22350

There are some online threads with crossovers for parts in that range of engines. I got my pistons from ebay. You will need to get your engine apart, before you know what sizes you need for pistons and bearings. There is also a vendor in northern california who does complet rocker rack restoration for a couple hundred dollars ROCKER ARMS UNLIMITED Here is a link to the internet archive of the parts crossover (make sure to scroll down): CLICK THIS FOR PARTS Some limited stuff is available from forklift shops. There is some real specific notes on the valve guide seals. You can use modern ones for the intake, but the exhausts have to have the lose old style, which passes a bit more oil

Hey guys. I was having an issue with the rear seal on my new engine. I would have bet the house that the rope seal we put in was correct I looked through the threads and it is repeated over and over that the seal they are using is 3/8". I have attached a picture of the Best Gasket 3/8" rope seal and the groove it is going in, which is .234". That's not going in, but the groove is 3/8" deep. Also, the previous seal appeared to have too much clearance. Was able to get a feeler gauge in there Does anyone have a part number or description to get for this seal?

Are the rope seals that you have used the square graphite impregnated seals?

So is the roadster seal the same as the e1? Some are saying 3/8" graphite rope, but it is square and the roadster one doesn't appear square. Could it be the same as the jaguar?..... This image is from another build but it appears to be a roadster seal set

So, my E1 has less than 1000 miles on it. Everything is new. I have been struggling with an oil leak, which was messing with the clutch. We pulled the transmission "AGAIN" and ran the engine to find where it was really leaking from. It is the rear crank seal. The motor has a rope seal on the rear and it went in very well on the rebuild. Does anyone have any advice on what steps can be taken on the replacement, so that we are not just pulling everything out and putting back together for more leaking? What rope seals are you folks using? Is there a difference?

I finally gave up and pulled them. Turns out that there was a fray inside the right side housing. Having new ones made.

Truck is back together with all new front suspension. Makes a difference. Brakes are much better with greased brake cable housings Is it possible for this spring to be weak? Also, do the 521 Rear brake cable & housing fit the 320?

Here is the oil leak photos

Ok I need some internet magic... I have the suspension apart and have all the parts in hand, but have a couple of questions on that. 1. Does the tortion adjusting bolt pivot. (see picture) 2. How do the rubber dust covers get on to that part? The second issue is the damn oil leak. Pulled the clutch and tranmission rear plate. Oil doesn't appear to be making it to the clutch, but between the plate and engine it is everywhere. points of note: 1. Mechanic overfilled the engine by over a quart 2. Transmission plate gasket is wet all the way around, but from the outside. 3. Rear engine seal doesn't appear to be leaking 4. We can't find any oil dripping down from the top Could a leak in the oil pan gasket be getting "sucked up"? is there some sort of place, at the top of the engine that would leak if overfilled? OIL LEAK PHOTOS IN REPLIES Thanks guys.

Les Cannaday in Vista CA

found!!

Hello everyone. Looks like the only part I don't have is the left outer tie rod. Anyone have one kicking around?

When you say "rear axle" ... the truck wouldn't roll when put in nutral, if the differential was broken, or am i missing something?

We should have a pretty good idea, once we get the transmission out. At least it is happening at the same time as suspension