illestmatic

Soo I cracked down the issue with my trucks temperature gauge. Original gauge marked it was hot "H" I bought an aftermarket gauge and it shows its at 180f at all times ir doesn't even move from there. There was nothing wrong with my truck smh oh and I've flushed the system three times and put coolant as well.

So I installed the new thermostat and it still got it was worse putting it on. It over heated within 6 minutes . What the hell I'm so lost.! Question: what exactly is the clutch fan.? My fan has a belt on it connected with the pully and alternator.

Well I have been driving my car on these hot ass days but its xtrwnly hot I mean there's no smoke or anything bit the temp gauge is high . My Datsun has stock intake, stock headers, but it is straight piped with a magnaflow exhaust

To be honest my truck seems to be hot while I'm at a stop and or on the highway. but I don't have a thermostat to begin with I bought a 10$ Murray ultra thermo. Right now before I got home from work. But wait there's more! Something strange happened while driving home from work. As the trucks' temp. Was high the truck started running better than ever. No Boggs, no choke, accelerated flawlessly. Its the first time this has ever happened to me. Ant ideas?

I like the electric fan idea I might just get into that. As far as the thermostat goes ill get one today and install it and see what happens ill go the cheapest way out them go from there. And no as of right now I a "flushing rad." Liquid that mixes with water I barely see oil within the water. There's only oil in the rad and NO water in the oil I've checked every other time I open the good just to make sure.

As soon as the truck warms up it'll start going up from there none stop. I figured the temp would go Down on the highway but I'm wrong it still goes. Wow mike that's a lot of good info. It could be anything at this point lol I'll check off things from your list. *my truck is getting good air flow therea nothing blocking the rad. *I can't tell if the fan clutch is bad so ill keep this in mind * my truck doesnt have a thermostat at the moment so it couldnt be that * I'm not going to lie the previous owner had changed the head gasket. AND I believe it got oil in the rad. So I'm thinking either my problem is a clogged rad or yet another blown head gasket shit man. I ahouldv just swapped the engine in the first place... :/ that's what I get for trying to keep my truck stock.. * I'm doubting the timing is off; mine is set to 5degrees btdc and the carb seems fine.

I have one more issue I want to tackle. The truck seems to be running fine tho the temperature goes up. Pretty much to the "H". The timing is set right, the valves are adj, but at the moment I have water in the radiator since I'm flushing the system. is there anything that can make the temp. Go up.

I'm with you on that one !

I want to take the time and THANK YOU guys verymuch for all your input and reccomendations. it was indeed my valves I adj. Them today warmed it up and took it for a late night cruise the truck ran flawlessly. I can't believe one year of tackling this problem was my valves. You Datsun fam are the best. My trucks running better than ever ill sure be sleeping well tonight. Lol four valves were to open by 2thoudsands of an inch and one valve was to closed. Thank you guys again.

It's good to know that someone has some input with these valves and the way it would run of thiere not set right. I'll check them today. Okay so ill heat up the truck first before I adj the valves. Right? I've checked this before and I'm not to quite sure how its suppose to squirt but ill explain my observation. As I barely pull the trottle I don't see any gas squirting from the carb I hear air suction more than anything. It's not until I pull the throttle more where I start seeing gas but it tends to hesitate but as soon as I pull the throttle hard gass spurts fluently. as far as the resistor goes I didn't remove it. I cant determine which hose goes where I've just always put them back in their original possiaion Since I got the truck.is their a diagram you may reccomwnd me so I can make sure thier in there right place?

okay sound good ill get to it tomorrow depending on what time i come home from work, but ill keep you updated. i really will i want to tackle down this issue once in for all. bye for now.

thank you for the link ill definitely be looking at this tomorrow. so would you suggest i check the valve clearance first since alot of the other things have been taken care of?

yes!! its clear as day and red.

mhmmm that does make some sense with the 7 degree lag so should i set the timing to 12 then and how that goes. because to be honest the problem accured even with the dual points dizzy installed and set to 5 degrees btdc. this is the reason why i converted to matchbox dizzy. but it made no difference.

the wire firing order seems to be correct. the valve clearance is something i havnt done. is it to hard of a task for someone to do?. i have years of experience with tools and mechanics i just never done a task like this but im confident in trying. by automatic fuid level you mean the trany fluid, its perfect and its a red color.

well it only has 3 gears since its an auto. the problem accures at every single gear. even when i come to a stop the truck is slow. the speedometer does move. dont get me wrong the truck does move but it revs more than it moves. by the sound of it; it sound as if the carb needs more fuel. the carb sputters fuel as i accelerate its only when i slightly step on the pedal when the carb works at its best. tho i changed the carb 4 months ago and i rarely used it since the truck never ran correctly.

damn well on that note im still stumped. i think ive done everything a mechanic would of told me to check. is there something im missing?

oh i forgot to mention the truck is auto. hahahah yeah i had my doubts.

@datzenmike hey mike just the person i wanted to talk to. your my only hope at this point. so you say its 12 degrees okay ill take your word for it. i only set it to 5/6 degrees btdc because it was stated on the label under the hood.

welcome to the ratsun forums page youll find this site very helpful and you shouldnt have an issue selling stuff here. wish you luck. out of curiosity what advertising things are you selling?

(1973 Datsun 620 pickup truck with L16 motor) ive tried everything to get my truck back in running order and it seems like no matter what i do my truck is playing games!!! ill state everything that i have done. The prime issue with my truck is that it doesn't accelerate tho it boggs out. the weird thing is that when i slightly step on the pedal it runs perfect, but obviously ill have to be traveling sloooooow all the way to my destination. its when i STEP on the pedal further more when it just revs but doesnt go anywhere. it lacks power. Things ive upgraded; new rebuild/refurnished stock hitachi downdraft carb, converted dual point dizzy for a matchbox dizzy, fixed all vacuum hoses, bought a new mechanical fuel pump, changed fuel filters twice, had my ignition timing set to 5dgs btdc. as instructed on the hood label, switched pcv valve, spark plugs (ngk), spark plug wires, and new alternator. i am completely stumped at this point and dont know what else to do. i know i shouldv just swaped the engine since the beggining but i wanted it original. oh i forgot to mention the motor has 41,800 miles as its marked if this even helps. please any advice or input is very much appreciated its been close to a year that ive been tackling this problem i just want to drive my truck already . . .

In short. Yeah theres same kind of pressure going threw the erg valve or known as the PVC valve. You need it for idle stability valve basically regulated air into the manifold from the block.

mklotz70 thanks for all of your input i was very usefull. as for the tierod it is indeed infront of the shock leaning the tire slightly inward but i dont if this has anything to do with having the truck sitting for 2 yrs. iv drove for about 90 miles until i brought back in the garage to work on. it was swerving and was indeed scary to ride at fast speeds. (havnt done an alignment since iv had it in oct) the previous owner hasnt been able to confirm his brake conversion with me since it was 5 years ago. thats a bummer. i discovered that my lowering spindle are 720 D21 HB. so im thinking to go with HB parts like the rotor and caliper. here are some pics with better angles of the brakes. http://flic.kr/p/iCrKJ7 http://flic.kr/p/iCrRRe http://flic.kr/p/iCrJVo http://flic.kr/p/iCrHXw http://flic.kr/p/iCrHbm what i received with the spindles. http://flic.kr/p/iCr4Q8 http://flic.kr/p/iCrQSv