FricFrac

Version one had some clearance issues so we'll be test fitting version two tomorow. Here's a teaser for version two:

Did you ever get the HPK255 for $380? Looks like they are closer to $500 most places....

Picking away at the endless "little things" while I try to get the head studs squared away. Did some more porting and polishing on the exhaust manifold. I already matched the ports but I wanted to transistion and take some of the roughness of the casting out and round off any sharp edges going into the turbo flange. Cleaned it up and painted it satin black with some header paint to match the head.

So apparently when I was told to use the L20b ARP set on the Z22 the person was assuming I was building a LZ. The L20B studs are WAY too long for the Z22 with the stock head and they don't make a Z22 kit (or any NAPS Z kits for that matter). I think I've found a stud that will work. ARP sells these as a individual stud - M10 x1.25 x 1.50 x 109mm PN: AM 4.300-2LB so 10 of these, 10 washers and nuts should make a Z22 ARP head bolt kit :) Just talking with ARP to find out if they'll make a kit of these to buy direct from them or through their suppliers so I can get this thing together!

I've been working on having a fully adjustable rear camber and caster kit for the 280ZX with a friend of mine who does an amazing kit for the Datsun 510. The 510 shares a very similar trailing a-arm suspension with the S130 280ZX. I just sent over a rear cross member and a-arms to Byron and in comparison the 510 is MUCH larger than the 280ZX (about 4 inches to play with as opposed to the 1 1/2 inches on the 280ZX). That means the 280ZX rear cross member adjustable bracket needs to be completely redesigned from the original 510 kit Byron makes. Byron is willing to redesign the bracket to work with the geometry of the 280ZX but he needs 15 buyers just to break even. He's willing to do the project if I can get 10 guys to commit to buying a setup in the hopes that he'll sell at least another five just to get his money back out (that's not including all the time in his design, etc). Each kit will be $300 each and will allow you to adjust both the camber and caster of the rear end. This is a MUST if you are lowering your 280ZX and/or if you are racing or auto xing your car and want to be able to tune the suspension. There is currently NO other adjustable systems on the market for the 280ZX and the only option is to use toe bolts and/or slot the rear cross member but there isn't a lot of material to do any slotting as it is and the adjustment range is minimal. For Byron's kit you would have to cut off the stock mounts and weld on the new ones which is fairly straight forward but does require welding - this is not a bolt on kit - that would require a complete cross member replacement and would be very expensive. The kit would be complete with everything you need other than removing the bracket and welding the new kit on. There's a bit of a thread on it and the installation is over here Here's Byron's 510 kit. Build thread is here and the install thread is here If anyone is interested in a kit please post to this thread!

Cleaning out the garage (SLOOOOOWLY...) and found a scrap Z22 head - side by side of the exhaust ports:

Fixed the last valve seat with the nick in it. All the valve springs and valves are re-installed. Spark plugs gaped and semi-indexed (picked the best of for the eight). Painted the head with high temp exhaust manifold paint to match the block. Ready for cam reinstall. The hot cam for the L28ET is the L28E NA cam. Hopefully the Z22 NA cam works well for a turbo application. Still undecided as to what turbo to run on this build. Probably will start with a T3 from an L28ET. I think a GT28 or GT30 would likely be a good final build turbo for this application. Big returns from a methanol injecton for the L series head and a boosted application - not so sure the hemi style head here will need the methanol as badly. Something to ponder for the future....

Pretty much done with the head now. Lapped the valves in and hot tanked the head. There's one seat that has a nick in it we'll try to polish out then a quick clean and install the valves and cam. Had the old piston wrist pins pressed out and the new pistons and wrist pins installed. Sent that to the machinist which is the only machine work so far for a total of $62. Pistons are installed and started painting the block. One coat of primer over the old paint and a coat of semi gloss black engine enamel.

