Jump to content

ready2hunt

New Members
  • Posts

    13
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Location
    Montana

ready2hunt's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

0

Reputation

  1. ready2hunt

    emissions removal

    I know this is old, but..... I'm doing a rebuild right now, and want to verify that EVERYTHING vacuum can be removed, except for the dizzy advance, and of course the brake booster. Is this correct? I have a weber, and am using headers, so I will be doing the EGR block off as well.
  2. Turns out, the pvc valve hose came unhooked behind the motor. Seems to run Ok, but not sure if I'm happy with it. Had a piston slap when I started it, and it seem to sound a miss out the exhaust. It's kinda hard to explain. Anyways, I have another block, and am seriously considering staring from ground 0. Thanks for all the help guys!
  3. Wow I have be beating my head against the wall trying to figure out how I screwed up the timing. I will start looking at ways air is getting in. Could it be vacuum related? Thanks a bunch for your help!
  4. Ok now is see not to use rvt on intake. I will start looking at the carb. Would that also result in exhaust backfire?
  5. Bam! Now we're getting somewhere. That's what my mechanic friend thought. Should the intake gasket have been rvt'ed? I did not rvt the air intake gasket, it didn't look like it was before...
  6. I understand. Issue is, I have driven this truck for months, with all the mods, weber carb and whatnot. Decided to do a head swap, and pulled the motor in doing so. The timing chain go away from me, so I cracked the case, fixed the tensioner, and timing chain, which I have done before. Put it all back together, put the engine in, and it wont run other than with the choke on, and then it rev's up to 5k on it's own, and stays there. I have dicked with the dizzy every which way, and the oil pump shaft, no avail. The truck ONLY runs with the choke on, and when it does, it runs up to 5k on it's own, and stays there. All while backfiring out the exhaust.
  7. Well, switch the dizzy and pump shaft around, nothing changed. Turned the key, I cranked and cranked for 7-8 seconds, fired up with the choke on, and reved up to around 5k and stayed there, so I shut it down. My buddy is a mechanic, and offered to come look at it this weekend. He thinks by looking at the photo, that it's timed properly, but it's a vacuum leak causing it to run lean, hints only with the choke on... So we'll see. Quick question, what lines can I delete, and is it worth it. I would really like to simplify the motor. It's not a daily drive, but a snow runner. I have lifted it 3" and 3". 32" tires and whatnot for hound hunting. I have a weber on it, so only lines I have are the EGR, solenoid on the passanger finder, solenoid on drivers finder, and the canister.... Any advice on what can/should be removed?
  8. Just throwing this out there, would it matter or effect anything if I cut out the automatic choke harness? I'm running a weber with a manual choke and wasn't using it, so I cut it out... Just a thought.
  9. How would ya'll read these marking's that are on my dizzy cap? Right now I have the positioned to the left of the markings, with the oil pump shaft at 11:25 on the oil pump side. Now if I moved the shaft to 11:25 on the dizzy side, and moved my plug wires to the "right" of the markings, it should line up with #1 also... But would that even make a difference??
  10. Should the oil pump shift be at 11:25 on the pump side or dizzy slide? I have it set to the oil pump side. If I set the dizzy side to 11:25 and advanced my plug wires one spot it might Change things. Like I mentioned the cap is stamped 1I,3E and so on. Right now the stamp is to the right of the plug location, so it might make since to move the shaft, and move the plug wires on spot. That would put the stamp to the left of the plug location. Doesn't make since though, truck ran before and I haven't removed the plug wires from the cap.
  11. Well dang... I got a little excited! I'm wondering about the the oil pump again.. I have it at 11;25, but on the oil pump side. That would put the dizzy side at around 12:25.. But that's how it was the last time I replaced the timing chain.... The rotor is point at #1 on the cap.... My cap sit's a little different, not sure if that matters. Compairing it to the photo above, my #1 starts where #2E is, but goes in that order... The cap is actually stamped with which one is which.
  12. Thanks for the info Mike! If what your saying about the cam lobes, that's my problem. My lobes are in probably the 5 and 7 position. Now does the cam have 2 rotation to complete? Beings it's keyed, if I disconnect the sprocket spin it 360 degrees, will the lobes be pointed up? I just double checked, and yes, they are pointing downwards. A 360 rotation would put them right back where they are wouldn't it? I i spun it 180 degrees, the key would be at the 6 o'clock position..... My oil pump shaft is at the 11:25 position, but from the oil pump side... But it still put the distributior pointing at the #1 contact...?
  13. Hi fellas! Well, I have hit a wall, and have no idea where to go from here. I have an 86 720 I have been working on. Great truck, have put TONS of work into her. Ran great, but did have some valve clatter around 4k. Well my parts truck had brand new heads on it, so I decide to swap, and you know it, the tensioner popped. I have replaced the timing set before without any issues. This time, I decided to pull the motor, and clean it up, replace every gasket, retorque all the bolts and whatnot. I set TDC prior to removal. I lined up the colored links with the punch marks on the cam and crank sprocket as seen in the photo. Now it wont run for crap. It will only start with the choke on, "manual choke, weber carb" and runs at like 4k for 7-8 seconds, then dies. I moved the oil pump a tooth each direction, with no avail. Funny thing is, if I put the crank at TDC compression, my dizzy is pointing at #1, and my cam sprocket key is at 12 o'clock. I have even manually spun the crank, and all the valves appear to be operation correctly. I'm half way back into the timing, but dont want to break the case, because then what do I do? You can see in the picture, I have everything lined up properly..... What gives???? Maybe someone didn't rebuild the head properly....? Thanks in advance guys. http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h422/me5150/20140430_171210.jpeg
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.