Beowulf

Going to machine shop tomorrow, keeps telling me he’s 6 months out. And I get the same answers at all the shops. Can’t do a drop off to get it in line as they don’t want to be tripping over it. Only like 3 shops in my area. At rate this is going I’ll be dead before I can get it done. 

Evening all.  Been a while since I posted, still out here fighting my cancer. Anyway most body work is done and want to rebuild motor. Looking for recommendations on rebuild kits, and if any knowledge on Schneider cams.. Not race spec-cam, something close to factory if I need a new one.  Anyway hope all are well, thanks for info.Greg

12 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Also, it's not a bad idea to bleed it again in a month or so, after you get some heat into it and exercise it a bit. If the fluid is still dirty at that point, you may want to flush it again.

Thanks didn’t think of that 

Will do thanks, going to do it in sections. Then replace soft lines, calipers and wheel cylinders. Definitely want it safe as it’s going to grandson as first vehicle. Doing suspension parts the same way

5 hours ago, jagman said:

Looks like you need to remove and replace your master cylinder in order to clean the lines. I would remove the lines from the wheel cylinders for the first cleaning and clean them separately or just bite the bullet and replace with new after the lines are clean.

Got a new master cyl, clutch and slave cylinders. Just trying not to get crap into the new wheel cylinders and calipers when I install 

On 11/5/2021 at 7:52 PM, jagman said:

Before you remove the master cylinder drain the master cylinder of old fluid and fill with break clean.  Push the cleaner through the system. You may want to do this twice, and then disconnect the wheel cylinders  to empty them if you plan to rebuild them.  Disconnect all brake lines to let the cleaner evaporate and refill the cylinders with clean brake fluid.  The cleaner in the brake lines needs several days to evaporate from the low areas.

Problem being this is what the master cylinder is full of

Just now, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I always blow out with compressed air. Even then, sometimes there is crud in the lines, but how do you clean that crud? Very small gerbils...

I would have thought small ferrets would work better 😆

Any suggestions for cleaning the brake lines before I install the new master cylinder, calipers and rear brake cylinders. Want to clean out the old fluid that’s been sitting in these lines for 15 years. Thought of using air pressure to blow through the lines to clear old fluid by disconnecting at the old master cylinder.  but cleaning the lines?  

Probably been gone over but figured what the heck.  Here’s a parts list of what I used to get bigger disc brakes on my 79 620.

started with finding 1994 D21 hardbody spindles, mine were complete with old rotors so I did not need inner/outer bearings. Most parts came from Rock Auto.

Rotors Raybestos  RS 9920R

Calipers, Re-man with brackets and pad clips. Raybestos  RS FRC3752 left

“.                 “.                                                         Raybestos. RS FRC3751 right
Centric semi metallic pads.  CE 102.02660

Centric Brake hose frt left  CE150.42026

From NAPA.  Rear Rotor bearing seal pt# 21045

That being said no part number for the right hose as I ordered one for a 4wd and may not work.

I will be selling my old (1979) factory spindles-for anybody looking to move from drums for front disc. Will ship with calipers if some one wants as since they been sitting for 15 years probably only good for core returns 

Hope this may help someone.

35 minutes ago, MikeRL411 said:

 

Surly ?  Cheer up.

What the H…….. forgot my H lol…..    Chemo brain they call it

1 hour ago, RustedRails said:

Coming together nicely @Beowulf! Love the tailgate! Every time I see a Gulf logo it reminds me of my childhood haha.

Not sure on the grill, Are they all 4 the later style (78-79)?

3 are the same and matched the headlights on the truck. Trying the different one,  the one the grandson likes I had to dig through all the parts that came with the truck to find different headlight mounts. They’re further apart than the others. And thanks for the positive comment, slowly but surly.  

Test fitting panels and finding bolt holes with sheared off bolts. Drill on the next warm day we have. Looking pretty good.

I have like 4 grills and one is different as the vertical bars are further apart and had to change headlight buckets to make it fit. Any one know what year that would have been? 

It really does exists! 😂😂😂😂

56 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

The stock set up is proven to work and generally bullet proof and easy to work on. Why mess it up with home made engineering?

