kudu

when it was idling they were open, no all the way but they were open

also with the mix screw on the carb basically all the way in is the mid 13s i was getting for the AFR. unscrewing it would drop it down below 13 into the 12s and still with 10 on vac

i went to adjust the valves and i got the notch lined up on the crank pulley but the cam “1” is slightly off to the left of straight up and down. Yet on the cam gear there are three “V” notches that I can see through the four holes on the gear yet there isn’t one that’s behind the hole closest to the 1 on the gear. I’m not sure where to go from here since I don’t know if the cam is off since i have nothing to go off of to line up with the sprocket notch. any ideas?

i did just do a compression test on the motor and it threw 75 65 65 70 which makes me believe that that could be the cause of my issue. am i off on this? It does have an iske cam in it that the previous owner put in so i was going to ensure timing was right but let me know what you think

one of the rods on the carb bent that moves the upper butterflies and it was causing them to bind open sometimes and make a scrapping noise. it does have the electric choke but it isn’t wired up. that’s how i got the truck so i assumed it was fine that way. the fuel filter is new. the accelerator pump squirts fuel on the pull of the bellcrank i can watch it do that.

I have a weber 32/36 on my l20b with an iske cam in it for some reference. For some context I was driving my truck for a few months with no issues but started to see some binding in the carb so i let it sit for a few weeks while getting the part and swapped out the bent arm. After putting the carb back on it starts up and idles great, but when you put it in gear and start to move it pops and dies. It floats around mid 13s at idle on my afr and has 10 in hg of vacuum(seems low to me). This is with my mix screw almost all the way in, with it further out it’s in the 12s and vacuum basically stays at 10. all of the wheels spin and nothing seems to be locked up. I’be talked to a few people but it’s net nothing in return. Anyone have any ideas what could be going on?

All of the hard lines seem good going to the tank. I mean they’re not perfect but there doesn’t look to be any cracks or holes in them that could be letting in air. I tried starting it up the other day to try and diagnose it and now it wouldn’t even idle where as before it would idle fine just not drive good but it has a known good carb on it so I would assume it may be tank related. Do I seem to be thinking correctly?

I went to go start my truck up after a few weeks of sitting waiting on a part and it wouldn't start. I saw that there was no fuel in the filter so I assumed it wasn't getting fuel for some reason. I went through the system checks starting with running an external tank of fuel between all of the points going back from the carb and could get it to run from all of them. I assumed it was either a rust line/hose somewhere under the truck since I could run the truck externally with a line before it went into the filter. For shits and giggles I hooked everything up as it would normally go and the truck would start and idle like normal with no issues. When trying to go up my driveway that's on a hill it had very little power going up it with the front facing the up hill, but when I turned the truck around and tried backing up it it seemed to have more power. I'll be grabbing a fuel pressure gauge from my work tomorrow where I can just T into it and watch it while the truck is running, but while I wait for tomorrow to come does anyone have anything different it may be that I can consider to check tomorrow? I'm leaning towards the pickup being the problem, be it rusted and broken or something else with it. I have yet to fully examine the lines underneath the body which I'll be doing tomorrow as well just to start eliminating stuff that it isn't. Also I assume the tank needs to be dropped on these trucks right to get to the pickup and what not? ('78 if that matters)

oh okay that makes completely sense. I took that carb apart for basically nothing lol I fixed the noise so I guess that’s a plus. I’m back to my original problem though of having no fuel coming to the carb. This is the original reason I pulled that carb since I thought that was the problem but obviously it wasn’t. Basically I drove it all weekend and it drove perfect but I go to start it on that next tuesday and nothing. It has spark and with some brake clean it will fire but die immediately. I pulled some of the lines off of the filter and fuel pump and carb just to see if they were wet with fuel and they weren’t so I presume it’s a supply problem. Basically new to these so is there a decent place to start with this? Yes it has fuel first thing I did. I assume I should start with lines. I’ll try hooking it up to an external gas tank and see if it’ll suck up the fuel and I guess just work my way back

Is this how much the top butterflies should be open at WOT? seems not enough to me but i’ve never messed with one of these before now so i’m not sure. The bottom butterflies fully open in succession to each other like one goes half way and then the other starts to move and then there both fully open

just realized what i did wrong when looking at that photo lol I had the elbow on that flat metal piece on the wrong side of the swivel piece. Sorry if I sound like a first grader with this terminology

it’s genuine

Yeah it is basically brand new I was surprised it was making noise as well. So i can get the top part to sit fully down on the base and the electric choke bolt holes to line up but the swivel piece that the rod connects to is hitting the top part of the carb seen in the photo below. I assume I have something connected wrong but can’t tell where.

I'm currently rebuilding my weber 32/36 to try and diag a scrapping sound when the butterflies open. While going back together I wasn't able to connect the rod/piece of metal from what I assume is the secondaries(new to the these carbs so not 100% sure what everything is) to what I think is the electric choke section. I can get those two connected but when bolting it up to the main body the choke isn't able to line up with the bolt holes. If the secondaries are installed after to try and set the choke piece in place the rod binds up and the top piece can't bolt up to the body. Picture 1 is the rod I'm referencing, and picture two is the part where it bolts to. Picture three is on the side of the top piece that the rod is binding on when trying to install it to the main body. If there are questions feel free to ask.

okay so i pulled it off and i guess i realized what type of carb this is it’s got primaries and secondaries right(i’m used to dcoe’s and ida’s so this 32/36 is brand new to me). The small lower ones are primaries and the top square ones are secondaries? it doesn’t use the factory bellcrank it uses what i assume is what came with it(i didn’t install this it came with it on). I’ll try switching to the factory bellcrank, but there is a significant scrapping noise when they try to open after the first what i think is the primary opens slightly and it starts to open the other ones it scrapes. Im pulling it apart to diagnose that as right now.