened with the run on. Input is welcome, regardless if I'm an idiot or not. Nick

Ok this is good information. I put in an order with them so we will see what comes up. While I have you all here and we are talking about steering, what power steering fluid do you guys use?

Afternoon gentlemen Simple question, for the 2WD 1985 720, the Pitman arm is part number 48502-09W00. Is this part the same as the Pitman arm for the 4WD models or am I on crack? Everywhere I look for aftermarket arms, its advertised for the 4WD no the 2WD. I've been forced to buy a new pitman and idler arm as both mine have bushings that are presenting play in the steering, and I cant track down a set of OEM or decent aftermarket replacement bushings. The arms themselves are fine. Nick

Afternoon everyone Trying to vaguely figure out what parts the 4WD and RWD 720's share. I know the transmission and transfer case are different, but other than that im unsure. Incite would be appreciated

All good. Just let me know. Not exactly like it's going anywhere

Joe I have access to a brand new re-manufactured tailgate. I can have it shipped to you. It's painted with black powder coat primer. Only issue is it has absolutely no hardware to mount the gate with. So you will need to get that. I also can re-manufacture and source a vast majority of the running gear and interior components.

Ok so I have solved the issue thanks to our resident Weber guru, Thomas Perkins. I took your advice, bought both solenoids and pulled the Jet and retaining O-ring off the weber and put it on the Empi. Works like a charm, I didn't have to adjust the Carb much, maybe a 1/8th turn in the idle mixture, and the truck shuts off perfectly. No more killing it with the assistance of the clutch. Thank you all

I fix industrial equipment for a living. My relationship with my boss is pretty good and I have free range to the shops equipment on weekends and after hours. This includes a blast cabinet, parts cleaner and ultrasonic cleaner. I also have some connections with a company who does powder coating so I can prep the hardware and then send it to them for a lot less than what's typical. Still looking for a space to totally strip the truck down but one thing at a time

Full restoration. Body off frame and sealing the frame myself. Cheaper that way. But I'm just working through the mechanical items first before cosmetics while I find a place of strip the truck down. I want to gvie the engine a modest boost in power. I've decided to go the turbo route.

100% They are on that list

This is my lack of knowledge coming through on older setups. Will I need to find a shorter shock when lowering this truck or should I simply get the lowering blocks and adjust the torsion bar? Or a combination of both?

See this is why I like to cross check information with people who know better as to just ordering things willy nilly. Mike do you have a exploded diagram of the 2wd 85 720's suspension on hand? For context this truck had been sitting for more than a few years, and most of the rubber undercarriage components have started to disintegrate. Kaltire declined an alignment due to the nearly nonexistent ball joints in the steering. In terms of reputable shock brands, who should I go with. My knowledge is limited. My intention is to give this truck a roughly 2 inch drop with a bit of stance but one thing at a time. Not adding bolt on flairs but would like to fill the wheel well.