Good luck welding them together perfectly straight. I had a machinist cut and sleave my L28ET dizzy shaft to mate up to an Z24i dizzy to work on a Z22 timing cover.... http://community.ratsun.net/topic/48127-1969-datsun-510-2dr-z22-turbo-efi-build/?do=findComment&comment=786133

Square head ports meet round manifold ports :)

Around $200. Godspeed has them listed at $300 but check out E-Bay, Amazon, etc...

The 280ZXT has a vacuum pump to run the Climate control, etc if you're looking for something off a wreaker. I'll be using the ZXT fuel pump for my Z22ET Mega Squirt setup. See the S130 isn't just a 510 parts car for the 5sp and front struts ;)

Let's hope you're not runing stock injectors then....

Ding Ding Ding! We have a winner! Well it looks like with some fairly aggressive but doable porting the KA24E manifold will work with the NAPS Z heads - woohoo! There is lots of material on the head on the sides of the port - just have to be careful on the bottom as it looks like that's where the water passages for the head reside. The log manifold is cast so there is lots of material to work with. I must say this manifold looks very nice and I suspect it will flow well. It's not optimal but with the large runners but smaller volume than a tubular manifold it should spool quickly (which means more power under the curve). The only place on the manifold that isn't smooth is the entry into the turbo flange which I'll clean up with the die grinder. I made templates for both sides and marked off where the material needs to be removed to match everything up. Looks like it was made for the Z22! I'm hoping the offset top mount will clear the strut towers. I looks like it should be fine but I won't know until we get there.

440cc injectors!

It's way easier to make power with a turbo L28 than a carbed one. You have infinately more control with a programable ECU than you do with a carb. Personally I think running an after market ECU like Mega Squirt (which you can do for around $800 including a wide band O2 sensor and gauge) is the first thing you should do if you want to build up and make power because it will affect every mod you do to the car. Of course an intercooler, BOV/Recirc valve, madrel bent downpipe and larger exhaust are big improvements. What the artlicle listed above doesn't mention even though it says to add a larger throttle body is the intake runner which are 53% the size of the intake valves - this is a major choke point for the L28ET but most people just gloss over it. Another item that makes a BIG difference to the L28ET is water/methanol injection. A friend of mine added 18 degrees advance back into his setup just by adding a meth injection system!

It's actually the "A" grind from the NA that's considered the hot turbo grind.

There's no getting around the physics as you've stated. It will take longer to spool and a lot of the thermal energy (which is what spools the turbo) is also lost so you're loosing a lot of the energy you would be harnessing to power the turbo. You also have a lot more "volume" to deal with as well as other losses for the compressed air going back from the turbo to the engine which is why you don't often see this type of setup. I does, however, look pretty sweet. I really like the screamer tube setup. Nice build :)

Price?

The gaskets are two seperate pieces so that wouldn't work.

After spending a few days researching I think I might have a solution to my turbo manifold question - as in what am I going to run for a turbo manifold. Someone mentioned that the KA24E exhaust layout was the same as the NAPS Z head. From what I can tell it looks like it will work but there isn't any way to tell without seeing it up against the head. I don't have access to a manifold and I hate to order parts without knowing for sure but I found one for a good price and if it doesn't work there are a ton of S13 guys around who would probably buy it. The exhaust outlet on the Z22 is oval(ish) whereas the manifold for the KA is round so I'll have to do some port matching one way or another which I would have done anyhow. The other question since I had the option was log or tubular manifold. After much deliberation I went with the log manifold as it will spool faster because of the lower total volume inside the log manifold. There is also less thermal loss in the log manifold compared to the tubular which also helps spool more quickly. While spooling doesn't give you more power it does give you more power under the curve. The log manifold is top mount and it's offset towards the front of the car which should keep out of the way of the strut towers.

Haha nice link ;P

The turbo doesn't need extra oil presure - it's more of a concern if you have an oil cooler with more oil to move. Oil FLOW is what you need to be concerned with - not pressure.

Yea but the rear quarters aren't stoved in yet and you've got a bike tire in the back you can try to stretch on your 15x10 rims....

What offset?