521miscreant

Its where the passenger side floorboard curves up into the transmission tunnel and up towards the firewall. Pic is taken from the bottom. The cab is upright resting on the back window side. I'm pretty sure it is a dent, but it is so clean and there wasn't any damage to the paint where it was at, so it has me second guessing. Yup. I had a light underneath. I think I picked the most difficult part to repair since it has the curve going down on the right and also a bend in the middle from top to bottom. It's not perfect, but I didn't want to let perfect be the enemy of good enough.

So wanted to confirm...this is a dent and not the way it should be... I'm hoping to get he floor all cleaned up to I can put the cab back on the frame soon. Feel free to bash my welding job.

I'm still alive and working on this. I cleaned up this ugly patch. I'm guessing the accelerator pedal broker through or something. New to welding so it took me a while.

Super nice truck. I would have thought you'd get more...but just seems to depend on who is looking at the time. Seems like a steal for something you can daily drive with no issues.

This is the Silvermine kit. I got the cheaper one that is not Wilwood. It's based on D21 brakes and they send you remanufactured calipers. With the Wilwood ones the calipers stick out 1 inch past the wheel mounting surface, so wheel fitment can be tricky. These only stick out about 1/4 inch..so will be easier to fit a wheel and it is a dual piston caliper so should be a big improvement on stopping power.

This got did today. And now onto the belly of the beast. Plan is to get that painted and while the paint cures I can finish up the chassis stuff. Underneath the grease/oil, the metal is completely rust free.

Does that work well with Steel lines? I'm gonna redo the fuel lines too once I decide what I am doing for and engine. I'm thinking the fuel lines should be steel.

It took me a few rounds to learn some tricks, but I finally got the rear axle brake line done. At first I started with too much material above the flaring tool so the flare was to big, then I didn't have enough material to fit the coupler on and still have enough to put in the flaring tool. I finally put the coupler on and did the flare for the starting end and then did the bends until I got to the end and did the last flare. This also worked much better than trying to bend the line to match the old line off the truck. Its not as pretty as I want it to be, so I might redo it at some point, but it works. I think I went from apprentice to journeyman level at some point today. Y'all should buy some stock in the company that makes these brake lines. I still have more to go.

I've still got the bearings. Everything was bagged and tagged when it came off. I'll cut the column. @gh0stwerx76 & @mrbigtanker you're right. As far as welds go it shouldn't be to complicated. I think I was just head faking myself a little. The benefit will be worth it.

Will that just both in without mods? Was wondering, as I think they would have the collapsible steering columns. Not sure if anybody has done that.

I'm not comfortable trying to weld on front clips or anything like that. I probably will check around to see if I can find a machine shop or metal place that can take a couple inches off the steering column. That would actually make it a little roomier in the cab and decrease to odds of me being turned into a skewer in an accident. I bought a mig/tig/stick welder, which I plan to use for some of the body repair when I get to that stage, but I wouldn't want to weld frame/chassis stuff on my car. I will try to get my welding skills up...but that will take some time. Maybe I can find a friend I don't like and offer to help them weld something. ☠️ By the way...was reading on another chain where some of the old schoolers on here were talking about bending the brake lines with their hands (and a can of peas). I was about to lose my $%#& trying to use a bending tool...was able to use just my hands for most of it and the bending tool a couple times and finish the line on the rear axle in about 20 minutes. There is a lot of value from those contributing here. I appreciate it.

How would I go about that? Do mean cut it shorter and then have the end machined with the splines? I fit pretty good but would be nice If I could move my seat a little further forward so the Vegas can be pumpin". I'm one notch away form all the way back as it is now.

I ordered the kit from Silvermine that doesn't have the caliper that sticks out way past the face of the disc. I got some grey hairs trying to stop this thing when I drove it home. The floors are solid so I can't Fred Flintstone it in a pinch.

I bought this last November. I has a post about whether I should try to swap a KA or go with a L motor. For now I am putting that on hold but I wanted to start a clean post for my build. I have been busy. Things took longer because the weather was unusually wet last spring. I dismantled the truck completely and striped the frame down with a wire wheel and sandblaster, repainted everything in 3 coats of frame paint and I am now starting to put it back together. There was years of caked on junk that had to be removed. For now, I am planning to build it back basically stock, so I can drive it a bit, but I will probably end up doing some more significant modifications as time goes on. Trying to decide if I do lowering block and re-index in the meantime. It would be easy now. This is a project for me with no timeline. Anyways, here we go!

Get it. Got it. Appreciate your comments and as mentioned above...I'm aware of the other posts. I'm not gonna disparage anyone here who I have not completed a business transaction with. If I get what I expected then cool. If its a shit show I'll obviously be here to tell the story and you'll all have the chance to tell me I told you so. Hopefully everything works out...if not...live and learn.