dimitrisprophet

Update: setting the valve lash to .010 hot made a large difference. Still a slight tick, but it is miles better than what it was before. Thanks!!

Thank you king rat 🙂 As always, you're awesome. I'll check the EGR crossover pipe for a leak. Based on the hours and hours of time you've spent listening to running Z24s, how does the one in the video sounds to you?

Hello all, I have owned this 720 for a little over a year. When I first purchased, it was neglected and in a non-running condition. Once I got it running again, I noticed that the stock carb was trash, and the exhaust was rusted completely through at the lowest section of the header, so it was obnoxiously loud. A 32/36 Weber and a custom exhaust with a Mangaflow later, and things are much more manageable, although now I can actually hear the engine. I am hearing a persistent ticking sound coming from the head (maybe towards the back), that is based on RPM. This is not a knocking sound, and the only thing I could compare it to would be hydraulic lifter tick, which is not possible for a Z24. Upon start up (with or without choke), there is no tick, but after 2 minutes the ticking will slowly develop and get louder until resting at a certain volume until the engine is turned off. While driving, the ticking is honestly not loud enough to be concerning, but definitely loud enough to be audible, and you can hear it better while in lower gears. I have adjusted the valve lash while the engine was hot, this did not impact the ticking at all. I changed the oil, and that seemed to make the ticking a little less raspy, but it's still there. I have not done a compression test yet to check for a head gasket leak, but the oil and water are not mixing. I know the Z24 is notorious for blowing the gasket in between the 3rd and 4th cylinder, so could that cause a ticking sound like I'm describing? The ticking has zero impact on how the truck accelerates, and I do not feel a loss of compression or missing while driving. What else could this possibly be? The timing chain looks fine, and does not have excess play, and I have not replaced the chain, so to my knowledge the tensioner is still locked in place. I did notice that there may be an exhaust leak coming from the exhaust manifold or gasket, could that cause what I'm describing? The sound is getting to be annoying, and I'm starting to get concerned that there is a deeper issue I need to address, but I don't want to pull the head without reason. Anyways, I appreciate all of your wisdom in advance, here is a video I took where you can hear the ticking:

These wheel studs are what I think im going with. They are for a: 1993-1995 Infinity J30 1993-1998 Nissan Quest 1988 Nissan Van Stock knurl is . 505 and these are .508 so I think they should fit in the hub, and are approximately 13mm longer than stock. I got the idea from This guy. Will order and update after install.

The stock wheel studs are tiny, and the thread engagement on anything besides the stock wheels are pitiful. Where are you all finding extended studs with the correct knurl size?

Sorry to raise this post from the grave, but do you recall where you got the wheel studs? I'm assuming you had to get extended studs for the spacers

Happened with my 96 Miata. Cyl 1 plug kept popping out so I tapped and did a helicoil. Nerve wracking but pretty easy. Bunch of metal shavings but I just left the plug out and ran it for 2 seconds with 3 cyl and it shot all the shavings out like a glitter bomb. Never had any issues with it by the time I sold it

'83 720 Just installed a 32/36 Weber (Love it already) and in the process I noticed that I am missing the ground wire for the intake manifold. Looking at pictures I took before the install, I found that it wasn't even attatched in the first place! Before the install, my temp and gas guages didn't work. After the install, the guages are somehow working? But also the turn signals don't work now?? Not sure if this has anything to do with the intake manifold ground. Either way, does anyone has a diagram for the ground wiring? I tried feeling around but couldn't find a loose wire so I'm hoping I can follow a wire to it

Like I mentioned in the previous reply, I removed the line and blocked off the ports you're referring to. This was the only way that I could get it to start and not rev away. I have the carb half torn apart and it looks like the fast idle cam was indeed sticky, and the float was sticky too. At this point I'm honestly not interesting in putting any more time or effort into fixing the stock carb just so it can idle fine and still run shitty so I'm going for a Weber now

I believe you found the culprit. The fast idle cam is sticky and when I manually turned it fully counter clockwise, the throttle did not effect/reset the cam. I'm not sure if the spring on the back of the plastic came undone or what, but I pulled the carb off this morning and plan on tearing it apart, cleaning it, and inspecting for missing or broken parts. If all parts are not broken and accounted for, do you believe that cleaning it and putting it back together would solve this sticking issue? I don't really want to pull the trigger on a Weber quite yet if I can help it

So I did some messing around and put wd-40 on basically every exterior moving part on the carb. Here is a video of startup, and I didn't touch the gas to set the choke before starting. https://imgur.com/a/ISW4PTW You can see the choke gets pushed open, so much to the point where it was revving way too high. I turned it off as soon as it hit about 3k because it didn't seem like it was going to stop going up. So I plugged off the vacuum line like this to prevent the choke from touching the trottle. This caused the engine to run like dog water, but it wasn't revving away and actually idles right at 2k. Adjusting the idle screw had no effect. Because of this, should I still drill the rivets off the choke and clean/adjust it? Or is there another way of coming at this besides plugging the vacuum line?

Would the choke not connected or adjusted wrong cause it to WOT on startup? Can I test this by unplugging the choke?

I'm starting to think the choke isn't working at all. The trottle will open it a little, but it doesn't move at any point after. The trottle doesn't seem to be getting stuck, and with the trottle plates closed + choke closed, it still acts like I'm flooring it as soon as it starts. Here is a video I took showing the carb and how it acts on startup. It doesn't usually sputter like that but it probably had too much gas in the carb. Also I manually turned it off because I thought it would go all the way past 6k if I let it. Also there is an exhaust leak at the headers so it sounds a little ratty

'83 king cab Z24, stock carb with every vacuum port plugged off besides the brake booster and distributor vacuum advance. To start I usually pump the gas 1-3 times before starting. It will always start right up, and will occasionally idle around 1.1k, while other times sitting at 2-2.5k. The idle never drops no matter how long I let it idle or drive, and it always sticks to whatever it initially got to on startup. Tonight I went out to get gas, it idled perfectly at 1k and drove fine. However, when I left the gas station and gave it 3/4 trottle (could be more but I didn't feel the pedal touch the floor), the idle started spiking up past 4k. I had to constantly turn it off at lights and quickly engage the clutch after starting again just to get home. I am planning on getting a Weber in a few weeks, but how can I fix/prevent this in the meantime?