TommyBsolid

I may have to bring it over to get a second opinion. I’d take a second look at your XT turbo to see how it sizes up to this one. I definitely wouldn't want to put in all the work just to find out I can‘t make boost. I was thinking maybe find a VW 1.9 TDI turbo at a junk yard

Searched a few keywords to see if I could find info on what rpm this turbo reaches full boost at. https://www.stinger-performance.com/faq.html Taking a second look at the power/torque curve above, you can kind of see the spool up to around 3000, hitting max boost at 2000rpm under load should be no problem. If it doesn’t work I can always go with a smaller turbo. I’m just gonna send it.

It’s a 2.3 Liter from a 1984~ Ford Mustang SVO. It’s gas but the engine has similar characteristics being from the same era as the SD’s. Redline on those engines was 5000~, our diesels make max HP at 4000. Not too far off, heres a power torque curve of the Mustang. I think since the diesel has more torque lower in the rpm range it wont have trouble spooling the turbo under load. Do you know the redline of the SD series? I don’t have a tachometer on mine

Came across a 2.3 liter Turbo posted on OfferUp , picked it up last night. It’s a Garret .63 Turbine & .60 Compressor aspect ratios. Came off a Ford Mustang SVO. This seems well sized for the SD engines, looks like it could make a ton of boost. Album:https://ibb.co/album/eD5SJv

My transmission started to make quite a bit of noise while in neutral clutch out. Talked with wayno and he helped me figure what it is, must be a bearing wearing out. I’ve decided not to push my luck and go ahead with taking it out and repairing it. I just got done taking it out this evening and boy was it a learning experience. Everything was going smooth until it came to actually dropping the gearbox. Without rotating the box there was no where near enough space for the bellhousing to clear the clutch. Because the crossmember (the one the center driveshaft bearing sits on) is part of the frame, this means you have to angle the box forward pivoting on the crossmember. I took a good look and figured if I rotate the box counter clockwise (from driver perspective) having the starter location on the bottom of the box it might give me enough room, it worked and i’m almost certain this is the intended way of removing/installing the transmission. Though the reason it worked isn’t all because of the starter position, its because it gave me much more clearance having the shifter fork sideways instead of banging straight up on the underside of the floor panel. To clear things up this is an SD22 (starter is on the left side of the engine (driver’s perspective) This is a manual 5 speed I’m curious if you have to do the same on the Z engines?

Recently bought a 1985 720 ST Z24, has a coolant leak and smokes like a chimney. I got to pulling the head off today to see whats up. No doubt the head gasket is blown, the oil has mixed with coolant so much its become thick like molasses. What has me scratching my head is it seems cylinder 3 is the only one affected by coolant making its way into the combustion chamber. The intake valve on #3 is covered in coolant, the chamber clearly has been burning coolant by looking at the head, the spark plugs are fouled. But this chamber seems to be the only one compromised. I can see coolant passages running through the intake directly under the runners, though I'm not too sure on how its piped. I'm guessing Nissan designed the intake this way in an attempt to raise the intake air temp to promote a more complete combustion in an effort to reduce emissions? I see 2 pipes coming off the radiator, lower one to the water pump which is attached to the block, upper one to the thermostat which is attached to the intake, and then a coolant pipe coming strait from the block to the center of the intake. This has got to be the strangest design I've seen so far. Any experienced veterans care to fill me in on what Nissan was thinking I appreciate it 🙂 Cylinder 3 intake runner, the others were dry. The hose directly in between 2&3 is attached to the coolant pipe coming off the block. Ive got big plans for this truck, its got a bright future 😎

Recently bought a 1985 720 ST Z24, has a coolant leak and smokes like a chimney. I got to pulling the head off today to see whats up. No doubt the head gasket is blown, the oil has mixed with coolant so much its become thick like molasses. What has me scratching my head is it seems cylinder 3 is the only one affected by coolant making its way into the combustion chamber. The intake valve on #3 is covered in coolant, the chamber clearly has been burning coolant by looking at the head, the spark plugs are fouled. But this chamber seems to be the only one compromised. I can see coolant passages running through the intake directly under the runners, though I'm not too sure on how its piped. I'm guessing Nissan designed the intake this way in an attempt to raise the intake air temp to promote a more complete combustion in an effort to reduce emissions? I see 2 pipes coming off the radiator, lower one to the water pump which is attached to the block, upper one to the thermostat which is attached to the intake, and then a coolant pipe coming strait from the block to the center of the intake. This has got to be the strangest design I've seen so far. Any experienced veterans care to fill me in on what Nissan was thinking I appreciate it 🙂 Cylinder 3 intake runner, the others were dry. The hose directly in between 2&3 is attached to the coolant pipe coming off the block. Ive got big plans for this truck, its got a bright future 😎 EDIT: moving this post to a new thread: https://ratsun.net/topic/76978-z24-naps/

I ordered an impact socket off of https://www.mcmaster.com/drive-sockets (the company I work for gets free next day shipping) The socket is 11/16" (17.4mm~) 4 point 3/4" drive but I fabricated an adapter for 1/2" using stock tube and scrap metal. I heated the bolt/thread with propane and cooled it with water. Came loose like butter with 1/5 of the force I used last time. I figure I could have gotten away with making another scrap metal socket but I had already ordered the socket, only $25. Thank you all for the suggestions, they are much appreciated. Back on the road! 🙂

I was able to break the drain bolts loose for both trans and diff. Transmission had quite a bit of tiny metal fragments in the oil, I'm not sure if anyone had ever changed it. Differential had coffee brown fluid with a side of white cream, hardly any fragments. I tried getting the fill bolt on the transmission loose (soaked it in wd-40), what an odd square bolt Nissan decided to use (I'm measuring 17mm). Tried using a wrench but it slipped, had to file off the excess on the sides of the bolt to get it back to somewhat square. I realized a socket is my only option, its deadly tight on there and a wrench will just end up rounding the corners. I hacked together a 17mm square 1/2" drive socket using some stock pipe and scrap metal, it fit very well and I was confident it would work... This bolt is on tight! Didn't even budge.

