Claudman

More work has been completed. The oil return pump, waste-gate and blow-off valve have been mounted. Pics as follows:

Just to be clear, I am having the work done by Powerfab Automotive. The fabricator worked for Hennesy before coming to Powerfab and he does great work. There is no way I could do such nice work.

The turbo is a Precison ball bearing 5558. V bands in and out with a billet wheel the turbo can make up to 550 hp. In mapping out the performance it looks like I will need 10 to 12 psig of boost, so the inter cooler will be a good addition. It does add a lot of complexity since it will need a water system, pump and radiator.

There have been many rear mounted turbo designs around for a while. Check out Squires Turbo Systems for some examples. http://ststurbo.com/

I have decided to install a turbo on the wagon and am looking at an easy 250 to 300 HP at the wheels for this project. The plan is to rear mount the Turbo with a air to water intercooler under the hood. I didn't want to screw with the A/C piping in the front and since I don't use a spare tire in the back, the area in the back is perfect for a simple rear turbo install. And when you look at some of the turbo piping I have seen, this setup is not much more piping. I select a rather small Turbo for the installation since I wanted good spool times and good street driving since this is where I use the car mostly. Still have to mount the wastegate, blow-off valve, MAF and Air Filter, but it should come together quickly now.

The air return lines fit nicely in aluminum

The intercooler will be up front

Got the tank installed and fuel lines re-worked and everything fit well enough. The following is a picture of the tank with lines ready to install. The large line is the vent line which I pipe into the vent fitting off the filler nozzle.

I cut out part of the cross-member to run the supply and return lines and the electrical line to the front of the wagon.

The next two photos show the tank in place. The wires hanging loose are for the fuel float level. I wanted to make sure they were wired correctly before so I left them loose until I could check the gauge.

Finally, I was able to remove the old inline pump (280ZX pump) and this cleaned up the hoses and wiring quite a bit.

So far I'm very happy. The pump is completely quite in the tank and there are no leaks. And it looks so much better than the old wagon tank.

Thanks guys, Money sent.

The fuel pump is a Walbro GSL393, 160 liter/hr. Originally had it mounted sucking from the stock tank, but it was too loud. Hope it works better in tank.

150.00

The tank was built custom to fit the wagon only. I assembled the fuel pump and mounted and tested the assembly and everything seems to work great. Now if it just fits in the car.

This is the internal baffle to prevent starvation

Views of the fuel pump assembly

Outside with the pump mounted. I ran the pump to circulate the fuel before mounting the tank as a test

Just got my new aluminum gas tank for my wagon. All set up with an internal baffle for the fuel injection with an in tank mounted pump. No more starvation.

I'll take the the center console and fip up console with the A/C Switch.

The Wife and I took the wagon for a drive to Breham, Texas to see the wildflowers. Got this shot in front of the resturant we had lunch at.

Shot of one of the places we saw on the backroads

That's is not a stock differential! I'd like to see photos of the center housing, both front and rear if possible. Kinda looks like a chevy 8", but it's hard to tell with just a 1/2 shot of the rear cover. Would be nice to see the brakes too.

You have a very nice wagon.

may i please see inside your engine bay?

See the following:

More in my build thread at My link

The following are some photo's of the engine bay with the header in place. They are really nice on the VG 510 since they really open up access and take less room than the 200 SX cast manifolds. And the best news is that it runs MUCH better than before and will easily hit the rev limit without me noticing any drop off in power.

Got my Experimental Engineering Header installed over Christmas along with a 2 1/2" mandrel bend exhaust. I had the headers modified to remove the standard flanges and replace them with V-bands. I went with dual mufflers to keep it quiet. Pictures follow:

Brakes are SOLD.

Looking good! A complete set. These are the Lockheed disc brakes by Akebono.

I have no idea. They are both Akebono, but know nothing about Lockheed.

I got Experimental Engineering headers and a new stainless mandrel bend 2 1/2 exhaust installed over Christmas on my VG30 Goon. Had the headers modified with V-band connections and used Magnaflow Resonator and Muffler. It is a great combo that sounds deep and throaty under power, but quiet when cruising. And the headers really helped performance. It pulls very strong up to red line.

From the back

From the side

For Sale, Houston, Texas

NAPA rebuilt caliper installed in painted stock brackets with new springs/hardware and Beck/Arnley pads (Part 082-0118).

Price $50.00 OBO, plus shipping

Got a little work done before Christmas and still working on the Truck. I purchased a 60 Amp alternator for a 720 to upgrade the 35 amp stock unit and purchase rod eyes and an adjusting bar from McMaster Carr to fab up a new adjusting bar. The new bar makes it really easy to adjust the tension on the alternator.

8419K34 Easy-Adjust Threaded Connecting Rod, 4" Overall Length, 5/16"-24 Threaded Female Ends

60645K131 Steel Ball Joint Rod End, 5/16"-24 Right-Hand Male Shank, 5/16" Ball ID, 1-1/4" L Thread

60645K132 Steel Ball Joint Rod End, 5/16"-24 Left-Hand Male Shank, 5/16" Ball ID, 1-1/4" L Thread

I had to get a longer V-belt since the alternator is slightly larger and was hitting the water inlet to the block.

Also, I have a new Weber 32/36 installed and running. I just got a JAW Wideband connected and will be tuning the Weber with the wideband. I'll let you know how close the stock Weber tuning is for this L20B.

I have a question from all you 620 guys.

I hooked up the vacuum port to the brake booster and it seems to work, but I have never driven a Datsun with power brakes and an wondering how the peddle should feel. I have driven it without the booster connected and it stopped well, just took a little peddle effort, but about the same as my non-boosted 510. The peddle seemed a little mushy once I connected the booster. Is this normal or not?

Tim

Thanks for the comments,

Rims are Chevy and they came with the truck. They are in great shape and look nice in my opinion.

Tim

Dan,

Just got back from the DMV. I now have Texas Truck Plates. Time for a long drive.

Hope to see you soon. Did you get the 510 back and running?

Tim

Well, thanks to Bob3 I am the owner of a new to me 1978 King Cab 620 Pickup Truck. This is my second Datsun (in recent years), but this one has the Ratsun feel and I am going to keep it that way.

It's almost legal in Texas. Passed inspection.

Now all I need to do is get the Texas DMV paperwork done and I'm on the road.

Merry Christmas to all.

Tim

I would like to buy the Truck. PM sent.

Tim

Do you still have the steel wheels and hubcaps?