Loryde520

I meant to post this in Datsun Pictures under General Forums.....dang!

This is my '68 Datsun 520. It is a rust free truck I bought in Portland Oregon about 5 years ago. It has an L20B with a 510 4spd. I had an intake manifold made by Bogg Bros in the UK for my R1 Mikunis. It has a triple s head with a Shadbolt 445 cam which has quite a lope to it. It all works very well together except for the low gearing. This winter my dogleg is going in it!

I had the exact same problem on my L20B a few years ago. It turned out to be bad rings. I did the job without pulling the motor out. pull the pan and head and it's easy from there on. I rolled in a new set of bearings while I was in there too. It runs awesome now and doesn't use a drop of oil. I was running Delo 400 but have switched to Rotella 15/40.

I hope this helps you out. Good Luck!

WOW!!! Cool story!!

Yup,....one is back up light switch.

... Wait you guys have hood lamps? Lol

we don't have much sunlight way up north here........

The 520 should be like the 521 and be swithed when the hood is opened.  These lights are as bright as a candle in the wind!  LOL

Yes, mine is switched on when the hood is opened, but only when the park or headlights are on.

Not sure which car/truck you have but my '68 520 hoodlight only comes on when park or headlights are on.

Yup, just like every other car that hits the spotlight via these "fantasy" shows. How many people can truly do a frame off in 2 weeks??? I would maybe watch the show for the love of my Datsun, but I think this show will fuck this little world of Datsuns we live in. As soon as BJ gets ahold of these little cars and trucks, watch out!!! No one will ever buy my 520 for any amount of doe!!

Sounds like a vacuum leak to me, or a plugged idle jet. This is true on dirt bikes I work on. When you have to run with the choke on, it usually is a plugged idle circuit. Definitely running lean if plugs are white. It will be running hot too in a lean situation. Also check for vacuum leaks. Take the carb apart if you haven't already and have a look see inside. They are very easy carbs to work on and there is lots of info on the 'net.

Ive got a '93 Hardbody KC VG 30 for sale, but I'm on the wrong coast.

I know this car you are talking about, or should I say, I seen this car on Craigslist. It's the green 2 door for sale in Alberta with Saskatchewan plates correct?

If it is, I did the quick math and he is asking a little too much considering the work that needs to be done. I personally would be looking south of the border for a cleaner more complete driver for around the same money. I do live only 15 mins. from the Washington state border, so this may be an easier option for me. I have in the past seen some 510's for sale in Alberta that were actually pretty decent cars for not a ton of money. It does always does seem to be when you are looking, nothing is available. Take your time and look everyday on CL Kijiji, or whatever you use. Something will always show up.

Good luck on your 510 adventure and welcome to Ratsun!

Very clean little truck for sure!! Any engine plans?

You sure the shocks are going to bottom out? Why would Nissan design them to bottom out before the suspension did? When the LCAs are beyond the bump stops you can't expect ANY shock absorber to be doing any worthwhile dampening. There just isn't enough travel to soften the blow and this is why your dentist loves you. Replace the tires will softer or fewer side wall plies. Car tires rather than truck tires.

Yup, I am running very nice car tires on steel wheels.

My dentist likes me! I've gotta get new fillings every few weeks. I'm on a static lower and I am seriously contemplating air-ride. 

The back rides fine on 3" lowering blocks snubbers removed. Front was re-indexed on one spline drop, no snubbers. The problem is you really need shorter front gas shocks. I am running a little bit shorter old stock KYB. I also had to camber in my front end for tire to fender clearence.

That would be the one year only '69 L521. Earlier is a 520, later is a PL521 with the L16

 

Frame mounting for the rubber isolators are much different than for the L series. Get your welder.

 

520 and J13 powered 521 had a 4.875 ratio differential. It's going to rev like crazy but the L16 can handle it.

 

Depends on the 5 speed.... the dogleg will fit without cutting the driveshaft but the 71B transmissions will. Both will need mounting modifications.