Like I mentioned Mike was just a crazy thought. I’ve done nothing to hack up this truck. Wondered if it had been done, if it could work, was there any benefit if it had worked for someone.

days when my cancer has me down I watch the shows and wonder what could be done to make it unique without butchering it.

as alway thanks Mike

1 hour ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

tell grandson to ruin another vehicle instead

Calm down , one i was wondering if it could be done and if it would work. He’s 13 and was asking about bagging it.  I’m happy he’s even interested in this old truck to work on it with me. Get his hands dirty and learn more then video games. 

I was just wondering if something like this would work. Think you could easily adjust ride height with the coil overs. 4 links would hang down so far on stock frame and 3link would require fuel tank being moved. Didn’t think about axel wrap. Like I said when I can’t work on the truck I think of nutty stuff, might be the 13 meds a day I take for my cancer.😁. Anyhow thanks for the input y’all.  

20 hours ago, mklotz70 said:

rockauto.com is a great resource for looking up this kind of info.  According to them, all the '98 and up Frontier calipers were two piston.  The rotors and calipers from 12/85 thru 1997 are the same. After '94, RA just lists "Pickup" and doesn't call it a Frontier until '98. They also don't call it a D21 after '94.

 

11/85 and older were 720....the calipers are the same but the rotors had a shorter top hat. I can't see the top hat in this pic very well, but they look like they have the taller hat.  I have pics on this page that will show the differences and the year breakdowns for 620/720/HB rotors.  http://www.bluehandsinc.com/hub-info.html

 

If you're looking to swap these onto a ball joint 620, they should be fine.  

Thank you, I’ve got all new ball joints and look to be the same as what in on the truck spindles now. Just want to be able to get new rotors, seals, and calipers or kits

On days I’m not up to working I think of stuff and really shouldn’t lol.  My grandson asked me about bagging the truck and there’s no money I pops budget for that.  But got me thinking back in the old gasser days some used half leaves on the front. Wonder what would happened if you cut a set of leaf springs say 3” beyond the the perch mounts. Drilled another hole to bolt the springs together a second time for safety. Used a panard bar to keep rear from walking side to side and coil overs for height adjustment and rebound. Think it would work and also help handling?

Just crazy thoughts 😵‍💫

Thanks Mike

I bought used spindle and brake assemblies back when I first got the truck wanting to go with bigger brakes. Well a year later and health set back I’ve just got them out to rebuild and can’t remember the year of the brakes. They’re Frontier single piston and only numbers on rotor is 210467-C and WF2.  Want to get new rotors and calipers kits.
any help out there?

Evening all.  Guy I got the 620 is bugging me about getting the rest of the parts that came in our deal. Is there any market for the 4 speed trans for these trucks, about 7 doors compete with glass and two more motors, two differentials one with bad gears. And a crap load of small stuff I need to go through. Any idea what any of the trans and motors are worth if anything cause they’ve all been sitting for years. Could use some cash for this project.

4 hours ago, yenpit said:

 

$37 for a GAS TANK?  Link or it never happened!! 😉  I don't see a gas tank listed on rockauto for a 1980 720.................what vehicle were you looking up?

Search Dorman 576807, on Rock auto.  Tank will be here Tuesday from Amazon. They mis priced it or something cause it’s showing 169.99 now. When I ordered it , it said one left. After ordering it I looked again making sure I ordered the right thing and now it says temp out of stock.

Well think I got a heck of a deal on new gas tank. Googled the part number and one of the places was Amazon so I clicked on it to see and bought it $37.10 with free shipping!!!!!!!! Looks  identical except 1/4”fitting next to filler is straight not 90 degree. 720 pickup tank

9 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Yes. The early regular cab 720 2wd and 4x4 have a similar tank, all under the bed. Was suggesting if you want a larger tank the 720 KC has a notch cut out of the top front to fit under the cab slightly but you would have to move the front frame mount farther forward.

Got ya , miss read your advice. Thanks as always

This tank mounts to the frame, but none of it goes under the cab. It’s all under the bed, it a like 12.7 gal tank