Toybomber

GOLD ROPE CHAIN ?

The l20 has been sold...... thank you for everyone who expressed interest with lowball offers.  I now have $$$$$ to get me back on track with finishing the 620....or maybe I should buy another projects???

Not sure of the tapper on the center link flip... but other forums swear by them... and I can vouch..... they work well

Then engine mounts are original ones...... dropped 3/4" and welded back up, no issues with clearance from the top and bottom...... The pan clearance comes from the pen sitting too far back..... not much, but just enough...... its been fixed and clears lock to lock 1/4-1/2"

The l20b w/ 5speed and all smog equipment is for sale $$$$

Pics anyone?

E flywheel/clutch and trans married to the engine.   everything fits well........ centerline flipped..... i still had some massaging to do to the oil pan (s13 de).  just got the walbro fuel pump..... and trying to figure out what headers? (any ideas or advice) 

Under...... i'm trying to post pic...... again....... advice?

Soooo...... I've been pissing my wife off something Royal... By having my "project" taking up our entire garage. Figured I would finish it sence we are listing our house (anyone wanna buy a house in Gilbert?). Back to the project, I iust fit the ka24de in lot the engine bay..... Kinda fits..... Need to massage the oil pan... My question is can I use the flywheel and clutch from the original L20? I have a clutch and flywheel from a ka24e...... This flywheel needs to be resurfaced. Or do I need a flywheel and clutch from the ka24de??..... Thanks for the advise

Also..... It's not that hard to replace all the lines with fresh ones........ Add about another $100-150 if you go that route

No need to replace the lines..... Just use the original bleeder housing at the back of the cylinder .... Lines still attached... If the "hallow bolt" or the banjo bolt threads smooth and clean..... Which it should .... Then ur golden

Convert it to 12v ........ Swap in a sr20 with a high capacity alt to power ur amplifiers for the booming system..... Rockfords would be a great choice.

Dude...... That truck is bomb...... Looks prime for a nice lime/yellow candy pant.... monster notch and 4 link the rear...and a Body drop to make it lay in the weeds..... And air on all 4 corners...post a pic of the rear end so we can see if the truck will take a roll pan..... And shave that goofy front bumper

As stated in the title, I'm swapping a ka24de (s13) into my 78' 602kc.  Way confused on how to run the heater hoses.  The ka has 1 hose running out of the block (passengers rear) and 2 other (small 1 and big 1) coming out of the head.  Next we have a small one and big one coming out of the radiator right before the pump.  I've pretty much deleted the hoses running to the throttle body and most of the emissions "stuff".  So heres what Im asking...... how do I make the 2 hoses from the head, the 2 hoses pre-pump and the 1 off the block all play together with the heat core in the cab???  Anyone who has done the ka-s13/620 swap.... feel free to PM me or respond with advise, encouragement and words of wisdom.  Or, anyone in the East Phoenix area, there is pizza and beer for labor.  As this is my first engine swap :sick:...... 

I reversed bleed it by pushing the slave push rod in sever times while watching the bubbles in the mc res. thought I had a pedal...... But I guess not. I'll keep working at it........ But right not my focus has turned to the body...... Welding, grinding, shaving, sanding etc....etc....etc.

The slave only moves about 3/4" or so

Yes mike..... New bearing... Oh, and new master........ I'm thinking it needs more bleeding. Any tricks with bleeding the clutch hydrolics??

Redline ... With e-choke......Copy that

Back to the Efan..... My current water pump is leaking.... Need it replaced..... It has a small 4 blade fan with no clutch. I have replaced the radiator with a new aluminum 3 core...... Fits great. Now, i do have a new water pump...... With a clutch (well it had a clutch on it, I removed it.... Came off fairly easy). I have 13 blade efan laying around. It will fit between the rad and pump pulley withe the clutch removed. Now keep in mind I live in Phoenix...... Crazy hot summers. So, yes a switch on the dash would look retarded but not as retarded as letting my wife(in my case) drive it. Second..... More cfm from the bigger faster fan=cooler engine. Again thoughts, ideas and emossion out burst are always welcome

Also..... Best place to buy the weber??...... Not a chineese knock off weber

I haven't purchased the weber yet....... Keeping somewhat stock motor...... Next question is 32/36 or 38??.... Electric or manual ??? Looks like some of the wiring under the hood has been hacked up so finding the wire for the choke may come as a challenge. Also I want to wire up an efan...... Just cuz they r cool...... Ideas, thought or emotional out burst on this ???

Sooooo, hope and pray they don't pop the hood??..... I still have all the smog "stuff". Maybe I'll put it so it looks like it's doing something. Thanks holic and mike

Title says it all...... New clutch.... New throw out bearing..... New slave..... Gears 1-5 shift kind of Ok..... But R is grind till it drops into gear......clutch pedal is screwed out as far as I can get it. Any clues or advice??

"You're goddamn right" Phoenix area and yes Arizona is fickle about the smog stuff....... I had a few vw'so that took several trips to emissions each before they passed.

First time posting....... But I've been lurking for awhile as I'm building my 620. I bought a 78 620 kc ,bone stock, in rough condition for 500. I pulled the motor(l20b) and rebuilt it...... I deleted the smog pump and vacuum lines to clean up the engine. But I haven't done emissions on the truck yet. I want to put a 32/36 weber in it sence the OG hitatci is beyond repair. Can I pass arizona emissions without the smog stuff and with a new weber carb? Any advise one smog delete in Arizona??????? Thanks in advance..... Pics to come