jlawley97

i did measure but with a plastic mirco meter . So I am going to get a proper high percision one and try again heres a video of the knock now as you can tell it doesnt get loud when revved.

the compression was 90psi across the board which is below the recommended threshold. and was knocking ill take a picture of the bearings but as i mentioned they were showing copper and definately needed to be changed Here is a video of it before I changed the bearings

any update on what the bearings looked like?

ALSO could the piston wrist pins be the cause of the knocking? There didnt seems to be any visible damage to them. the knocking sound is loudest in the center of the block and can mostly be heard in the exhaust pipe.

Hi, So, I bought this z24 engine block to use put it together it started knocking after a little bit timing got messed up valves touched pistons pistons and valves were fine and still hold compression took it apart replaced rod bearing and pistons rings checked oil path ways reassembled. knocking much quieter and only really hear when warm and at idle. check the main bearings now. They arent great great copper is showing. I have another z24i block with crank shaft installed that is known to be good(has no pistons but oil and water were mixing and it was not determined if the block was cracked or the headgasket was bad) SOO should I replaced the main bearings with the engine in the truck, measure clearances and not get crank shaft machined OR put the pistons from z24 block into the z24i block, because if I take out the z24 block to get the crank shaft machined. I know what the right thing to do is but i don't want to keep dumping money and time into this truck and removing engines is difficult because I have to work in the dirt Basically I dont have time to check the roundness of the crank shaft at this moment in time and dont want to worry about it constantly I want to know the likely hood that the crankshaft needs to be machined if there was no visible scoring on it. If i could remove the crankshaft without removing the engine this would all be a non issue. Thank you for following me through this thought process.

Okay that makes me feel better

I just rebuild the engine new bearings and piston rings and all the gaskets Im getting water and oil mixing This isnt my first headgasket so Im pretty sure I did it correctly even then I checked the compression on all cylinders and its 150psi across the board I DID let some coolant get in the oil ports when I took the head off but it couldnt have been much so is this normal amount of milkiness how many times should I redo the oil before I should stop trying lol Whatelse could it be? the timing cover isnt leaking either

Okay I am finally back and found out the issue. That little peg on the cam shaft had come out. is there anyway to make sure that never happens again ??

like if im driving and I with the windows down i can hear it at idle but i can not heard it while driving at speeds

just want to make sure its rod knock before I drop the pan. its a z24i motor. There are no metal shavings in the oil so thats why I wasnt 100% on the rod knock.

no i understand all this. There is something weird going on, Ill take pictures of the cams to show you what is going on.

are there different cams for the z24 and the z24i? because there does not seem to be when i look it up but then how does my cam shaft have the peg up and the lobes up when everyother one is the peg up and the lobes are down(for cylinder one). I know what to do at this point, just crank it 180 degrees and then redo the oil pump but i just want to know about the cam shaft now like if you refer to 2 photos above that show the camshaft sprocket and then lobes being up on cylinder one that is what i am referring to. couuld the cam shaft have broken? because i see no other way that this could happen

something even weirder i just noticed that on camshaft the one in the picture. When that peg is pointing up so are the cam lobes for cylinder one I have another head laying around and when its peg is pointing up the lobes for cylinder one are pointing down this is so weird.

The problem is that it was running and driving absolutely fine before and i set the correct timing on it with a timing light than just stopped. The timing hasnt changed whatsoever so like how was it even running before? thats what I dont get because the way i set it up is that the crankshaft is at 0 and the camshaft set like how i have it in the above, then the distributor half moon is like how it is below so the distributor is pointing at the I1 and E1