Loryde520

I am interested in the inner aluminum sill plates

Thanks

What is your timing set at? Is it a stock or modified distributor? How about the spark plugs?

 

Tell these guys and pass along valuable info.

Im running NGK plugs B6ES gapped at .041", stock electronic Hitachi dizzy, and timing is set at many trips around the block.

I'm running a closed chamber 210 head on my L20B with a Shadbolt 445 cam on #2 hole and Mikuni R1 carbs. I now apparently have 10:1 compression. I am running Chevron 94 octane, but did fill lastnight with 91 octane. My truck pulls hard in all gears with no pinging whatsoever. I will see after the 91 octane runs through it.

The jury is in!!

Running 91 octane is the same as 94 octane. NO pinging and it actually runs a little cooler, just like my buddy said it would! He works around gasoline products and said the 94 octane would make the engine run hotter, and it is true,...according to my set-up.

I'm running a closed chamber 210 head on my L20B with a Shadbolt 445 cam on #2 hole and Mikuni R1 carbs. I now apparently have 10:1 compression. I am running Chevron 94 octane, but did fill lastnight with 91 octane. My truck pulls hard in all gears with no pinging whatsoever. I will see after the 91 octane runs through it.

Eggs have 'yolkes' transmissions and drive trains have "yokes."

Now you're makin want some bacon and eggs. Screw the dogleg!!

Lower gear ratio may even help prolong the life of the dogleg, especially one strapped behind an L20B.

Should I not run the dogleg behind my L20?

I finally have had a chance to run my truck out on the hiway, and it sucks! I'm at 3200 rpm at 57 mph. I went to look at a dogleg 5 spd out of a 200sx last night and am now at a crossroads at what I should do.

Do I go for the 5 spd swap or look at maybe different gears in the rear. I've done alot of reading on here about the swap, and I am somewhat aware of the problems I may incur, but shouldn't be too difficult. The only question I have is will my driveshaft fit?

It was custom made 1 piece with a 510 yolk on it. My question is, will the dust flange on the yolk slide into the dust flange on the back of the dogleg 5 spd?

I currently have a 510 4spd. behind my L20B, and that tranny doesn't have the dust flange on the tail where the yolk slips in. Or, should I leave the 4 spd. and maybe look for some taller gears?

Thanks in advance to any ideas!

Why do you want an electric fan?

I have mine mounted between the grille and radiator. I only have one brcause of clearance issues with an L20B in my 520. I would prefer a clutch fan but can't.

Glad to see another nice truck hittin the road this summer!

Lets hear those R1s open up!

I might not be hearing anything open up after the maiden voyage tonight! Wow,.... are those Mikuni's ever loud! I thought my hood was gonna get sucked inside out. I knew they drew air on a throttle snap but they really moan under power. Really cool sound though and I'm lovin' it.

Interior is gonna see some Dyna mat though!

I will post a driving video as soon as the weather co-operates and I have some free time.

Absolutley R1's. I tried the Weber thing, wanted something a little more aggressive looking.

I kept the weber with the Edelbrock intake for a future project,.....maybe a 510.

R1s??

 

shounded like a weber down draft on there

 

 

well your right when cold mine sounds loud also( I have a dynomax Superturbo on my 521) But would get a Stock Walker type turbo next time .I like quiet on a daily driver

I would put a more quiet muffler on there.

 

Where you get the whitewalls?

Ya, not sure about muffler yet. Exhaust is all brand new, gotta give it some break in time. It actually sounds better in real, not through Youtube.

The white walls came out of my VW inventory. Bought them off a guy in VW club. I think they are at any swapmeet or Ebay.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQOG_KYIPGQ

Well it's been a week since I tore into my motor to solve the oil burning problem. Everything is back together and the problem is solved!!

I honed the cylinders and replaced the rings and bearings. I am running the 210 head with the Shadbolt 445 cam on #2 sprocket  hole and it runs like a top!! No more oil burner!!! 

My truck should be on the road in about a week. It's interior time next, some odds and ends, then time to enjoy driving my 520 around. Thanks again everyone for your input and opinions. It was a great deal of help for me being new to the Datsun world. I think I finally have these things figured out.

I had the same problem on my recently installed Mikuni R1's. The second carb in started to squirt gas out of the tiny air jet. I installed a 1-4 psi fuel pressure regulator and problem solved,....for now. I ordered 4 new needle and seat kits from the local Yamaha dealer just in case the problem arises again. Apperently the o-ring around the outside of the seat tube can leak and cause the same problem. It's like the floats aren't shutting off the gas flow. Mine carb was actually bleeding fuel into the intake tube and causing a hard start issue. I am running a stock mechanical pump with a Holley regulator.

