Braden

i woudl think some type of jb weld similar epoxy? i wouldnt get any type of quick set, the longer set time the better it will be. i vote for the original good ole jb weld. hey post pics of your polishing!!! maybe a write up on how to polish? do you sand 800-2500 grit?????? compounds? heavy med fien ultra fine?? rouges? air buffer? electric buffer? pedestal buffer?

looks good man, where exactly are you located at??? you showed one picture of the frotn swaybar, it looks like someone has done metal replacement under the front rails, could be good or bad depending on the extent of the repair and the skill of the welder. also whats the deal with the rear quarters around the wheels? those dont look stock, looks like someone has cut and redone those as well. closer pics of the rear quarters please.

drive to ky much???

hey i just thought of something!!!!! do this now!!!! put in the steel mesh and crankcase vent baffle plate!!!!!! if you try and put this on after the crank and rods are in you could possibly drop a screw down into the rod/ piston area, these can be a bitch to get out sometimes so better off to save yourself some time and put it in now. put loctite on the screws and use the proper screwdriver to ensure they are tight, those are some screws you really really wouldnt want coming out!!! also when driving in the rear main seal be very very careful, i buggered up my first one and learned alto doing it, i had trouble fidning something to fit the seal so i could drive it in, i ended up using the end of my potato gun which is actually just a cheap 4 inch pvc threaded end cap, maybe something you might wanna go to lowes and get to give a try, it fit perfectly and made it super easy to drive the seal in.

looking fawking nice though man!!!! nice nice nice!!! good and clean and new!!! thumbs up man it takes ahile to get the bottom end all buttoned up but once you do youll be almost there!!!! watch the hainz vid to help you with the head/ timing chain, it helps even if you think you knwo what your doing, i used the manual you are using and it really helps, good job on reading it thoroughly, you seem like a smart guy, you shouldnt have any probelms. more pics!!!!!

no no no no no, this must be your first engine build, when they mean lube they mean lube!!!!! enough lube for an elephant to fuck a whale, seriously drizzle the shit on like syrup!!!!!!!

nice car, but somehow in this entire thread you didnt tell us if this was a 240 or 260. i had to read your info to find out. cool car though, what happened to the l28????!?!!?!?!?!

well im selling my 04 silverado and looking to upgrade to a Z!!!! i had a 71 240 but unfortunatley didnt have it long enough to fix it and drive it, i did however enjoy starting it up and revving it up!!! it had a cammed dual webber l26 in it. im tired of fucking with fuel injected chevy's and newer shit, i want something with soem idle screws like my 620!!! i have been watching a 240 but now i have found this 260, http://limaohio.craigslist.org/cto/2050592225.html im just wondering someone please explain to me the differences body wise and interior wise from the 240z to the 260z i know the engine displacement increased but whats the real differences, i love the sexy curves of the 240 but the 260 is missing something i just cant figure out what it is. here is the 240 i was looking at http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/cto/1984201143.html

take one off and look ath th ebutterflys there should be a number stamped on there with a small square inside of a large square, get backl to us with the number.

chevy luv = YUCK!!!

Datsun 521 = BONER!!!!!

looks great except for the steel freeze plugs, brass ones dont rust. how much did the end up taking off the crank and the cylinder wall?

Drove down, looked at the car. L18 stamped on the side of the block.....

 

Bought the car.....

 

 

Now own a 510! ! !

 

Pics in the 510 section of the forum.

 

Thanks again everyone!

HELL YEAH!!!!!

if anybody would know it would be mike!!!! nice answer, and nice pictures as usuall.

How to fix Stripped Windo Crank. Go to Junkyard and find An unstripped crank and regulator assebly for a 510, come home, remove door panel, remove old assebly, install new used Assebly, put on door panle, put on crank, enjoy feeling the breeze!!! of just jb weld your crank onto your stripped one.

I filed a complaint with the bbb today after i tried one last time to get my local shop to fixx my exhaust they screwed up on, bastards, and to think that the owner is a magistrate!!! part of our local government!!!

