perattzi

Hi, I didn’t take any pics. It was definitely a PITA, at least with my particular part. Basically you remove the center console flip it over, there is a metal ring/bracket held in w/4 screws.. that you remove. Then you line up the cover and place the bracket back over, it presses down on the fabric and sandwiches it in place. There’s several little raised nubs that grab the fabric. Hard part is lining it up on all 4 sides! What worked is to lightly tighten the screws down then sorta pull one side of the fabric taut and tighten the screws, pull the other side etc… repeat about 27 times 😂

Thanks! Yep it’s pretty nice except the battery tray area needs cut out and replaced. If only the po would’ve taken the battery out! 😖

Ah yes good call. Indeed I meant the rad fan. My old BMW did same thing, I should have known. Will check to see if it slips or not. Thx!

This is the spot behind glovebox where I seem to have misplaced a duct. Also found some of the paperwork, neat to see the truck spent it’s whole life in this area. I’m the 3rd owner.

Found a Nos shifter boot in my office tucked away with my camera equipment of all places 🤷‍♂️ This is the other grille I have. Also I seem to have misplaced one of the heater ducts. This truck had AC installed at the dealer but since removed. On that topic, seems my fan has 6 or 8 blades whereas most have only 4? Is this to do with the a/c? My truck does run cool according to temp gauge( not sure if that could be it) and the fan sounds like a damn plane taking off.

Yea, I have another that has the split design and no oblong headlight trim rings(guess that’s the correct one?). Honestly I can’t decide which I like better. I practically gave away a giant parts lot that came w/ the truck… sadly now I’m needing some of those parts 😂 oops

Well after a hiatus figured it was time to get the ol Datsun back on the road. I’ve posted this truck in the past, but it’s mostly just been in my garage/carport for the last 5 years. Ordered a rebuilt Hitachi, siphoned the old gas out, new battery… Cranked it over, didn’t even try and start hmmm… Then I realized the normally insanely loud fuel pump was conspicuously quiet. Oh right I unplugged the fuel pump a few years ago 😂 Ok got fuel now! Still no start. Checked for spark, nothing. Did all the tests in the repair manual… new cap, rotor, plugs, no dice. Seemed ign unit wasn’t connecting with distributor. So I made 2 crazy long jumper wires from dist to ign unit, boom started right up! After all that, all I needed to do was crimp on new connectors at the red/green wire junction on the radiator 😂😂 Ok running that’s good… hmm well that coolant leaking… new heater hose fixed it. Changed the oil, checked the timing, aired up the tires, went for a rip.. forgot how fun these little trucks are! Still working out some kinks, but having a blast tinkering on it again. The idea was to get it going to sell (as I just have too many motorcycle projects and a camper van build and no place to finish the body work properly without my neighbors killing me)but now I’m second guessing myself! Anyway, hope you all enjoy some pics

Yep here's a few more pics. the interior is super clean. There are a few small rips and scuffs here and there but it's pretty impressive how well taken care of it is. I need to get some of those big rubber floor mats before winter. As far as the LSD in the rear, Im not sure how to ID it? There is an axle code on the info sticker inside the door I think. The side graphics are pretty faded, but look better in real life. I am thinking about peeling them off and buying some of the older style ones that are just a thick darker stripe running along the bottom of the body. Also the chrome bumpers and mirrors etc are in really nice shape. Although I wouldn't mind converting those and the grill to the older style black parts. Does anybody know if they are a direct swap? i like that sticker from the dealer where it was originally bought in Missoula, Mo is still intact.

Ok I think I figured out the source of the noise. I took the valve cover off and checked all rockers while each cylinder was at TDC, all nice and tight no real play at all. Then I shined a light down and saw a large bit of plastic and then realized the slack side cam chain guide is completely missing the plastic part. So the chain is just rattling against the metal backing of the guide. I plan to replace all the related parts while I'm in there. Also when I was down putting a ratchet on the crank pulley bolt I noticed that one half of my stabilizer bar wasn't bolted down! Some idiot just left the bolts out at some point lol.

Cool thanks for the insights. Tomorrow when i have time I will pop the valve cover off and have a look down at the cam chain guides. And I'll check for loose rockers. So at TDC for each cylinder there should be basically zero clearance correct?

Nice, Im gonna get me one of those gadgets!

My lil 620 is once again charging as it should! Let's hope it stays that way so I can start on some fun stuff like prepping the body for a fresh coat of red paint!

