510_dreamin

My 510 recently started to always read “hot” after 5-10 minutes of driving, with the needle going all the way to the right after some driving. The issue is when checking with an IR thermometer the cars running perfectly at 160-164 degrees (has a 160 degree thermometer, Koyo radiator, electrics fans, new water pump) I noticed she connector to the coolant temp sensor was broken recently so I used a yellow electrical connector (12-10) to connector to the sensor but it’s not the best fit and it still reads hot the same way after 5-10 minutes. Anyone know what size connector it uses or what the culprit may be?

I am running a Koyo radiator with dual electric puller fans. I’m running between 3/4 of the temp gauge to the end but with the IR thermometer it seems ok. I had my carbs tuned and adjusted and it definately helped. I just can’t figure this thing out

do you have any issues with your 123 setup? Mine feels sluggish at times, runs a bit hot, and spark knocks uphill where it’s slow lol

In reading the manual It uses a MAP Curve as opposed to Vacuum advance. I have no idea what this means but trying to learn. Local tuners indicated they can tune it for $700-$1000 on a dyno but I feel that’s how I got into this mess so trying to learn how to do it myself. Regarding the vacuum curve, this is a little bit more complex. 123ignition works with absolute vacuum in stead of relative vacuum. The advantage of absolute vacuum is, it works also when you drive the car on high altitudes. In case of relative vacuum, you have to adjust the ignition manually. The values in the original Bosch graph are given in mmHg, 123ignition works with kPa. First we convert the values to kPa and crankshaft degrees instead of distributor degrees. You can type in Google: 80 mmHg to kPa 0 deg @ 11 kPa 10 deg @ 27 kPa Now we have to convert the relative values to absolute values. Atmospheric vacuum at see level is 100 kPa. So 100 kPa is our base point. Al values below 100 kPa is vacuum all values above 100 kPa is pressure. in this case we have a vacuum curve, so our result will be: 0 deg @ 100 – 11 kPa = 89 kPa 10 deg @ 100 – 27 kPa = 73 kPa

After the coil replacement, carb tuning , and following all the tuning suggestions it appears to now run a bit hot and still struggles with hills. Any other suggestions? At 30 degrees total advance by 3k rpm

Hi Everyone, finally got the ignition dialed in and carbs tuned. It was a combination of carbs needing some adjustment, user error with the 123ignition app, and trial and error with the advance to get it dialed in. Now that it runs well my next question is the factory tach doesn’t rev up much since the 123ignition was installed. It also has an MSD Blaster 2 coil. I believe the tach pulls the signal from the coil. Is the Blaster 2 the wrong coil for the tach to work, would switching to like a Pertronix Flamethrower help?

I don’t have anything set up for the map I should probably zero mine out as well. I have dieseling too most time. I just filled up with a fresh batch of chevron 91, usually all I run or shell 91. California gas though. timing light is a good idea. I’ll look into that. I might work on adjusting the carbs too and see if I can smooth them out a bit. thanks everyone for all the help. I feel it’s getting better and better with each suggestion you all have, what a great community!

Unfortunately I have no idea. They’re the same model carbs (40dcoe) but that’s all I know. I was surprised to see them changed out by the shop in the first place. I asked for the ones I had to serviced and it turned into a swap out since mine allegedly needed a rebuild.

here is the one in the 123 app. I set it with some stuff I found online

It ran good. Felt quick and light on its feet. Rarely if ever any spark knock. No problem climbing hills. Then the ignition and carb were changed at the same time and it’s been a struggle the past almost year

What about map curve? Any baseline settings for that? at rpm it’s in the low rpm’s climbing up at wot it will spark knock

update. Ran smoother with this timing set up. Any suggestions for when it gets some spark knock going uphill? Still feels sluggish going up hills

thank you so much. I will try this set up and see how it does. same set up as before. My matchbox went out and the shop I went to said the 123 was the best way to go forward. Problem was it came untuned. I have been trying since to get it going the right way but it’s a big learning curve for me. I could take it to a tuner around here but im really trying to learn to do as much as I can myself. The shop also swapped out my leaky webbers for rebuilt webbers they had and I think I have them dialed in ok

To be honest it’s a solid product for me but I haven’t been able to get the tune really dialed in. It feels like it’s sluggish no matter what I do, doesn’t rev as freely as it should, and doesn’t like to up hills and will spark knock. It’s been a lot of trial and error and adjusting the tune to try to dial it in but it’s never quite “there” This is my current set up that has been ok but leaves much to be desired: anyone have any suggestions? L20b, dual Webbers, mild cam

thank you!