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79 210 emissions delete and weber carb upgrade


ofg

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DEQ? I dunno. Fortunately for me, there are no emissions checks where im at. Not clearly obvious in the photos,, but the entire egr tube is removed, heat flapper in ex manifold is gone, giant carbon canister and funny snail shell air pump filter thing are gone, all vacuum switches, solenoids, diverter valves and such are gone.

 

Only vacuum attachments will be for distributer advance, right off the carb, and I am going to plumb in a mini charcoal canister for the fuel tank vent. thats it. Oh, yeah,, the pcv system might get plumbed in too. For now the pcv and tank vent goto atmosphere. I know,, bad. Not going to stay that way though. I just have to figure them out.

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Success! I drove the 210 red rocket around today. Only adjustment has been to give a bit more slack to the throttle cable atthe carb linkage. This makes the throttle response a bit smoother. Drives great! Idles down perfectly!

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Success! I drove the 210 red rocket around today. Only adjustment has been to give a bit more slack to the throttle cable atthe carb linkage. This makes the throttle response a bit smoother. Drives great! Idles down perfectly!

 

So you dig it? Would you recommend the upgrade? I hear so many different opinions on this mod O.o

 

Don't forget update us on your "mini canister" i'm very curious

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I'm very happy with the carb. My car was barely drivable when I got it due to having a hacked and botched running system. I mean carb, emissions, loose exhaust, vacuum, fuel management.. it was all messed up yet still ran! So, to me, the newly sorted systems makes a total excellent package. I don't know how much of that is the actual weber carb.

 

Seat of the pants tells me that it has a bit better throttle response, and seems to run good and crisp at any rev range. It aint fast though. Got to lay into the go pedal to get out of the way of traffic. Its probably almost as quick as a 91 civic 4 door wagon,, almost!

 

100% honest though,, the biggest improvement is that the car now idles down, and stays running by itself. Most of that is from plugging vacuum leaks. When I say vacuum leaks,, I mean the stock manifolds were loose,, carb was loose from its riser,, riser was loose from manifold, plenty of traditional leaks too like vacuum ports just left open...

 

I have worked on weber carbs before, so it seemed easier for me to just tear it all down and start from scratch, rather than try to diagnose and fix the stock system. Pretty sure the stock carb is in good tune.

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I got her going about 45 minutes before you guys got into town. Last thing to do was take it for a spin and let the choke warm up to see if all that stuff was going to work. I ended up using the "blue" wire, as it was the only one that came on with car running. The rest of the wires in that bundle are just dead. It also shuts off with the car off, so the electric choke works good.

 

Just hope my wife dosent spaz out when she sees the green goon!

 

Thanks very much for the delivery! Was great meeting you and family. Next time Im heading up your way to peruse that JY!

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Small update on my emissions delete. I had been wanting to plumb in a smaller fuel vapor canister. Here it is! Model airplane fuel tank, with gasoline specific stopper in the end. These have small brass tubes inside. Tubes are pinched smaller so as to not allow any carbon pieces into the engine. Also uses a small screen filter. Carbon is from the pet store,, just regular old activated charcoal. So, the fuel tank vent line goes in, and is routed into the carbon. Outgoing line is separated from the ingoing by about 2" on the inside,, and then it goes into the air cleaner through a hole that was intended for egr, pcv or something.

 

The amount of vacuum allowed is very very slight. It will be constant,, but hopefully will not affect running. I used 1/8" ID rubber hose and pinched the brass tubes pretty good so that its minimal suction.

 

Main reason for doing this is the factory unit was huge, heavy, and just looked clumsy in there,, plus it was half broke..

 

Not sure if my tank vent even does anything. I have been running with it capped off, and didnt seem to be a problem. This little tank is clear enough so I should be able to tell if it gets saturated.

 

datsun2101979034.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

I only have 3 hoses going into the new carb. Fuel line, which can only go in one way,, Distributer advance which is the ONLY vacuum port on the entire carb, and then the fuel vapor vent that goes into a ready made hole in the air filter assembly. Thats it. All other hoses were removed. All the remaining vacuum ports were either sealed with a brass plug or capped off with a rubber plug.

 

The last picture in this thread shows the fuel line curved into the left side of the carb. Fuel vapor vent lines start in lower left of the pic. One line goes into the metal fuel tank vent line, and the smaller one goes into the bottom of the air cleaner assembly. Now look in the upper right of the picture. There is a black line running over the blue valve cover and ducking behind the carb in the middle of it. That goes from the distributer, right over the valve cover and into the port on the bottom of the carb. its the only vacuum port on the carb.

 

Once you get your new carb, it will be a bit more self explanatory. Very easy, and no way you could mess it up.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Couldnt really tell you. After getting the engine bay all done, I started on the interior, and its been in pieces for about 3 weeks now. After installing the vapor canister, my gas gauge started working again, and for about 20 miles of driving the needle hardly moved at all. Its only got about 1/4 of a tank or less.

 

Before getting the throttle cable adjusted well, it got into the secondary a bit too quick, and was running rich. I think its pretty important to have a nice gradual introduction to the secondary barrel. otherwize, it feels over carbed. A wimpy little A series should run mostly on the primary barrel, with the secondary only opening at higher revs and hard throttle.

 

Seems to me, if its set up properly the weber carb should get about the same mileage as a stock carb. But, I havent got any data to support that. As far as i can tell, it just runs a whole lot better now! Which would indicate that its not running too too rich, or too too lean. It seems to be right in the zone, so probably similar to a stock carb in over all tuning.

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