Filed on : November 8 2010

Filed by :

Braden Bowman

233 Summit Pointe Dr.

Somerset KY 42503

Filed against :

D&M Muffler

110 Super Service Dr.

Somerset KY 42501

Complaint Description:

In the Summer of 2008 I took my 2004 Chevrolet Silverado to D&M Muffler for an exhaust leak repair. They did not have the part needed so I purchased it and returned and they installed it. Afterwards I had them install an aftermarket Muffler. The muffler did NOT meet my expectations but it was sufficient. Total Cost Of labor and Muffler 70$ After my first experience I Decided to give D&M another try. On November 23, 2009 I returned to D&M driving my 1977 Datsun Pickup. The trucks exhaust was damaged and it was removed, therefore I needed a complete exhaust from th emanifold back. I supplied the muffler, and they supplied the pipe and labor. Total cost was approx 65$ the pipe was crush bent thus making the pipes effective diameter in the bends less than 1.5 inches. I had requested 2 inch exhaust pipe but they fitted my truck with 1 7/8" pipe. Upon further inspection I found some of the welded joints to be incomplete, the top of the pipe wasnt even welded completely! I did not complain because this exhaust was only temporary and was suffucient for the time being. August 6, 2010 I returned to D&M Muffler to give them one last chance at properly fixing an exhaust on my Datsun Pickup. I had removed all of the previous exhaust and left only the muffler and tailpipe section under the truck. I needed to get my exahust red-done to accompany a brand new engine i had just built that was larger in displacement than my previous engine. Although My engine was still fitted with the same exhaust manifold as before. This time I built a custom 1/4" thick steel Exhaust Flange so that they could olt it to my Manifold and weld new pipe from there back to my old Muffler. I test fitted the custom flange before taking it to D&m to ensure a proper fit. I also supplied a new gasket for the flange. I picked up the truck later that day and pulled out of the parking lot only to find that the new exhaust was rattling against my drivers side torsion bar. Also where the new exhaust pipe met the new it came to a downward point below the cab and was rubbing the ground in some places.TOTAL COST $95.40. I paid with a Check #1069. On My invoice it states they used 4 ft of pipe, although i already had my old pipe under the truck. I returned to D&M a few days later to have the issues addresed, after all they told me if I had any problems whatsoever to come back and they would take care of me. They put my truck on the lift and looked around at the exhaust for a moment. they decided they would take a torch, heat the pipe up, and bend it inwards with a crowbar in order to push it away from the torsion bar. Upon doing so they heated my torsion bar cherry red taking some of the spring out of it (torsion bars hold the truck up using a bar as a spring with tension on it). Also when they pushed on the exhaust with the crowbar they punctured a hole in it, they proceded to weld up the hole leaving a protrusion of metal inside my exhaust pipe. While i was there I had them weld on a different muffler (Which I Supplied), they cahrged me another $10. I left the shop and the pipe still hit the now damaged torsion bar. I returned a few days later and the only employee there told me I would have to return when the owner was there. I asked him for a partial refund so that I could Have my exhaust fixed elsewhere, they denied. In the meantime I inspected my exhaust to find that once again ther were incomplete welds letting my exhaust leak, and make unwanted noise. I returned today today speak with the owner, Mike Strunk. He exclaimed he wished he had never worked on my truck and he wasnt going to help me at all. I did however convinve them to finish welding the pipe to fix the leak. I am now out over 100$ and have a noisy, clunking, down-hanging, improperly welded and installed exhaust. THANKS D&M!!!!! Poor workmanship, poor attitude, poor service. negative 10 Stars for D&M Muffler, 110 Super Service Dr. Somerset Ky. 42501.

Your Desired Resolution:

I demand a full refund, or atleast a new exhaust that doesnt rattle, is welded properly, and the pipe is the correct diamter for my engine displacement. 2.5" for crush bent pipe, or 2" for mandrel bent pipe. They say its impossible to keep it from rattling against my torsion bar, the factory did it 35 years ago. With todays technology why cant they do it now? All I ask is that they fix their mistakes. They Half-Assed my exhaust wrong, the least they could do is Half-Assed do my exhaust right. Beware of D&M and Mike Strunk!

saw some of this stuff and it seems to work great!!!!!! Isky recommends it, for flat tappet cams. CAn you guys get it out west?

http://www.bradpennracing.com/

ZDDP LAB RESULTS

We have seen the question arise on a number of chat rooms and websites about the amount of Zinc and Phosphorous in our Penn Grade 1 High Performance Oils. The questions seem to have arose after a number of people individually sent samples of our products to Blackstone Lab(s) for analysis. The Blackstone report showed a lower Zinc and Phosphorous additive concentration level then our established in house specifications and laboratory results from our ISO 9001:2008 quality control lab proved.

