RB_S30

So I got the rail made, and mocked up into place. Unfortunately this posted isn’t all good. Over the past few months Ive been experiencing some severe wrist pain, well after a few days of doctors’ visits due to extensive wrist pain over the past three months. I've been diagnosed with having Kienbocks disease. A rare condition found in young adults which causes the lunate bone of the wrist to lose blood flow. It's a 4 stage disease which most people never reaching a true stage 4, total destruction of the bone but only due to pain not because it's rare, most reach 3b which is when the bone has spilt into multiple pieces. I'm between stage 2 and 3 tipping towards the worse which unfortunately means the options become limited. I've already lost an estimated 55% of strength, and 20% of flexion and 10% defluxion in my left hand due to the fragmentation of my bones with in my wrist. I'll be meeting with a surgeon in Rochester at mayo whom is the number two rated in the nation for these operations. There are multiple options, if the lunate isn't completely dead I may be able to have vascular reconstruction in an attempt to restore blood flow and prevent any additional bone and flexibility loses. My wrist would be fixed with braces within for months until the graphs are healed completely If it is dead three options exist, non which I am looking forward to living with for my remaining life. So until I am clear to use that arm again I am unfortunately puting this project on a breif hiatus, I will still post here and there but no real progress will be made.

Thanks Spoona_Jay and Tomakze I have tomorrow off work so I should have enough time to sneak out to the shop after classes and make the rails.

So its been awhile since Ive posted on here, just a quick update. So ive been trying to address my frame issue for some time now. As you can see they are very messed up. The driver side is not nearly as twisted but still had a slight bow to it with a straight edge. Attempted to straighten the chassis with the engine bay frame rails connected. To little avail I have decided to remove all the rails. So after a little massage its slowly coming together. The metal has streched so far in many places it will need to be replaced with new. Pulled a template from the drivers side to show how far off it is. Alittle closer still needs work How time to start building some rails and get the car straight.

Sorry to hear for your lose tr8er, hearing news like this frustrates me as I have a family member in law enforcment who determines the creations needed for the idiotic behavior of law enforcement. This happen a few years ago where I live, situation was slightly different (drugs not alcohol) but the cop was suspended for a long time ( may have been permenent I cant recall) with out pay due to dangerous discharge of his weapon in downtown while civilians were present within a kill zone of a stray bullet. The suspect was driving for a few blocks under the speed limit, hit a few parked cars, smashed into a telephone pole then exited the vehicle, as he turned towards the cop in a spastic manner he was unloaded on. Back up reported him DOA. Situations like this are unneccesary although do put your self in the officials shoes, its his life each and every call he responds to. He made a discision in a split second. Prayers go out to you and your family. - RB_S30

Thank you everyone, I have a few days of PTO this week I hope to get then engine back in so I can redo my trans mounts and get this thing running again soon, Going to Hawk at Road America this weekend Ill post up some pics of the datsuns what will be there should be fun. Update: So wheel and tires have been mounted. Need lug nuts to mount them up.

Thats everything up to date as of yesterday 7/9/14. More posts to come....

I also bought some wheels and tires after selling the steelies I had to a friend with a 78' Z. Bought some Wat knock off, Rota RKR 15x9 And some Hankook RS3 V2 to wrap them in, borrowed photo for reference. 225x45 I am in the process of building this twin scroll tubular manifold right now. 1.75'' SS mandrel bends. Flanges were all water jetted for me locally, I have about $230 into this right now and about 15 hours of labor. Clears AC, but not PS as I wont be running that so I made my bends much more gradual as a result. Looks strange but all the runners at within .75'' of each other. The space I have to work with limited me from going to crazy, also the availability of different radius bends, all my radius are 5'' as I couldn't get and tighter from my local supplier. I have tomorrow off so a little more welding and time to pressure test it with smoke, then sandblasting and send it off for ceramic coating. Should I do black or silver?

So I just got back end of june from more field work in the montana area for School. Glad to be home and able to work on the car some more. Ive been busy ordering and fabing parts. I still have a full time job over the summer while im home so dont expect to much. No classes I need to graduate will be offered until summer of next year so I do have a entire year to get some work done of this thing. Not very many pictures were taken during fab work, I tend to forgot to take them as I get to working on things as a result you guys only ever see the before and after. Im going to attempt to get better at taking more photos since Ill be able to make more then just one post a summer in the thread now. So I started by making some adjustable lower control arm(LCA) for the rear to match the fronts. I borrowed the design from a member on here which I will give credit to once I find the post again. I also had a little shopping spree to support the HX35, DW 740cc injectors, Precision 46mm WG, Tial BOV, SPEC stage 2+ clutch and Aluminum flywheel.

