Icoblue

I'm interested, PM me, I'd like better pics. Shipping to 99336?

Where you at? $75 cash if you're within a reasonable distance from Tri-Cities, WA. PM me.

I'd be very interested in a set for my KC.

What are your plans for colors? You'd said you were doing gray, is this a single color deal or will you make other colors available? Nothing too crazy, I'd just like black.

How bad was the 620 when you got it back?

As the post and the description say, I have a Weber 32/36 DGEV. I don't have the adapter plate to make it fit an L16 manifold. I need one.

Respond or email with price, including shipping to 99336.

Thanks!

What's wrong with the header? I haven't tried matching it up yet, but it came off an L20 truck. I don't see why it wouldn't work. I do realize that it's not going to do much for engine performance, but it was free, what do you want?

Izzo, I'll take that adapter, I need to get this Weber on my truck. Something is definitely wrong with that Hitachi. IM me with PayPal email and I'll kick it over. Plus then I can get rid of that shitty stock air cleaner housing.

I guess nobody had any input today? If anyone knows what I might be doing wrong with this carb, I'd definitely appreciate the help. Spent most of the day pulling parts off of that BMW. Cut and test fit the front piece of the headliner in the 620 today, as soon as I get it fit in there, I'll post a couple pics. Eventually I'll mold it in with a new headliner, but for now I'm going to basically pin it in. It's going to add a new center pad on the roof that has a new dome and 2 map lights, as well as a sunroof switch, which I'm sure I'll find some use for. I also contains and hides the wiring for the automatic lighted mirrors on the back of the BMW sun visors which are going into the 620.

Then later on I got bored and added this to the tailgate.

It's actually painted on in metallic green, but it's impossible to tell in the dark. Turned out pretty good, shame it's going to go away when I repaint the truck. I'm sure it'll find its way back on there somewhere.

Alright, so some of you have already seen a couple of my posts elsewhere on the site, but I have plans to turn this little yellow bastard into something special.

The background: I picked this truck up for $550 in a condition good enough that it drove from Walla Walla to Tri-Cities, WA with no help. It was real ugly at the time, but it's getting better, slowly but surely. I'll post some pics later. When I got it, it pulled pretty bad to the left. I pulled the brakes apart and found out that someone had put the shoes on wrong. Fixed. It still pulls to the left, but not bad. The steering is very loose, I probably need to replace the entire steering box, but that's alright because I have a spare for most of the parts on the truck, thanks to a '79 parts truck I picked up for $50 out of the woods in Chehalis, WA.

Here's the engine bay as it was when I got it.

Not pretty, but everything worked except the brakes. They'd stop you, but it took about 200 feet at 60 MPH. Those were the first things to get treated. I replaced the master cylinder with a reman that I picked up on Craigslist ($4), one wheel cylinder ($2), the front drums and shoes. I had to replace the wheel cylinder "Y" connection on the left rear in order to bleed it (someone had broken the bleeder screw off at the threads and pounded a wooden dowel into it to stop the ensuing leak), and tested and painted the vacuum booster. I'll post some pics later of the finished product. It looks nice now, and stops like a champ. Discs are still in the plans for the future, but for now it does all right.

The door has also been replaced and primed (the one good piece of sheet metal on the parts truck), mostly to cut down on the noise at freeway speed. I'll post pics of that, later.

I picked up the deal of the decade on Craigslist on Wednesday. I paid $400 for a Weber 32/36 and a Turner header, and it came with this free BMW!

Actually, I bought the car with a scrap affadavit (trans is missing, everything else is there), mostly for the wheels that were on it, and the guy's license didn't allow him to sell parts, so he threw them in with the car. The wheels are going on my black E46 that's in the background of the first pic, and I'm thinking about trying to put the dash in the 620. The BMW seats are definitely going in there as soon as I can get ahold of a welder to make some brackets for the seat rails.

So here are my current problems with the truck:

1. Getting no power and only 20 MPG with the L16 motor and L20 carb that are in it.

2. High idle (2200 RPM)

3. Can't get the Weber on it without an adapter plate.

I tried messing with the timing and the carb today to get a little of the power that this thing should have. I borrowed my neighbor's timing light and dwell/tach and his expertise using it. This is both my first carbureted vehicle and the first i've owned that had a points dizzy. So I pulled the cap and found out that someone has converted this thing to a single point instead of the stock dual points. Bonus there, I have read that the Datto duals sucked. Next I checked the vacuum advance by hooking up a vacuum tester. Smooth through full travel 5 times, and held 12" of 20" vaccum applied over 10 minutes. Definitely good enough. I hooked up the timing light and tried to find the mark on the crank pulley. Lo and behold! There are actually two exactly identical notches in the crank pulley , within an inch of one another. Eventually I'll have to find out which one is actually TDC, but for now, I fired up the light and used the one that was closest to the 12* this thing was supposed to be at. Turns out, it was at about 20* BTDC, with no adjustment left. We were scratching our heads until we found the coarse adjustment and saw that it had slipped and was all the way to one side. we centered it and adjusted to 12*, which brought the revs down a bit, but not enough. Also checked the dwell angle, and found 44*, which is close enough to the 46* it's supposed to be at that I don't feel like adjusting it at the moment.