In an effort to clarify any misconception about our product we did our own testing and sent three virgin oil samples (each from the same identical batch) to both Blackstone Lab and Southwest Research Lab for testing. All three Southwest sample results were completely in line with our internal specifications/analysis. The Blackstone zinc and phosphorous results in all three analysis were lower than our internal specifications/analysis and Southwest Research’s lab results. The results for both the Blackstone and Southwest Research analysis are listed below:

Brad Penn Product Blackstone Southwest Research

Penn Grade 1 zinc 1,214 ppm zinc 1,540 ppm

20W-50 #7119 phos 944 ppm phos 1,319 ppm

Penn Grade 1 zinc 1,424 ppm zinc 1,565 ppm

10W-30 #7150 phos 1,139 ppm phos 1,332 ppm

Brad Penn PCMO zinc 689 ppm zinc 1,051 ppm

20W-50 SJ #7123* phos 522 ppm phos 901 ppm

*In some cases we feel our PCMO SAE 20W-50 was sent in for analysis (and not the High Performance Oil SAE 20W-50) which does contain lower Zinc and Phosphorous additive concentration levels.

We feel there is a measurement issue with Blackstone’s oil sample testing and will be addressing this with them. Please feel free to share this information on any chat site or group you belong to.

battery should be available through chevrolet. that is if you just want the ac declo. the part number may have changed. go to a battery store and have them cross the number. also you could get a battery the same size with more output. this would also be a good question for someone at a battery store.

nice!!!

thanks for showing the driveshaft shortening job... thats one of the first "mods" i want to do.

he shortened the steering column shaft. shortening the driveline would effectively seperate it from the differential. sweet welding jig though!!!! nice truck man what is that guys like you do for a living???? i cant even seem to find a pee on job.

wow, nice ride, another awesome datto on the other side of the country!!!!

toyota seat?

i just went to rock auto and everything including 50 bucks shipping was 180 bucks. this included the centerlink with both ends on it, both tie rod assemblys, and an idler arm. i already replaced my shocks but i need the pinto shocks. i would try and do the king pins but from what i understand you have to press out and press in some bushings??? also i did not include the control arm bushings nor the sway bar bushings or end links. that stuff is 20 or 30 bucks.

i did exactly this in my 720 about 6 months ago. i had an awful popping sound so i bought the whole sha-bam from moog/energysuspension.com. wasn't very cheap...think i can get oem parts for my e30 for less. anyways, IIRC, the centerlink has balljoints that hookup either to the inner tie rods or the idler/steering gear. they are built-in to the link so you have to buy the whole bitch. i think it was the most expensive thing i purchased. turns out my c-link balljoints were snug, but i changed it anyways. i had my gear rebuilt too (to fix my sloppy wheel play) but it's about the same, even with a whole new front end. that was extremely disappointing for me. turns out the pop was from an extremely worn lca joint. the thing rides very tight now though, minus the wheel play. the biggest bitch is getting all the stuff OUT. removal of the suspension components took me literally days while the install took me maybe a couple hours. if you don't want to pay for alignment, count your tie rod turns carefully. i did, and hit it dead-on when i had it checked. just my .02

 

if i remember i payed around $500+ for my suspension stuff. i definitely wouldn't have done it all for the results i achieved. if you want any pics of the process, i think i documented it on my phone - just lmk.

 

mike

you shouldnt have to have your steeing gearbox rebuilt, i mean how many turns of the steering wheel before it actually wears the gears??????? your rear end turns a billion trillion times more than your gearbox and it doesnt hardly wear at all. you might need to adjust the gear lash but other than that it shouldnt wear unless you hit something hard with your front end, then maybe you might bust a gear??? mike comment on this please. alsi correct me if i am wrong but the 720 front end uses ball joints and a 620 doesnt? 720's arent king pin are they??? i thought they were coil over? maybe i am wrong. it seems to reason that is why it costs so much more to rebuld the whole front end of a 720 vs a 620.

as far as i could tell everything for the front of a 620 minus king pin kits totals up to like 200 something? maybe less? let me go to rock auto and find out. also can anyone please please please comment on the pinto shock mod????? damn i keep blowing brand new monroes. my rear shocks dont bottom out (that i know of) but my front ones do all the time. i have my bumpstops removed. I swear i will do a how to write up pic heavy if someone tells me what to buy!!!

evansville?