ESPANTA

I see. In the end it always comes down to the trial and error method anyway. And thats why i was trying to find someone that used a steering like mine on a b110. Cause ive seen a lot of feedback but always from "conventional" type steering racks where the pivots are at the end of each rack. Havent yet found a center pivot type used so i didnt have to find for myself that after all the work done it sucks and i need to redo everything and use a conventional steering rack

Yeah thats what im trying to improve. Cause the adjustment bolt on the box is all the way in and um almost at the point of getting half a turn off nothing at the wheel. But dont bump steer get affected more by the angle and lenght of the tie rods than by their position? Or did i misunderstood the whole concept?

Yeah i can live with less travel. What im afraid is that i mess with something that i shouldnt and the handling gets worse. But the way what do you mean by "shim out the bump"?

Thanks Duncan but ive already been there and a couple other places and still cant find the answer to what im looking for. This is the closest they get. They talk about changing bump steer and that the same width as original tie rod (which is the best to keep the suspension geometry the same) and how to narrow wider steerings but dont say anything about what im looking for. The only thing im trying is to regain THE steering of my pickup cause it has easily 100° of useless turn on the steering wheel and its almost a miracle to find someone that rebuilds these steering boxes nowadays. And since i have a couple of these laying around i thought i could try and use them Thats exactly the reason of most of the mods i have on my Pickup are done. Its from '78 its been a workhorse most of its life in two countries(south africa on the early years and Portugal until today) ive done almost 200k kilometers with it since i bought it (i have no idea how many km on total it had when i bought it but by the looks of things i would say a lot) and its normal that stuff wears out. A lot of parts are either unavailable nowadays or make 0 sense on keeping them on today standards(4wheel drum brakes was one of them). So before repairing anything i usually check if there is something i can gain from either modifying the part or upgrading the whole system.

So im thinking about upgrading the steering on my pickup and since i cant find much on it i was wondering Has anyone ever used a center pivot steering? And what effects may it have on driving feedback? Something like this: Ive read that ideally it would be better to use one steering with the same pivot width as the stock steering rod so it doesnt change cornering characteristics. But i have a couple like this laying around and i was wondering if anyone has ever done it and what results it had before i try to do anything.

Im looking to turbo my stock a12 Was looking for Boost starting creeping somewhere between 3000/3500rpm and full Boost at 4000ish till 6500 According to my calculations a GT2052 or GT2260 would be a good fit, BUT since Im terrible at math Im here looking for help from turbo guros. Can somene shed some light please? Also forgot to add: Im looking to run 8/8.5:1 compression, EFI, Front IC and Boost around 0.8/1bar when daily driving and 1.5bar on crazier days

Well the Eaton its gonna be saved for another engine. Soo back at N/A. Since i'll be using 78.5mm pistons and the whole valvetrain it needs to be replaced i was thinking what valve sizes could i use to better fit the engine Usually on the French TU engines, the 1.3litter its kept with the stock 39.5/31.4 valve sizes with good results. But once it gets to a 1.6 engine the valves work ok but better results are found with bigger valves. So since i currently have 37/32 if Im not mistaken, i was thinking about what valves would fit better the engine on the end 40/32 , 42/32 or 42/33 and what effects would cause um power delivery each set. I havent choosen the camshaft specs yet but Im not looking for max power. Just a strong little fast road engine that can cruise when needed

BrothersGarage i had thought about something similar but the problem is that the hole in the block is exactly bellow where Im planning to mount the Supercharger. So that would become even harder to check the level in the future Im going to try what Lockleaf sugested first. Cause i can get a couple old dipsticks at work just need take some measurements and get some pieces of tube to try the idea

For the battery i thought about that. Fabricate a smaller tray and use a slimmer battery like the older hondas used, but next to the headlight. That would clear some room. But how can i relocate the dipstick other than twisting the metal tube around? Cause Im almost breaking it after just twisting it 2 times. Fabricate a new "metal tube guide thing" and switch to some "metal cable plastic ends" type dipstick like some newer cars use? Im using the older A12 to mock things up cause if i mess anything up it better be on the older engine not on the new One. Datsun parts are kinda rare and expensive around here...

Well i ran into a couple problema while mocking some thing up trying to fit the Eaton -This is the only possible mount for it to Run an intercooler setup -The m65 is a bit too long with the double intake. -The oil level thing(dont know the translation to that) gets allways in the way doesnt matter to where i bend it -The battery mount is also in the way Besides this, theres allways the not so stock look of things. Modifications around here are all forbiden by law. So theres allways the Cops pulling you Over to inspect and the anual inspection to worry about. And lets face it. I would pass a lot easier with itbs than with a eaton screaming its lungs out🤣 Thats why Im still thinking about going FI or NA. Would probably spend the same amount in the end on both and get better results with FI but more reliability and peace with NA🤔

Its an m65 from a Mercedes. Basically a m45 with diferent rear housing.

Thanks everyone This one came from south africa to portugal in the 80's. Thats why its RHD. And yes its very small. A lot of my friends cant fit on the drivers side😂 And yes it'll need some sound deadening later on. Driving in the rain feels like im inside an empty oil barrel but i kind of like it. It adds personality to it Also forgot to mention that the front spoiler is from a golf mk1 GTI and the front mask is made out of a Rover 111 front bumper Well regardind the engine so far the plan was simple: Rings and bearings Port the head Cam regrind 78.5mm flat top pistons Headers E16 crank(if i manage to find One) L16valves (if i find a set) Itbs But while i was cleaning the garage i found one of pandoras boxes that i tend to forget about i have. And this one got me thinking: Maybe the plans for the engine could take a sharp turn...

Hi everyone! New guy! Dont shoot!😅 So here's my rust bucket. Bought it 3 years ago and since then i've been trying to improve it bit by bit whenever i can. So far its been through a couple carb setups. Original hitachi died a couple days after i bought it. After that had a twin keihin setup from a Honda Civic Until one of them died. So i mounted a Weber 28/36 and has been running ever since. Also it still had drum brakes on all wheels, i got a set of 120y struts and fitted some 247mm Saxo vts brakes with braided lines And a set of cheap 13"wheels Latelly bought a hardtop and some crystal headlights from a golf mk2 Until last month the A12 decided that it was time to burn a valve and get some rest So i got an a15 with h89 head to drop in So now ive just disassembled the engine to Clean and check for wear. So far so good. Now all i need is to source a couple parts to close the engine and see what Im doing next... Sorry if my english isnt that good but its been a while since ive used it...