So, I decided I wanted a newer 4x4 truck as my commuter/winter driver, bc my 620 just isn't going to make it up to the mountains to go dirt biking or snowboarding etc. I looked at a few trucks and decided I didn't want to pay the Toyota tax and should keep it in the family and go with a Nissan. Probably should have gone with an early Frontier for practicality and updated tech, but they just don't do much for me. So I decided on a D21 or hardbody bc they seem to be plenty reliable, ubiquitous, and to my eyes stylish. The one I bought is a 1997 XE 4x4 model in exceptional condition. It has 138k and has had 2 previous owners, the last being a retired man for over 10 years. It is not without issues however, but I'm kind of crazy in that I would rather have a really clean vehicle that needs a bit of mechanical attention than a battered old lug with no issues. The wheels were swapped out at some point for some horrid chromed steel rims and the suspension needs a refresh. Also, the windshield wipers turn on randomly sometimes, should be an easy fix. However, the biggest concern is an engine rattle that develops after the engine is warmed up. It also has the infamous KA24e timing chain rattle at cold start up, which I plan on addressing regardless. The sound comes from what appears the front/upper end. I am hoping it is also just the timing chain slapping around or perhaps a collapsed lifter and not something more serious like a rod knocking etc. The sound does not get louder when the engine is revved and it is most noticeable at idle. But it sounds to me way more like a rattle than ticking or knocking. I have read up on ways to diagnose rod knock, which I still need to do. I made 2 videos of the sound, one of a cold startup and the other of the engine rattling after warmed up. Any guidance is greatly appreciated! Thanks and here she is. cold start video warm engine rattle https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOy5fW9mxaA&feature=youtu.be

How has been working for you? I am gearing up to really fix this truck and make it nice with a fresh coat of red paint but I need it to be at least running to get it to and fro. It has such good bones. Off topic-were these trucks undercoated from the factory? Mine has what appears to be an original or older thick black rubber like coating on most of the undercarriage. The front end area does not and shows a bit of surface rust here and there but the rest is coated and thus rust free. The only real rust damage on the entire truck is from leaky batteries up front on the wheel well. The floorboards are immaculate.

Thank you! :thumbup:

So, I finally got a replacement alternator. Apparently it was sitting on my neighbors porch for awhile thanks to UPS. It is a reman. Mitsubishi part, looks a little different than the original but it fits/aligns up just fine. My question is where do I hook up the ground wire? It is not marked like on the old part. There is the BAT + terminal and T block connector points that are marked but no 'E' marked for the ground. There are two threaded spots on the alternator body. One to the left of 'B' post at around 8 o'clock and one to the right around 4 o'clock. I'm thinking it doesn't matter which one and it just grounds through the alternator body but I'm not sure. Thoughts? Disappointingly it came with no instructions and the threads need cleaned up. Thanks for any help!

Nips is definitely derogatory, though I don't think banzai meant it to be.

Lol yes but it was NOT the fix. I cannot explain why it made any difference bc the other gauge lights were getting power. Explain why it then turned off but did not work again? 'The Nips'? C'mon man...

Indeed! Thanks for the help, much appreciated!

I believe the alt must be grounded fine because I grounded the B/W wire to the large grounding strap bolt on the engine block and it illuminated the Charge light and powered the choke relay, then I touched it to the alternator case and it had the same effect. So it seems something in the path to ground through the alt has failed, a diode perhaps like you said. And I'm back where I started, thinking I need a new alternator ;) Was hoping it was just something cheap and silly, like the corroded connectors. Seeing as just how bad some of them were. I wouldn't mind repairing the alt I have if practical, but probably a false economy. Thanks again.

Ok so I just touched b/w wire (which is on the bottom of the 'T' connector) to ground and the charge light comes right on. Also, I hear a relay near the wiper fluid click. Sooo what is this telling me? haha. Sorry I sound so clueless. I usually don't have this much trouble with electrical items.

The truck came with A/C yes, but the hoses, blower, compressor etc. were removed and sitting in the bed of the truck when I bought it. However, I doubt the wiring was removed. So does the r/w wire just ground through the body of the alternator to the engine? Or is there a path through the alt? If I directly ground the r/w before the alt the light should come on no? And that would rule out the connector/shorts in wiring harness(though if it were a short to ground on the side going to alt shouldn't the light always be on?).

Good tip on the battery monitor, that is pretty neat! So I replaced only the corroded/damaged connectors on the 6 pin, replaced the eyelet connectors (r/w, black) to the alternator and cleaned up the 'T' shaped connector (yellow, b/w) on the alt. I'm am using quality connectors with a ratcheting crimper...so no autozone bs. Still no charge light with key switch to on. Then I unplugged and replugged the ignition switch. Bam the charge light came on. So I started the truck and the light went out... then I put a voltmeter on the battery...12.5....revved the motor and no change whatsoever, so obviously not charging. But why did the light come on and go out?! I turned the truck off for a minute and then turned it back to 'on' and no charge light again. No amount of unplugging and reconnecting or tugging, wiggling of the wires to the switch ever made the charge light come back on, yet the brake and oil lights are on. Fuses are still good. Is it possible that when I started the truck something shorted? It must be something so silly. It seems like if the other warning lights are getting power from the switch then the charge light should be too correct? Thanks again for the help guys! Just hoping the rain stays at bay since I'm commuting on my motorcycle til I get the truck straightened out haha.

Thanks for the reply! Yes the brake and oil lights come on when you turn key switch, but not the charge light. So red/white stripe powers the charge light? As a side note, the truck is in really good shape overall, most wires/connectors look new inside cab. Under hood the usual wear and degradation, but barely any non-factory connections hacks etc. I will just redo/replace all the connections at the 6 pin connector and alternator and report back. Thanks!