Goosie_the_xiii

Thank you all that helped with this issue. I finally got the CAN/AM to light up and also have the original fuse box wired up! With the advice from @fiveoneO and @yenpit on the different harnesses, I was able to wire mine up to match what is under the dash and now the three relays light up. I also have headlights running but I will have to go back and check on those later on. This has been months in the making but little progress like this definitely helps keep the build and motivation going. Thanks, @Stoffregen Motorsports, @KELMO, @Icehouse, and @banzai510(hainz) for giving me advice as well along the way. Your advice did not go unnoticed. LFG!!!

@fiveoneO & @yenpit Thanks for the wealth of knowledge! This information is exactly what I needed to know. I'm not sure what year the engine harness is. I bought the car and parts after it was painted. The body harness (tail, cabin, and dash) was still in the car. The only harness that was removed was the engine harness and the bay was painted. So I am taking someone else's clutter and trying to put it back together. Nothing was tagged. But knowing there are multiple harnesses within that same body style throughout the years helps. Also, all the tags on the harnesses were weathered and caked on with grease and dirt. I ended up taking the old tape off to see where the wires were running.

@Stoffregen Motorsports copy. So my issue right now is that from that diagram, it shows the BW wire at the under-dash connector (by the passenger door) is connected with a BY wire. Now from looking, the corresponding BW wire leads to the fuse box. When I turn the key to the on position, I have no power to the BW wire in the fuse box. I do, however, have power to the BY wire that runs across the engine bay to the "washer motor". It seems like for me to get power to the fuse box, I will need to cut and reconnect those wires to the wires they "should" correspond with. I have a spare harness, it is a little mangled, but if I were to plug it in, the BW would connect with the BW under the dash. I am just not sure if anyone else has had issues with wiring not being the same from one harness to the next.

@Stoffregen Motorsports That white wire is a hot wire. I have power in that area of my fuse box. It's the second column from the left, the last terminal. So I know I have power there. Just not sure where the power for the other ones on the top right get power.

Copy. Thank you.

@Stoffregen Motorsports This is the diagram that I have been using. I only see two fusible links, the alternator (W& RW) and the fuse box (BW). I still have the engine bay harness running through the bay since it has the lights, wiper, alternator, and starter.

@KELMO Thanks for the photos. Since you have a wagon, Could you look at the connectors under the dash to see if your BW wires line up together at the connector? I imagine it's the same, but I haven't done any research on the comparison of wagons to sedans.

I need a little help. I have been chasing wiring gremlins for a few months now and finally have the time to sit down and look. I've got a couple of questions, and hopefully y'all can help me. 1. Can someone take a photo of the back of their stock 510 fuse box? I am not getting power to terminals 1, 2, 3, 5, 6, & 7. I want to make sure they are in the right place (picture attached). Backstory: (Bare with me) I bought a dime roller a couple of years ago and have slowly been working on it. The previous owner stripped it, painted it, and never put it back together after painting it. Since then, I swapped a KA24DE and trans, and now I am getting around to the wiring. I have a Wiring Specialties S13 harness for the motor. I ordered it so long ago, and at the time, I did not get the KA24DE Datsun harness that they sell. Since the order was so long ago, they wouldn't take the return or trade for the Datsun harness. Through some research on the forums, I found that I could use the JBC CAN/AM fuse box and the original 510 wiring harness in combination with the s13 harness. So I now have the JBC CAN/AM fuse box that I have been trying to connect to, but still not able to get power to the box. I have been having issues for the past couple of months. After searching the forums and talking to some of the members and Jeff, I got a lot of advice but was still not able to get power. I replaced fusible links (just in case), checked fuses, and bought a multimeter and a test light. Following IceHouse's diagram for the KA swap, I have been chasing this B/W wire issue for a few months. I was not getting power to the B/W wire in the engine bay harenss connected to the 510 fuse box when the key is on. I purchased a new ignition assembly, tried again, but still no power. Now having time to sit down and dive in. I checked under the dash where the engine harness connects with the dash harness. With the test light and the battery connected, when the key is in the ON position, there is power to the B/W wire coming from the IGN. But there is still no power to the B/W in the engine compartment or the B/W connected to the original 510 fuse box. Diving deeper, I see that the engine harness wire (female plug) that it connects is B/Y. Following that B/Y wire, it runs into the bay, across the front to where the wiper motor should be (per diagram). That B/Y wire has power when the key is turned to the ON position and no power when the key is OFF. So now I see that the B/W (from the IGN) doesn't match up with the B/W going to the original 510 fuse box. I am not sure if a previous owner tried to repin the harness or not. I compare the harness in the car to a spare harness that came with the car (which looks like it has seen better days). That harness is different as well, but the B/W would connect in the correct place. The spare harness B/W would lead to the B/W on the original 510 fuse box. So, my second question is, has anyone had issues with wires on the factory harness not being in the factory spot (per diagram and possibly an unmolested harness)? If you have had this issue with the wires not being correct, did you rewire and repin through the connectors or did you just cut the wire, put new terminals on the ends and connect them individually (outside of the plug)?