The flange is about 3" in diameter 3*3.14(pi)= 9.42" circumference 9.42/360= 0.0262" per degree 1/8" = 0.125" 0.125/0.0262= 4.77° so 1/8" is close to 5 degrees It's somewhere in that range, not too much more. I'm not gonna worry about it as I am likely going to swap the diff out for a higher gear ratio after the turbo. I haven't gotten to draining it yet

Center joint needs to be replaced. The other 2 joints trans and diff are tight and in good condition. Question is how much backlash is acceptable in these differentials, its got about 8°

Taking a second look the numbers I gave were highly inaccurate. I put the transmission in gear and there is maybe 1° , basically nothing. U joint behind the center bearing is shot 5-10°. Differential is around the likes of 8-10°~ with the parking brake engaged and transmission in neutral. The previous owner had not tightened the parking brake line, it was loose as a goose. He told me he parked it in gear everywhere he went, who knows how long ago the parking brake stopped working. I imagine having the drive line holding the weight of the car constantly can loosen some things up.

Just getting around to changing the Transmission & Differential fluid. While driving I have noticed a 'clunk' when shifting. I decided to check out my driveshaft joints. Center bearing has been replaced fairly recently and is in quite good condition. Turns out my center U-joint has 45 degrees of 'clunk' and will be no issue replacing. What worries me is the transmission has about 20 degrees of play, and the driveshaft about 30. Is this fairly normal for an older car as such? I won the bid on the SD33T IP I posted a link to. I will look for a spare 4 cylinder in-line IP and attempt to Frankenstein them together. If it fails to run ill have the original IP with the pneumatic governor as a backup. I met with Wayno and he explained how he managed to successfully pipe the vacuum & vent lines with a blow through setup (Air Filter>Turbo Compressor>Vent Line>Throttle Body>Vacuum Line>Intake Manifold) Essentially keeping the lines put and adding a turbo past the air filter. @wayno Correct me if I'm wrong. I'm going to attempt deleting the throttle body... for science

I found the thread I mentioned: http://nissandiesel.dyndns.org/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=495&start=105 It was Knucklehead who was talking about removing the throttle body, as well as IP governors being interchangeable on in-line pumps. Quoting him on the topic of modifying the IP in order to be able to delete the throttle body: @wayno Do either of your trucks have a VE style IP? What are the differences between in-line and VE? Could you fit a VE pump onto an engine block designed for an in-line? I read up on SD22 engines and it seems later models (1981+) received 3-ring pistons (not sure if this constitutes it as a turbo piston) rather than 5-ring, as well as 5 main crank bearings rather than 3. Sources: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_SD_engine ; https://www.engine-specs.net/nissan/sd22.html I would prefer to remove the throttle body and have a mechanical IP, though I'm not sure if its worth the trouble. What do you think? As for what turbo I'm thinking of getting, I will most likely look for a VW Jetta 1.6-2.0 L at a junkyard. I'm not looking to make big power, just enough to bring the HP up to 100-120.

Waiting for somewhat clear weather to take some quality photos. In the meantime here are photos of the previous owner's post: Album: https://ibb.co/album/hY4t8v The exterior is covered in Rhino bed liner 😉 The previous owner had removed the tailgate along with the tailgate strikers and bolted on a canopy. I have the matching tailgate but cant re-attach it until I find a pair of tailgate strikers (brackets that bolt into the sides of the bed allowing the tailgate to latch onto and stay up). I concur with the assessment of large turbos not being suited for such an engine, for #1: diesels don't rev high (especially these ones) and will not pump enough air to spool up a large turbo maximizing its effectiveness. #2: high boost levels will tend to send these engines to the scrap yard due to not being designed for boost (even SD33T engines are notorious for cracked pistons & heads). Before committing to buying one of these old school diesels I searched for threads related to the topic of turbocharging an SD22. I came across a thread on this forum (although I fail to find it again, the title was something like 'This is the bomb... SD22 Turbo!') I read through the entire thing in the span of about 4 hours. 15 pages dating up to 8 years ago. While reading, one thing became very clear. Properly setting up the injector pump is the biggest challenge, due to the combination of vacuum & boost fundamentally changing the characteristics of the injector pump vacuum lines. I started thinking how to go about integrating boost into the vacuum lines to calculate how much fuel is needed at any given RPM & PSI. I remember reading one of your posts where you stated getting rid of the throttle body all together and converting the injector pump to be mechanical rather than working off vacuum would be best case scenario. I read on and it seems the SD engine family has interchangeable injector pump governors. An SD33T injector pump governor is designed for turbo applications and seems like it would be a near perfect plug-n-play in this case. I managed to find an SD33T Injector Pump for sale on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/SD33T-diesel-injector-pump-Nissan-International-Scout/333428815791?hash=item4da1e7f7af:g:T0kAAOSw901dUFFy Album: https://ibb.co/album/e52PFa

Just got this sweet little datsun. 1982 SD22 152,000 mi 5 speed manual planning on slapping a turbo targeting 8 psi will post pictures/videos later