Datsunrider71 Posted September 13, 2013 Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 The Hardware Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted September 13, 2013 Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 They did that to me too. Take that cable style linkage off, and replace it with the one off your old carb. 1 Quote Link to comment
Datsunrider71 Posted September 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 Are you talking about this? This really blows smh! Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted September 13, 2013 Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 Yeah, that's what you need. 1 Quote Link to comment
Datsunrider71 Posted September 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 Is it hard to take off and put on Quote Link to comment
Datsunrider71 Posted September 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 And what do I have to use from the old one to put on the new one? Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted September 13, 2013 Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 .... If I remember right, the only issue I had was finding a tool to get down into there... Otherwise, it came right off and went right on... I will go look at mine and get back with you in a minute... Quote Link to comment
Datsunrider71 Posted September 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 .... If I remember right, the only issue I had was finding a tool to get down into there... Otherwise, it came right off and went right on... I will go look at mine and get back with you in a minute... Okay thanks bro always a big help Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted September 13, 2013 Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 Yeah, I'd make sure you soak the old one in some penetrating oil, or put a little heat on it first, then carefully use a large straight blade screw driver. You need to make sure you don't destroy the nut on the old carb, because you need to use it with the linkage for the new carb. You can see in my pic ^above that I re-used the old round nut and lock washer. 1 Quote Link to comment
Datsunrider71 Posted September 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 Yeah, I'd make sure you soak the old one in some penetrating oil, or put a little heat on it first, then carefully use a large straight blade screw driver. You need to make sure you don't destroy the nut on the old carb, because you need to use it with the linkage for the new carb. You can see in my pic ^above that I re-used the old round nut and lock washer. Okay let me see if I can take it off Quote Link to comment
Datsunrider71 Posted September 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 Can I use the nut that came with the weber? The old one is being a pain Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted September 13, 2013 Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 I don't think I was able to get a socket around it with the old linkage setup.... On the old nut,,,, can you get some vice grips on it to break it free, without marring it up too much? Quote Link to comment
Datsunrider71 Posted September 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 Yeah the vice grips are working for now be right back Quote Link to comment
Datsunrider71 Posted September 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 It's off bubby :) 1 Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted September 13, 2013 Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 Good deal. 1 Quote Link to comment
Datsunrider71 Posted September 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 Ready to install?? Any thing else I need to do? I used the new nut it went in like butda Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted September 13, 2013 Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 Good. Just make sure you tune the carb per the instructions. You will appreciate the end results... Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted September 13, 2013 Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 Ready to install?? Any thing else I need to do? I don't remember, were you involve with the conversations on Weber swaps? You could slap it together now... But, I'd double check the float level first. I made sure the adapter plates were surfaced and true. Mine were quite warped out of the box. I also didn't like the gaskets they give you, so I made new gaskets out of better/thicker material. I had to use thread locker on the fasteners for the adapter plates. On my first install, the screws and nuts came loose on the adapter plates. Do you have a fuel pressure regulator? ..... Quote Link to comment
Datsunrider71 Posted September 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 Nope I don't have a regulator do I need one Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted September 13, 2013 Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 That's one of the great debates on here.... If your pressure is greater than what the needle and seat are calibrated for, the fuel will push past the needle and flood the carb... The instructions say you cannot run more than 3.5 psi of fuel pressure. I'm running Weber's fuel pressure regulator plus a fuel pressure gauge so I can keep an eye on it. My stock pump was pushing 4+ psi.... I did a lot of research after buying a cheap junk one from the parts store; This one is fully adjustable, and totally reliable. I tried the cheap ones from the parts stores, and none of them would regulate under 4 psi. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weber-Redline-Carburetor-Universal-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator-1-5-20-psi-/271124944592#vi-content 1 Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted September 13, 2013 Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 If your carb doesn't have an idle cut-off switch, you will probably need one. The L series engine seems to have issues with "run-on" or "dieseling". This switch prevents that. http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/product_p/43914.060.htm It goes into the upper jet port on the valve cover side of the carb. Did you buy a manual choke carb or electric choke? If you have an electric choke carb, you can just pig tail a wire from the choke to the switch.... Quote Link to comment
Datsunrider71 Posted September 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 That's one of the great debates on here.... If your pressure is greater than what the needle and seat are calibrated for, the fuel will push past the needle and flood the carb... The instructions say you cannot run more than 3.5 psi of fuel pressure. I'm running Weber's fuel pressure regulator plus a fuel pressure gauge so I can keep an eye on it. My stock pump was pushing 4+ psi.... I did a lot of research after buying a cheap junk one from the parts store; This one is fully adjustable, and totally reliable. I tried the cheap ones from the parts stores, and none of them would regulate under 4 psi. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weber-Redline-Carburetor-Universal-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator-1-5-20-psi-/271124944592#vi-content I will buy the same then but fit now can I run my car with out that Quote Link to comment
Datsunrider71 Posted September 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 I got a Manual one Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted September 13, 2013 Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 I don't know if it will run well, but you probably won't hurt anything to run it now. The biggest concern is your idle set screw. I don't have the instructions in front of me, but you don't want the idle set screw turned in more than something like 1 full turn, from the point at which it just touches the throttle lever. If it's turned in more than one turn you need adjustments on the fuel pressure, float, or jets.... This can also cause the "dieseling" issues. All the info is in the instructions... They aren't that clear thought, I had to read them a few times.... Quote Link to comment
Datsunrider71 Posted September 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 I don't know if it will run well, but you probably won't hurt anything to run it now. The biggest concern is your idle set screw. I don't have the instructions in front of me, but you don't want the idle set screw turned in more than something like 1 full turn, from the point at which it just touches the throttle lever. If it's turned in more than one turn you need adjustments on the fuel pressure, float, or jets.... This can also cause the "dieseling" issues. All the info is in the instructions... They aren't that clear thought, I had to read them a few times.... I will give it a look see. So where Dose that cut out thing goes? Quote Link to comment
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