You are correct on the motor mounts Mike. I've got an L20B in mine and the only real problem is you can't run a mechanical fan unless you cut the rad support. I did'nt want mine cut, so I went with an electric push fan connected to a thermostatic switch. The heater lines will be tight between the head and firewall. I will be installing a dogleg 5spd from a 200 sx soon, so I will let you know of any mods. I currently have a 510 4spd with a custom made 1 piece drveshaft. Alternator will have to go onto the left lower side of motor too. I'm not sure what oil pan I have, it came with the truck. The cross member has to be modified a bit too.

The park said "that is correct sir, we do not allow 'naked and afraid' style camping here".

 

So... apparently you need to wear clothes, you may not eat other campers. Further I was told that I may not bring chariots, alcohol, cocaine, or strippers.

 

Fucking pruds. Gotta bring clothes, a tent, and a dog leash.

No alcohol??? It ain't camping then!!! 

I love the carbs. They are finicky, but they draw alot of scratching heads at shows. They aren't for everyone, but if you have some patience and an ounce of mechanical ability, then go for it!

The intake was $450 cdn. to my door. It will be less in USD. Send them an email, tell them Todd from Mission sent you. Super good to deal with. They also supplied my intake rubbers and clamps, for a bit more.

http://www.boggbros.co.uk/fabrication.html

 I will give an overview of my successful R1 carb set-up. This may answer some previous unkowns. I had my intake made by Bogg Bros. in the UK. I had them install small vacuum ports on all 4 runners,  for vacuum advance only. I am running my block breather to open air, as advised by Steven Bogg. I took my carbs completely apart, and cleaned everything, reset the floats and drilled my mains to 1.8mm for my L20B then set my (synced) my throttle plates with a feeler gauge. I also put the C clips on the middle groove. The idle mixture screws are turned out approximately 3 turns just to get it running at first. All this can be adjusted to your set-up, what ever you need to maximize these carbs and not idle/run too lean or rich.

At first install I plugged all 3 ports and ran my distributor to just one port which was a fail. For one, my dizzy  had a hole in the diaphram and two, it was a pulsing vacuum signal. I then tied all 4 ports together via T fittings for a stronger, even, signal. I fixed the diaphram and Voila! She pulls super hard now! I run a stock mechanical pump with a pressure regulator at 3.5 psi. The R1's will leak at anything much over. I hooked up the enrichen valves to a choke cable for cold starts, which seems to work fine. I did not run coolant thru the carbs like they are on the bikes, no icing at all. However, my truck doesn't see the road in the winter.

At first I was running no air filters thinking I wouldn't restrict any air flow. I was wrong. After some advice from my motorbike mechanic, I was advised the filters help with the mixing of the air/fuel mixture. He was right! It ran better a under acceleration. There were many trips around the block for timing, mixture and C clip settings. I was running 94 octane at first, but have been running 91 since.The truck was running a little hotter with 94. My plugs are always clean. The fuel mileage isn't the best probably because of my low rear gears and my heavy foot, but who the hell cares. It's a blast to drive!

They best way to really tune your settings is with an AFR wide band. This is my next addition as soon as I can find a header so I can weld the bung into.Also, I am installing my 5 speed for a little more top end drive ability.

I would recommend anyone wanting to run these carbs, pickup an extra set of float valves and bowl gaskets at your local Yamaha dealer. This seemed to be the biggest problem I've had.

I hope this will answer some questions for anyone wanting to use this set up.

does anyone know if there is a manufacturer who makes a intake manifold to mate R1 carbs to L series motors?.. considering these for my Z..

Bogg Bros in the UK. Top Notch!

I had my made in the UK by Bogg Bros. racing.It was custom made for me, and the whole thing to my door was less than 10 days. They are a little pricey, but is a superior fit and finish. I am running R1's on my 520 on an L20B.

There are some real shit boxes at canby. Some of them even win awards.

Well I wouldn't go as far as calling mine a shitbox, nor do I expect any awards. I thought it would be cool to bring my truck back down to where I bought it from, maybe someone would recognize  it and give me some history on it. Lol. This little truck has come a long ways from when I brought it home. I've heard lots about Canby since joining Ratsun, now I can experience it, no matter if it's $10 or $30 a night. :rofl:

So would I be frowned upon for trailering my 520 down from BC? There is only one of me and I have to drive my "house" down to stay in. It's definately not a "trailer queen" by any stretch, just hard to drive 2 vehicles at the same time....right?