1979 620

[Trashdatsun]

Ok so here is the story, I got this truck some months ago foolishly thinking I had the skill to deal with it. It had been sitting for about five years and after I turned it over by hand and changed all the fluids I had it running, in fact it ran great, but then it stopped running unless you hand fed it. So changed the filters, tested the pump, pulled the needle valve out and cleaned that filter. Nothing, still wont run, so I suppose a carb rebuild is in order. Never done one before and frankly I am intimidated as it has the emission shit still all over it.

 

 

1. Am I jumping the gun on the rebuild considering it ran fine before, as I imagine, some crap from the tank got into the carb, is there anything else I am overlooking?

 

2. How much of the emission shit can I throw out, do some of those tubes remain necessary for the operation of the motor?

 

3. Should I just try to find another carb and try bolting it on?

 

Thank you all in advance.

 

[KC Phirus]

If it's the stock Hitachi. A weber would be a good replacement.

Rockauto,com has rebuild kit for hitachi. 13$ i think

Just rebuilt mine and it works great.

 

For emission bullshit use the search function.

Been covered

[Trashdatsun]

Thanks i'll look deeper for the emissions question.

[KC Phirus]

Hmmmm someone should do a write up on emissions deletion

[Trashdatsun]

When re installing the needle valve assembly, how do you know how far to thread the brass housing into the carb? It was loose enough to turn when I started messing with it, is this an adjustment function of some sort?

[KC Phirus]

There are several. Not sure which you are talking about.

If it's the mixture scew on Side of carb (under linkages) Turn it tight (just finger tip tight) Then back it out 2 - 2 1/2 turns.

[Trashdatsun]

The valve assembly I am talking about is the one that receives fuel from the pump, inside of which is the carbs internal fuel filter. The filter housing has a bolt on top that allows access to the filter, beneath this housing is a brass fitting that contains the needle valve. This brass fitting is threaded into the carb which suggests that the depth to which you thread it in might adjust the height of the needle in relation to the float. Am I correct in this line of thought?

[Trashdatsun]

As a different line of thinking, is there a vacuum hose I could be overlooking? With all the defunct emission crap on the engine something might have gotten pulled out.