71Hustler

I was looking at the Vintage Connections website this morning and wondering what all I should order. This is super helpful!

http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/5712241623.html Anyone in Oregon familiar with this truck? I texted within a few hours after posting, haven't heard back. Also it's odd each of the photos are taken from the outside (no under the hood, inside the cab) and no details.

Yep, I'm on it! Hope to switch to one or the other very soon. Kicking myself for not checking the points better, but they looked fine and were only about a year old. At least I learned how to rebuild a carb in the process. :P

Goddamn it! It was the points all along.

I can't run the engine to do a hot compression test, thus the cold one.

In terms of the resistor, ignition, and ballast, it starts, and I can let go of the key. The engine dies a few turns in after start. I did a compression test (cold, obviously) and got 150 +/- 1 across all four, so I was happy to rule out anything crazy going on there. So, the plan at this time is to figure out how to check static timing, look more closely at the distributor, and circle back to the carb. It has to be fuel or timing related I think. A mechanic last year had adjusted the timing and carb to try to stop it from dieseling (unsuccessfully), but I wonder if that put it right on the edge of falling out of time. (Granted, I don't know if that's even possible)

Point taken, thanks--we'll check the plate for warping. Still surprised to think that this could cause such a massive failure.

We ran gas straight into the pump from a gas can earlier to see if it was a problem in the tank or line, but engine still exhibited same problem. I replaced the line between the pump and the carb (it looked ok, but figured I might as well). Last night, we disconnected the line from the carb and ran it into a can, then ran the starter--gas flowed just fine from the pump and down out the line.

Yes, there's a resistor for the coil. Sorry, but what does "omh this out" mean?

Yep, it's been checked at least three times in this whole ordeal.

Ok, so my fuel pump is definitely working fine, I have spark at the coil and plugs, and the coil read on the meter correctly. We also confirmed that the ground wire in the distributor is good (a suggestion as the possible problem from elsewhere). All the actions I've taken so far have been to address this existing problem -- nothing's changed it. In terms of cracking or warping the carb adapter, the carb was removed and rebuilt to address this problem. If there was an existing crack in the carb adapter, I think we would have noticed it when reinstalling the carb. It's dying even faster now, starting and turning over just a couple times. This seems pretty dramatic behavior for a vacuum leak, right? My friend suggested that something might be going on with the timing chain, so I guess that's another thing to check. I'm on the verge of having it towed into a shop, but dreading an expensive diagnosis.

Yes, carb cleaner was sprayed around the intake and carb plate. I'm not sure if my guy sprayed around the hoses, so that's still a possibility. We couldn't find torque specs for the carb and adapter--I don't think he got too crazy with it. I replaced the fuel line from the pump to the carb as well cause it looked pretty old. I'm waiting for a friend to help me with more troubleshooting, hopefully this weekend. *Fingers crossed*

Yep, plugged jet is the most popular suggestion. But I cleaned and rebuilt the carb--I feel pretty confident that the jets were clear and I got the float in the right place (brass float at 41mm). edit: also checked the float for leaks.

Thanks for the tips on electrical! I don't have an idle cut solenoid. I'll check the float chamber next time. When it dies, there's often a burst of gas that shoots up from the carb (almost looks like smoke). In terms of driving, we can't drive it...When this first started happening, my husband just got down the block and promptly turned around. It's been in the driveway since then.

Hi everyone, I wrote about this on FB Ratsun a couple weeks ago, thought I'd also ask here. I have a 69 510 wagon with a LZ22 (bought this way, didn't build it) and a Weber 32/36 DVG. A few weeks ago, after starting strong and fast idling fine, it started gasping and dying when getting warm (when the temp needle starts moving). I think this video is public: https://www.facebook.com/kimberly.pendell/videos/10153993666923828/?l=765998126179561160 Once the engine was warm, it would still start strong, but quickly do the same (it's not dying quick, there's the few moments of painful attempts to keep itself going). In all of this, choked or not results in the same behavior once it's been running for a few moments. Stepping on the gas won't save it either. So, it seemed either fuel related or maybe electrical. However, after the following steps listed below, it's still dying, but even quicker (think it ran for about 40 seconds today even with a fully cold start -- granted it's 80 outside today). I have, in this order: -fed gas straight into the fuel pump from gas can to rule out tank/gas line/filter problem, no change in behavior -checked for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner, couldn't find any -replaced the condenser -rebuilt the carburetor (returning idle and mixture screws to their earlier locations) -double checked tightness on intake manifold, and carburetor adapter plate -replaced the coil Vacuum leak is still a possibility--my husband isn't entirely confident in his thoroughness, but we can't keep it running long enough at this point to look for them. Any thoughts?