Those wheels are from Coker wheel and they sell those flush mount moon caps for their wheels specifically. I wanted the same look but I went with the cheaper version chevy truck 6 bolt wheel, although they were a little hard to find. Same effect though.

I've also got a rust free '68 520.

Closer view.. Im also trying to look for these hub caps! If i have to settle for the other ones (dog bowl dog dish watevr it is) i will but i like these more so let me know

 

Truck runs awesome nice and loapy, nice throttle response,but.....still burns oil goddamitt!!!

Coming apart .....again. Rings this time. If not, everything is for sale!

Both my heads are closed chamber. The W58 and the 210 head. The W58 has 1.65 intake and 1.38 exhaust valves. The 210 has 1.65 intakes and 1.30 exhaust valves. I'm putting the 210 head on tonight with the 445 cam......stay tuned. I will let you know what transpires.

I am running the cam sprocket on #2 hole also.

210 closed chamber

http://s568.photobucket.com/user/loryde_2000/media/IMG_7237_zpsxe0bswk9.jpg.html?filters[user]=143958658&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=8

http://s568.photobucket.com/user/loryde_2000/media/IMG_7240_zpswms749wq.jpg.html?filters[user]=143958658&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=7

http://s568.photobucket.com/user/loryde_2000/media/IMG_7238_zpsecargb6e.jpg.html?filters[user]=143958658&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=6

http://s568.photobucket.com/user/loryde_2000/media/IMG_7242_zpsgemrbbil.jpg.html?filters[user]=143958658&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=5

http://s568.photobucket.com/user/loryde_2000/media/IMG_7243_zpsoyiibbxq.jpg.html?filters[user]=143958658&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=3

http://s568.photobucket.com/user/loryde_2000/media/IMG_7245_zpsjr9swvop.jpg.html?filters[user]=143958658&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=2

Valve seals where new and were all in place. I'm sure I never over filled the oil. It took around 4 quarts if I remember right. I don't have a pvc suction hooked up to my intake as I am running Mikunis on a Bogg intake. I'm running the block pipe to atmosphere.

Pictures are coming.

My 210 head is definately closed chamber.

Is the U20 cam any good that came out of the W58, which looks to be a closed chamber head also.

Thanks everyone,..and yes, pix are coming.

The 210 head is just a generic L16 head and is not even close to an L16/18 SSS head. Someone may have put larger intakes in it and they may have made the port openings larger at the gasket but it won't be larger all the way to the valve like the 219 / 912 SSS head. There was a 210 with closed combustion chamber, quite rare but the vast majority were open 'semi closed' (a term that makes little sense as it either is or it isn't)

 

Please post a picture of this 210 head's combustion chamber.

 

 

 

An equal amount of oil on each piston would seem to indicate an equal amount of cause. The chances of valve cracks being equal on all four are very remote.

 

It's more likely the valve seals are all bad or even missing.

 

Over filling of the oil could whip up an oil fog that would be sucked out the crankcase vent pipe to the PCV and into the intake. Take a look at your intake... does it have oil in it? At the same time the rings would be overloaded with oil and it would enter the combustion chamber directly.

 

When the L20B was installed did you swap the L16 oil pan onto the L20B??? What dip stick???? Maybe it has more oil in it that you think.

Just rebuild the W58 head(new guides, ect.), as your exhaust manifold is made for round port exhaust, and the 210 head has small intake ports which are always going to be small, it's like trying to breath thru a straw, sure you can sit on the couch and breath, but it won't work on a jog around the block.

Well the head is cracked, so I can't rebuild it. My 210 has 1 3/8" intake runners, and my exhaust manifold is square port.

So, here's my dilemma. I've got a L20B in my 520. It was constantly burning oil, like really severe on start-up. I pulled the W-58 head off and found about a 1/4 teaspoon of fresh oil in every piston dish. Looking further into the head after pulling a couple of valves I discovered a few cracks around the valve guides. This head is junk which is too bad because it was a closed chamber W58, which I understand is rare??

I bought a complete rebuilt 1600 with a faux SSS head, meaning it's a 210 casting with 1.65 intake and 1.30 exhaust valves with closed chambers. It has a Shadbolt 445 cam in it ready to go. I also got a Shadbolt 651 cam with the motor. 

My question is, do I run the 445 cam or the 651? I also have a brand new U20 cam out of my W58 head. I'm not really sure what a U20 is, but those are the numbers on it. I should also mention I am running Mikuni R1 carbs with a Bogg Bros. intake and a Hitachi dizzy.The truck ran really good with the W58 head and carbs, however I was gonna kill every mosquito in BC with the smoke.

Any help is greatly appreciated!