JumboFett

Yes, but in my case there’s a misalignment that’s been present since the previous owner (I recently caught it). I suppose I can just remove the centerlink bar and fix the misalignment… I think I just talked myself into the solution. *face palm*

Hey y’all, just picking up on this thread four years later. RA sells an adjustable right side tie rod assembly (DELPHI TL514), which will make dialing in toe alignment much easier. It’s obviously not based on an original tie rod though. Does anyone have any experience using it? Thanks!

Check er out, boys!!

Way ahead of you! I’m already using electric fans. I still don’t trust electric WPs though. I could use a single belt March Pulley system, so I could mid-height mount the alternator. That way I have no steering or water inlet hose interference.

Definitely not interested in AC for what could be considered the equivalent of a mini rat-rod build. Windows down at speed would be fine. I researched the engine dimensions of the v6 and what I’ve found is: 25.4”Lx21.4”Hx21.5W (Wp snout to flywheel, Oil pan to carb top, and valve cover to valve cover). It’s about 200lbs heavier, but stripping the AC comp, PS pump, and fan clutch; and swapping in an aluminum manifold, aluminum WP, and steel headers should reduce weight by at lease 100lbs. I’ve already relocated my battery to a battery box in the truck bed, so vehicle balance is doing well so far. If I can tuck the engine close to the firewall and a little lower I can redistribute the weight and CoG. I’d have to fab motor mount supports, but I’d have access to SBC motor mounts which are varied, cheap, and plentiful. The headers are a concern, but that’s probably a smaller issue than I think. My primary fascination is the ease at which I can get 300ft.lb torque out of this 4.3L with off the shelf SBC parts. No fussing with high compression NA L-engines or aspirations of Turbocharging. Just easy-peasy, get in and go, pump gas all day power with decent manners.

Ha! The least amount of cutting or welding possible please.

Hey y’all, I’m in the mood to revive a 6 year old thread! I think Mike answered the spirit of the question on page 1, just seeking greater clarity, is it possible/plausible to swap a gen-1 GM v6 4.3L into a 620?? Forget reusing the Nissan trans for this query, a Tremec 5spd would do fine. Thank you 🙏

Good video! I’m guessing the application that would work for our engines is measuring off the valve retainer? Obviously there’s no lifter, but would there be another spot on these OHC engines?

When I had the engine apart I verified TDC using my dial indicator, then after I put the head on marked TDC on the pulley and the timing plate, so I’m confident their in alignment. Nevertheless, I trusted the advice of placing the cam dowel on the 2nd sprocket hole, though I was told that would advance the cam 4°, which is what I wanted. Because I was advised not to worry about degreeing the cam I trusted the process and set it there. What I was hoping to see was the cam sprocket cutout just slightly ahead of the static timing mark, but it was dead on. I tried placing it on the 1st and 3rd marks, but there was no difference, so I put it back to the 2nd hole and it’s been there since. I’ve heard horror stories about those adjustable cam sprockets, so I’ll probably stay away from them, but the cam bushings sound promising, so I’ll keep those in mind for the future high compression engine. Right now I’m working with an 8.5:1 motor with a much better flowing head and a slightly more aggressive cam profile, so my margin for error is wide. Still, I wish I had more adjustment options when I had it apart so I could tighten my IVC angle ABDC in order to maximize cranking pressure. Confirming ICL according to the reported cam specs is all well and good, but I’m most interested in when my intake valve closes, which will become especially important in any serious future engine plans. And of course… Thank you both for your help!

I do have a hot cam and I’m always hoping to maximize the utility of my components! I take it you’re saying that degreeing a datsun cam is the same practice as degreeing a Chevy cam?

Hopefully by the time I’m ready to build a hot 2.3L I’ll have collected a Z22 block rendering my trepidation moot. On another note, I’ve been very curious about something else. Besides lining up timing marks with dowels why don’t we degree datsun camshafts with an actual timing wheel? There’s a lot of info in a cam profile and installation. Trusting the dowels just feels naive.

Gains in reliability and drivability are really what I’m after if I’m investing time and money into a performance build. Like, if I was a sponsored race team I’d be all about pushing the limits to the ragged edge, but I’m not, I’m just a man with a truck and a passion for sick weekend burnouts. Also, I’m trying to stick with my L-block, hence my trepidation on boring out to 89mm. Though, it’s probably not a big deal if I did.

Sorry, z22e was a mistake. I meant the z20e (n85-152.5mm) rods. Still, your point is well taken. I’ve built a couple L-series top ends, but never a bottom end yet; most of my engine building experience has been with Chevy and Ford SB and BB. My primary concern with the 89mm bore is making the cylinder walls too thin. I don’t want to sacrifice longevity for short-term performance and I don’t want to use another block if I don’t have to, so my best thinking leaves me compromising with 87mm. Also, I already have the ARP studs, so they’re getting used regardless. My first car was a 280z, and I love that I get to relearn everything about them including smart engine designs. As always, thank you for all your advice. Finally, to answer your opening question, my goal is to build a strong, reasonably reliable, hot street engine that puts as much power to the wheels while adhering to those factors. If I was to give it a number I’d say 180-200whp with a fat powerband/torque curve.

Definitely worth consideration. I have a 219 head sitting in a box, but my U67 is already fairly built and has a .460 lift cam. I’m also already using ARP studs, so those would carryover. The more I think about it the more I might wanna stay in the 10.75:1 range. Most of my driving will be in the midrange, and I wanna keep a nice fat street power-band. I am still curious about the 219. Do the SSS heads flow better, do they have a fast burn chamber, or are they simply only notable for the tighter quench and large intake runners?

Because I’ll be using an L-block do you know if machining an oil squirter modification is possible?