Snoopy76

I know it's mechanics, and I'm cool with that. I'm concerned because it's my DD, and I can't afford to have it down. Oh well, such is life

Darn, I guess I'm just SOL...

I like the idea of thinning the rim, except that my rims are aluminum and have hardened steel pieces in them to be able to use tapered lug nuts. I have thought of going to steel rims, BUT I'M STILL STUCK WITH WHEEL STUDS WITH BOOGERED THREADS!!!!

Ok, Mr. Datzenmike nailed it for a two wheel drive truck. I happen to be working on a 4x4. Sadly most of your description seems a little off from what I'm seeing in the illustrations in my manual. This darn truck is driving me nuts. I dunno who the engineers were who designed the damn thing, but I'm starting to hate them

Ok, so i recently got my '81 720 4x4 KC running, and have been sorting out some issues caused by years of neglect and previous owners mechanical disabilities. My current problem is that a previous owner changed the rims and lug nuts, and didn't bother to get the correct thread pitch lug nuts. And the aluminum rims are really kinda too thick for proper thread engagement, they're only getting about 3/8 inch of engagement, and I'm not really comfortable there. Here's my question..... Does anybody know of a trick to replace the front wheel studs without completely disassembling the front suspension/knuckle/hub assembly like my Haynes manual is suggesting?? The problem I'm currently seeing is that the brake rotor is bolted to the back of the hub behind the wheel studs.... ANYONE????

Man I'd love to join you guys, but I start work at 1800. And my 720 still isn't making smoke.... Got the engine install finalized last weekend, but it's not showing oil pressure, so I'm afraid to fire it off. Gotta spend some more time on it next weekend

I might make a meet soon. Gotta get the engine put back together for my truck...

Actually ggzilla, the size i needed was 7/8", between 3/4" and 1".... That being said, if the location of the hose had been a little more accesible, I probably could have stretched the 3/4" onto the nipples. But it being where it was, I was more comfortable getting the proper size of hose for the application. I got everything back together the other day, but haven't taken it for a ride yet as I've been pretty busy with other projects. Yesterday I was helping a young friend of mine put a stereo in her '83 Mazda B2000..... What a chore!!!

Do you have any experience with installing stereos? Just curious. Anyway, that new stereo should have a mounting cage that the chassis of the stereo slides into and locks it into place. The install instructions on that Kenwood are kinda sketchy. What you can do is measure the depth of your opening, from the front lip of the opening, to whatever the first obstruction the chassis of your chosen deck will be. The depth should be a minimum of six to six and a half inches from the face of the dash to the first obstruction. When it comes to mounting the cage, you can slide it into the dash and mark places to drill some holes to bend tabs into the dash to secure the cage. Another option for getting more advice would be to swing by your favorite local stereo shop and pick the brain of the installers....

Thanks ggzilla. The top of my radiator was cold because it was low on coolant after driving it for less than five miles....... Scary, right?? Sadly, the 0.75 inch heater hose O'Reillys has will almost slide inside the hose I'm trying to replace. And the hose I'm trying to replace will almost slide inside the 1 inch hose. Kinda stuck.... Luckily Carquest said they were able to order me some hose, I've just been too busy to make it down there to pick it up now that it should be in.... And I'll get to the compression test once i have it running again, because I think if i fired the engine now BAD things would happen... like pumping all the oil out of where the filter is supposed to be. Plus theres no coolant in it right now.... makes me think I should wait. Unless someone wants me to video it, and then donate a newer EFI V6.....

Hey Colton, check Craigslist. There was a Weber for sale on there a few days back, used, from a Mazda for $150. Might be the carb you need, then you'd need to make or source an adapter if its not correct

I pressure washed everything the best I could at a local car wash. They probably hate me now. Oh well, I'll get over it. When I got home to look everything over, I noticed that the top of the radiator was cold. Oh shit!! Upon checking the gaskets over, it would appear that the pan gasket is newer, and I know the valve cover gasket is brand new, I replaced it when I adjusted the valves. It looks like the majority of the oil is coming from the front of the crankshaft. What I would call the front main seal. I have undertaken replacing all of the heater and radiator hoses. What a job!! Who would have thought that finding a 10 inch piece of 7/8 (22mm) hose would be so freaking impossible. This seems to be the size needed to go from the lower radiator nipple to a nipple on the underside of the intake manifold. What a pain in the ass!! Having to pull the oil filter to remove and replace this one hose!! I could kill the engineer that thought this was a good idea!

another thought is to make sure that the choke is operating properly....

I love the old Ford dash, but you might play hell getting it out of the truck. I just went and glanced in mine, and it looks to be welded in.... If you do decided to pull the dash, look to LMC Truck or Dennis Carpenter for replacement parts and a new gauge cluster.

Hey there Colton, I would assume it was you I met the other day at Napa.... Either way, welcome to Ratsun!! Anyway, what caught my eye about your post here is that you are saying that it heats up when you drive it. What popped into my head is to check the timing. Seems to me that I remember that if your timing is off, this can cause the heating issue, and problems driving. It also might be good to check your coils cold and when hot.... Then again, I could be WAY off....