slim_jimmy7

Usually means that the SSL Certificate expired, doesn't necessarily mean anyone hacked into it. Yes, it is a little more vulnerable at the moment, but it happens.

So although I seemed to have got on top of my cooling issues last summer, I want a little more margin for error and reliability when it comes to cooling on those hotter days. Super excited that along with a new Koyorad I am getting a transmission cooler for my auto trans.  I purchased both, now need a hose, wanted to dress it up with stainless hoses under the hood, but getting conflicting reports on what type of hose is needed for the transmission cooler lines.

Will these work?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/20Ft-6M-6AN-Stainless-Steel-Braided-Fuel-Oil-Line-Hose-Coolant-Air-AN6-20-Feet/122940205847?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Thanks in advance!  Always new things to learn and make mistakes on ?

I would be interested in his dashes, but that site doesn't work.

Very interested in this. Mine is in good shape yet, but has a tear WAY in the corner.  Gives my OCD a little eye twitch when I look at it.

As an update, checked over everything. Turns out the relay is not working properly, going to order another one and see what happens

That is really helpful actually, both of you. When I got the vehicle the parking lights were not even wired. I may have wired one of the parking lights wrong (there were extra wires in the mix), so I will check both of those.

I wasn’t too worried about my headlights because they work. However, I got pulled over the other day because my high beams were always on. I cannot get them off, everything looked ok on the column switch. I cleaned up the contacts on the column. I did get a new headlight relay because the old one burnt up, it’s a 72, the replacement relay is one of those with the separate plastic connector. The dash does indicate that the brights are on.

I unplug the outside lights and inside ones still work, all my indicator lights work as do my blinkers. What am I missing, or what should I check?

From what I gather the mounting hardware is different?  Maybe I should just try, I can always send it back.

My drivers seat is so ratty that when I get out of the car I have little pieces of foam stuck to my clothes. My other seats are torn up as well, but at least there is vinyl on them.

I have some points to use up on amazon and stumbled across some 240z seat covers that look like they would fit on my seat.  Does anyone know if the seat cushions are similar enough size to hog ring those covers on?

Was going to replace it last night but since it is apparently monsoon season, I needed to vacuum water out of my basement instead. I will look down the oil inlet hole before I start.

That's me!  I thought I was the only one in Iowa, it turns out I think there is someone with a 510 in Des Moines

I got a M152 Melling pump, and thank you for the response, I was hoping that was the case!

Going to put in a new oil pump because the gasket on the old one leaks and thought as long as I'm in there I'll put a new pump in.  So I looked at the process to put in the pump with the manual that I downloaded and they seem to make this process seem like a huge undertaking.  How hard is it to do this?  Can I just line it up with TDC, take off distributor, and swap it out or do I need to do something more?

I was putting on a fan belt the other day and thought to myself how much better it would be to not have to situate my arms around a board  :thumbup:

That's really smart, I will try that. Thank you!

72 Datsun 510, sorry can’t find the edit on mobile...

The way I understand it, the original hood prop is a small rod that takes two right angles in opposite directions on the end with a spring. I have the spring, but no rod, I am getting tired of working around a 2 by 4 holding up my hood! Does anyone have a spare one that they could give me the measurement for so I can create one? Or if you have a spare can I purchase it?

So last night I drove to the football game which is around 30 minutes away. I went to the autocrats store and grabbed three hose clamps and put them on the upper and lower hoses in areas I thought it would be prone to collapsing.

Perfect temperature and had defrost the whole way!  So guess I will need some new upper and lower hoses.  Thank you for your quick responses datsunmike, draker, and racerx.  Now I can start moving forward with this thing.

$10 for CLR to clean the scale out.

 

Put thermostat back in and the temp won't jump around so much.

 

 

Does it need topping up all the time?

Does that eat gaskets or are you talking about taking the radiator out and doing it outside the car?

Hopefully I replied to all of these:

The heater core was repaired at a radiator repair shop after I took it out and cleaned it all up, also sent my valve off to a cool guy in Bend, OR who made it like new.  The collapsing lower hose thought makes a lot of sense with what I am experiencing.  I may try that with a new radiator or have the radiator sent off to be repaired

Oil is good color, no white smoke, sometimes it'll smoke blue on startup.  I did take out the thermostat, and it did still heat up.

I had similar issues with overheating with a stock radiator and L16. I flushed the radiator multiple times. Used muriatic acid.. use radiator flush chemicals. Flowed water in both directions. End result, rust, and still overheating.

 

I would pull the radiator, take to a radiator shop and have them boil it. They will be able to clean and test it for you. It's more than likely just a few of the rows are plugged with debris that won't come out without some persuasion.

 

You can take your hand or temp gun and hit it on multiple spots on the radiator. You might find that some spots are much cooler than others. What would signify a blockage.

 

Do you have a fan clutch? This could also be bad and causing similar issues.

No fan clutch, when I tipped the radiator after taking it out, it was like gravel rolling around.

I would bet it is a stant, plugs look OK, slightly brownish.  I will recheck the timing, it idles rough under load yet, if it's in park or neutral it's perfect, but if I am at a stop light it's rough.

Self learned car guy with limited knowledge here so bear with me.  Prepare for the word vomit.

I live in Iowa so this time of year a functioning heating and radiator cooling system is very important. 37 degrees this morning, 76 at noon. I purchased this vehicle from California, and by and large it's a good vehicle. 510 4-door automatic 1972(hoping at some point to put in a manual).  No engine mods as far as I know.

I drove it a few times over the summer on trips of 30 minutes or so. Each time I would drive the engine temp would slowly creep up to almost full hot.  The heater core was deleted when I got it. I would reach my destination just in time and set there for a few hours before making my trip back home.

If I squeezed the top hose a few times before startup, the car stays cooler longer, I will be able to drive an hour uninterrupted before the temp gets too hot. If I stay at 55mph, my temp will not raise, anything higher and it rises.  Transmission cooler hoses leak when under pressure, level looks good on the transmission though.

Got a new rebuilt carb and adjusted (made sure not too much air flow), flushed the radiator 2x.  Took radiator out/flushed it, replaced water pump, flushed the engine (water flowed). No little bubbles in the coolant, oil doesn't change color.

A lot of rust and lime was inside the radiator when I got it out, but temperature readings on lower and upper hoses seemed to show the cooling was happening. If it is 180-200 on top hose, 120-130 on bottom hose.

Replaced thermostat, took thermostat out to check for maybe a blockage behind the thermostat, same result. Re added the heater core recently.

My test trips have a few stops in the country, 4 miles to the 1st stop the car will run just below the "E" in TEMP, no matter what speed I go.  As soon as I slow down and speed back up the temp starts rising past the P, when I stop to check the temp with a laser thermometer the temp is around 200-215 or so on top hose.  And engine block is warmer, lower hose may creep up to 140, but that is it.

Since adding the heater core, my trip to the location will have heat for defrost on the way up, but on the way back the heater is cold.  When idling the temperature is good, in fact if it gets warm I can stop at a corner and keep it there for a few minutes at idle and it will cool off.

I'm totally lost, any advice?