Alright, this is what I'm working with. Here are some photos of the original harness Here is the fuse box and the wiring coming off of it. ^ The white wire off the fuse block. It plugs into the W/R and the W. It looks like whoever did it also spliced a W/R wire off the W wire. It runs to the alternator. ^ I followed both of them through the harness and they both come out here. ^ The W was spliced and a piece of wire was added to lengthen this connector. ^ The W and the W/R (from picture 2) meet at the alternator. ^

@banzai510(hainz) I have the black and yellow plugged in the starter solenoid. Ans this is the current rat's nest of wiring I am working with. The Black/White is spliced and ran back to the fuse box. But I found the ign coil last night and Jeff mentioned using that. So temporarily, I placed that wire back on the spliced wire to see if It would close the circuit.

The fuse that is circled is a 70a fuse. I spoke with Jeff last night. And he had me go back to the box to make sure things weren't touching. The power terminal to the box shifted slightly and it was touching the casing on the fuse box. It seems like that was shorting out the 70a. I trimmed the cable terminal to make sure there was enough clearance (and give) for when I reinstalled. After making that modification, the 70a is not blowing when putting the positive terminal on the battery. However, I am still not receiving power to the fuse box. I looked at a 510 wiring diagram and traced the black and white wire to the ignition coil. Jeff mentioned using that for the fuse box. But still not having any luck. I am checking on a starter and alternator today. Since I am not sure how the motor was in the previous hands, I am going to eliminate any other issues.

@banzai510(hainz) The fuse is a mini ANL fuse. With some of the other research I have done, others mention utilizing it as the fusible link. I will check the OHM, not sure if I currently have one so I will have to check. I have a regular battery cable going to the starter and then I have the power being jumped from the terminal.

@banzai510(hainz) As soon as I place the positive on the terminal it blows. I had to remove everything from where it was but this is how it currently is while I am troubleshooting. I have the power to the positive terminal. I moved my battery ground to see if it would have a better connection. I also went back and made sure all the bolts were tight and not loose.

@banzai510(hainz) Yes, both harness are in there there the stock chassis harness and also the Wiring Specialties harness for the engine. I have the positive running from the battery terminal to the fuse box. Would the stock chassis have any interference with the WS chassis (minus the black/white)? I reached out to Jeff but haven't heard back so looking else where for assistance. @iceman510 I'm check to see. At this point, I just want to check to make sure I can get power to the box to make sure I have everything laid out correctly.

Thank you. I purchased a stock Auto S13 engine and did the manual swap. I was told it was running, but you know how it is nowadays. I am trying to make sure I have power to the CAN/AM fuse box. The fuse that is blowing is the fusible link (70 AMP ANL fuse) off the positive terminal.

I appreciate the response.

Hey everyone, I am currently having some issues with wiring a KA in my dime. I purchased the JBC Can/AM fuse box and followed the diagram. Every time I go to attach the battery, the fuse blows. I have gone through three so far. I am using the Wiring Specialties s13 KA harness, WS 5-point universal gound, and the CAN/AM fuse box. I also have the stock 510 chassis harness and I made sure that was grounded as well. My main task right now is to make sure I am getting power the the fusebox, but I can't do so with the mini ANL fuse blowing every time. Thoughts?

Thanks for the link. I got some out. I took a 2 foot paint stirring stick and tried to scrap some out. I got some clumps. I did not put any rocks or chain inside. I did pressure wash it, and it barely made a dent. I am going to try the acid today.

Took the gas tank out of the dime and there was about 1- 1 1/2 gallons of gas in the tank. Not sure how long it had been sitting there for, but there is about 1 - 2 inches of sludge. I am currently trying to clean it up. I tried baking soda and vinegar and also tried Simply Green to see if that would work. So far I have not had any success. I recently read about muriatic acid, and that is my next step to see if I can clean this tank up. In case I am not able to get it into a good working shape, are there any good replacement gas tanks on the market? All the used ones I see are going for upwards of $800.

Thanks

I just recently dropped in a KA24DE in the dime. I have seen CX Racing has a radiator that fits this set up. I have looked and have found a bunch of different types but wanted to see what kind some of y'all are running? Post a pic if you can.

Thank you. I will check it out tomorrow.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/RmrHuityqGad1xCy8

Hey everyone, I need some help with trying to get my horn back working. I looked under the dash and the previous owner has a rats nest of wires. It looks like they spliced the green wire from the horn. The new color is a pale green. I traced it through the dash and running up the steering column and under the steering column plastic. Then... it stopped. Seemed to have been cut or not attached. I have already switched out the steering wheel and have a quick release hub. I just can't seem to find where this green wire would be attached. I have looked at 2 different wiring diagrams but still lost on where the wire from the horn runs. I did notice that there was a black and green wire that seems to not be attached as well. Can anyone take a photo to let me know where the green wire runs and connects to and what the black and green wire connects to? Thanks. **I seem to be having trouble uploading the photos.