So I bought some more things today, all the heim joint and bungs I will need to make the control arms above. Along with some schedule 40 pipe, which is .133 wall so plenty thick. Also my gauges came in yesterday Fuel Sender The bezel they will sit in Also picked up a turbo, just a little guy. Few guys making upwards of 750whp with these on the 25, most are around the 400-500whp range. Sent the internals off for balancing, will rebuild it once they return. Being a HX35, it is twin scroll so I will keep it so. I may or may not attempt to make a quick spool valve for this thing. I will be making a manifold for it to utilize the twin scroll, 1 1/4'' is stock and seems that most of the after market big money manifolds are the same size, the cheap ebay mani's are 1 7/8'' or there about. Placement will be the hardest part, not alot of room will be left with everything stuffed in the engine bay. I cleaned it up a bit from when I bought it from zach, and removed brackets for all the attachments shaving about a pound that the manifold will have to support. Ill also be picking up a precision 46mm WG and a tial qr sport, they type that recirculates because im staying MAF. I also plan to get some deatsch werks 740cc, all the flow calc ive used say these will give me the power Im looking for in both gas and e85 at or under 80% duty. Clutch wise I will be getting a spec 2+ good for 415 tq which is much more then I will ever have, being my goal whp is just shy of 400.

Yesterday I just about finished up my relief area for the throttle body, the way I postioned the engine in the engine bay was fine for the stock throttle body, when I added the q45 the springs touched ever so slightly, knowing that things rotate and flex due to torque I gave it enough room To move however it pleases, although I dont think its doing anywhere with poly-urathane bushings. I had to spend all of today working on homework so I dont get backed up, I have about 15 minutes of sanding left in the corners. I also picked up some toyota 4x4 calipers, 15/16 master cylinder, and hawk HPS pads so this thing can stop alittle better.

So my goal is for the car to be running, driving and road legal by my birthday April 24th, not done just road worthy, tested and ready to go as I want to take it to the twin cities for a car show on April 26th. I will focus on wiring, bodywork and engine odds and ends. Currently I have pulled the engine and trans to help as I stripped the entire car of its existing wiring harness, have thrown it in a box and never plan to look at it again. Why you may ask, well, being that car was some ones future race endeavor most the remaining harness was well not what I needed. So I pulled it all and ordered this. Now its by no means a plug an play harness, actually it barely works for the Datsun, its meant to be run of the drivers side and the wires are set up to be run through GM equipment so a lot of comparing diagrams to figure out how to make Nissan parts work the same as GM parts. I have built a fuse panel holder under the driver’s side dash since lengthening all the wires was not a road I was going to venture down, I have also decide to attempt to de-clutter the steering column a bit and relocated the ignition cylinder to the cig lighter location. In between waiting for various electrical parts in the mail I managed to mount up my radiator and intercooler. The radiator is for a 240sx and is about a ¼’’ too wide for the 280z frame rail so they required slight notching for clearance. That brings me up to about Wednesday of last week, I will have to post pictures tomorrow of what I have completed thus far as I do not have anything to show other than this is in my possession for the RB25, was at a price I couldn’t pass up. Got me pretty motivated and really was the whole reason I pulled this project out for the other garage and started working on it again. Thought I would do i quick update to keep the thread fresh. Only had Wednesday afternoon and Thursday evening to do anything, I managed to finish the lighting electrical portion of the car, everything is working good, couple hiccups here and there dealing with a harness built for gm switches. Everything connection has been or is in the process of being switched to a amp connector, similar to a delphi weatherpack but much cheaper. All wires will eventually run through braided nylon loom I have the main runners taken care of, just the shorter section under the dash left. I thought I had the intercooler mounted in its final position last week, adding the hood hinges changed that idea quickly. So I had to do some adjusting to make everything fit but it all clears. I also mounted the front air dam, had been stressing over this, turned out good.

New clearer photos for your viewing pleasure... Posted 11 January 2013 - 11:51 PM So I had a little free time to get the pan a little closer to finished, at about 40% welded. Still need to make a baffle system, dipstick, and windage tray. The first pic gives the appearance that the ends are lower, I assure you that is not the case and just appears that way everything is slightly slanted toward the hull.

I got the mounts all finished up today, turned out good. Saved myself over 500 dollar in exchange for 8 hours of work. Now onto the oil pan... I apologize for the crappy pics.. Ill replace these with better photos tomorrow.

Havent updated for awhile, finals and work consumed all of my time. Got the engine, started installing. I started by removing the stock 280z trans mounts, and converted them to a style similar to the 240's had. Photos arent great but they'll do for now. Bolts attach to the bottom. The engine is in its final place just waiting to make mounts need to double check measurements, I plan to do a variation of the stock and mckinney mounts. Still trying to decide if I should use the datsun rubber mounts or get urethane biscuits for this.

Pulled the engine, ready for the swap Before and After.. Removed all the bracket and wires hold downs in the picture above, also finally finished grinding down the lower radiator brace. Try to get some bondo on the thing tomorrow before work, sand and prime with in the next week. Final paint once the engine mounts and radiator/intercooler are in place but I need an engine first...