Started messing with the carb. Immediate observations:

1. The choke plate looks like it's not opening fully. Loosened the screws on the choke cover and adjusted best we could, but it still doesn't go more than about 15*-20* from vertical.

2. Sprayed carb cleaner all around the intake manifold seal and the carb to manifold seal, no change in revs. I don't think it's a leak.

3. After having read a couple of DatzunMike's posts, checked the vacuum secondary, and pushed down on the rod there. If it moved at all, it made no difference in revs. Looking from the top, it doesn't look open at all.

4. This carb just sucks.

After messing with it for about a half hour, I got the revs to back down to almost exactly 800, which required turning the idle adjusting screw all the way in (soft-seated). Interesting, but my rudimentary understanding of carbs tells me that it shouldn't run at all like this. Anyway, being at 800, i took this chance to check my timing again, which is now at about 10* BTDC. Adjusting it now would only cause my idle to rise again, so I left it alone and gave it a few punches and slow climbs on the throttle to see how the response was. The response was decent, but when I let off the throttle, it wouldn't return to 800 RPM. Checked it, and now idling about 1900 RPM, still with the idle adjusting screw soft-seated (clockwise).

I'm at a loss, so I gave up for the day, pending advice from all you great Datsuners here. Let me know what you think, and hopefully someone knows what I might be missing entirely. Also, if anyone has an adapter plate for that Weber, I'd like to get it on my truck.

Hey thanks for all the help, guys. I kinda figured this carb didn't belong to this motor, and it's always nice hearing "mickey mouse" in reference to a vehicle you just bought. Lol. Regarding the red wire for the idle cut, there's another wire, white, that's cut, even though the harness has a matching wire. Is this emissions? Do I need it?

Anyway, I got the shoes switched, it isn't pulling anymore, but the brakes aren't so great. I picked up a great deal on craigslist and got 2 new wheel cylinders, a reman brake master cylinder, 4 new front wheel seals and 2 clutch slave cylinder rebuild kits all for $28 shipped. When I pull the motor, I'm going to also pull the master cylinder and replace it, check the vacuum booster, flush all the hard lines, add new DOT4 fluid and bleed.

I've gotten everything under the hood disconnected in preparation for pulling the motor this weekend, I just have to drain and disconnect the trans, then I'll be ready to pull the whole deal. It looks like the center tire rod is going to have to come out to pull the motor and trans a unit. Anyone know if that is so?

I'm taking pics during the project so you guys can see the progress, if you guys have comments or suggestions, they're always welcome.

Also, if a mod wants to move this thread somewhere it may better belong?

Thanks for the help. If it's digital, would you mind posting or emailing me that diagram so I can add it to my quickly growing collection?

It's not really related, but how can I identify my carb? I have a 77 with an L16, which if I am not very much mistaken means that it isn't the original motor. No telling what may be on there. Here's a couple pics of the carb. This is also my first carbeurated vehicle, so I really have no idea what I'm looking at, other than the basic workings of a carb. Is there a thread somewhere about how to identify parts?

I took a couple pics, sorry for the poor lighting on the passenger side, but I've outlined the narrow portions of the shoes so you can see what I'm talking about.

Hey guys, new member here, recently picked up a '77 Bulletside 620 and already loving it, but it needs some love. I'll post pics later.

Right now, the largest problem with the truck is that it pulls to the left when braking. I'm pretty sure I've figured out why, but I still have a problem. My experience with drum brakes is very limited (I don't ever get a vehicle with them unless I have to). I know that the shoes have a leading and a trailing edge for forward rotation, my question is which one is which on the 620's? I pulled both front wheels and drums to diagnose my braking issue, and behold! the shoe setup doesn't match from side to side! The shoes have one narrower end and one full width flat end. On the driver's side, they are pointed narrow to wide. On the passenger side, both narrow ends are facing each other at the wheel cylinder.

Now, obviously, the 2 narrow ends shouldn't point at each other, but now I can't be sure that the guy who put these shoes on knew his ass from a hole in the ground! So, rather than just making the passenger side look like the driver's side, I'm trying to figure out the EXACT setup of these shoes so I can put them on with the correct orientation. I'm running out the door in a minute, but I'll take some pics and post them when I get back. Any pics of a proper configuration would be helpful.

Thanks!