Connor Snyder

Its been a minute since I first posted this. I've narrowed it down to the dimmer switch. But when I try and bypass it instantly blows the 10 amp fuse. I even put a 20 amp fuse in for testing and it instantly blows that too. Anyone know why it might do this? I've seen on old forums other people bypass them and never have any issue. I really don't wanna pay 120 for a new dimmer that's something I really don't care to have.

I have a 1992 d21 that my gauge backlights do not work. I have the clock and hvac control backlights and all the warning light bulbs work. Every other light on the truck works just fine. I've replaced all the bulbs in the cluster and verified that the headlight switch is good. My next idea was the dimmer switch. I removed it and decided to try and jump the pins on the connector to try and make the lights turn on. They still did not so I believe the dimmer is fine as well. At this point I'm lost and hope someone else might have an idea.

Yeah the rear isn't a worry at all. The only issue I see what indexing the torsion bars is the camber. I would have to get a longer upper arm I believe

Lift spindles would be perfect If they still exist. Does anyone know what brand those were or who sold them?

Does anyone know of a lift kit for a 2wd? Or If oem 4wd front suspension will bolt on? On my 82 I have a 2 Inch body lift on mine with sto k suspension but I would love to get rid of the body lift and achieve my ride height with suspension.

I just run the 16 inch on my own. There plenty big enough that I can see fine and don't have to worry about stressing out the components

I know this is a little off the subject. But do you know if the bigger z24 rad will go in my z22 trucks? z22 rads are absolutely not avaliable anymore but I can get the z24 rad easy

Yeah I took welding courses a few years ago but I don't have a good welder at the moment so I would probably have someone else with a better welder do it for me

I already ordered a part with splines on both ends. The length has been a worry for me. As that's the reason my original rag joint isn't going to work for me anymore. If I have to do machining I can do that but it will have to wait till I get my 92 back on the road.

And do you mean the ones that adapt it from splines to DD? Cause if this doesn't work I was thinking that would work. Or get one where I weld one end on but I want to avoid welding

I honestly didn't understand the instructions so we just kinds figured it out as we went.

I did order a borgeson one from Amazon. Do you remember the spline count? I can't take mine apart to count it because right now it's my only vehicle to get me to work. I found somewhere it might be 36 spline. So I ordered a 36 spline one

I know this thread is old but I just wanna highlight these things do fail. It happened in my 82 when it only has 190k miles on it. The joint ripped and I lost all steering

That looks totally foreign to me when I put my weber on my 82 we flipped the linkage on the carb and used the stock throttle cable bracket and it's worked totally fine. I didn't even understand how they wanted me to use the new bracket they supplied. Although I think they supplied me with a bracket for an l series engine because the bracket was the wrong orientation for the z series.

Has anyone done this conversion on there 720? My 82 2wd has a 2 inch body lift installed and because of this the safety pins on the rag joint are not long enough now. So i see this as a safety hazard and want to convert to a u joint. Now the body lift kit instructed me to cut the fire wall and move the steering column I assume to solve this issue but I absolutely did not want to do that. I did order a part just now that might be the correct one. Won't be here for a week if it happens to fit I will make sure to let everyone know.