illestmatic

Okay ill take it back tomorrow and have tome install them for me .

Well I just got it back from the shop yesterday. I bought some shims aswell and installed them.

Hey ratsun I have an issue with the installation of my cam and cam towers. I used the original cam and cam tower of the U67 head but when I put in the cam and tighten the cam towers the cam doesn't spin at all.

I was wondering of I can use the cam and cam tower of my a87 head.? Are the cams and cam towers the same for both the a87 and U67 head?

UPDATE: okay so I received the head today from the shop and it looks great. Tom milled 24 thousands of an inch which is close enough for me. He did mention the bigger lash caps but quickly stated they'll be hard to find. But that I should be fine with the ones I have..

I plan to clean up the cams, and arms tomorrow and re-install them. Though one torque spec I couldnt find was the cam towers... What is it?

Thanks mike that's ingenuity at its finest.

So its currantly 2a.m where I'm at and I'm excited for tomorrow. I will get my U67 head from the shop milled 25 thousands of an inch. The shop guy (tom) mentioned that my cam might get some time advanced because the cam will seat lower/closer to the crankshaft. TOM, being a Datsun 510 racer himself back the days, suggested I get camshaft shims the raise the cam .020 higher to reduce the chances of time advancement. Which I will get and have located a shop who has them. Though one thing I did do is remove the camshaft and rocker arms myself so that tom wouldnt charge me extra. I'm here thinking of how ill install everything tomorrow and am worried that I will have trouble putting the cam back together properly. I'm worried that the rocker arms well have to much tension on the valve springs and not let me tighten the cam down the spec.

Is there a propper way to install a camshaft and rocker arms with the valve springs still on the head?

Ahhh okay totally see the difference. Thank you guys so much for the info. I wouldn't of been able to do this myself.

I would like the peanut head the shop is offering me but I don't think its with the investment on a L16. The L20 is a different story.

Question at the junk today I saw a couple Nissan trucks w/ 2.4 liter engines and almost looked like a L series but the intake manifold was on opposite sides of the head. Is this motor the Zblock?

It might be milled already, that is something the machine shop needs to check.

See the photo below, see how the 219 is almost touching the bottom, is your U67 like this one, or is the bottom of the U67 touching the bottom, or is it actually shaved off a little, I have seen heads where the bottom of the U is missing.

See how this head has lots of meat between the bottom of the head and the number.

I checked the head and it has A LOT of meat :D (like the w53 head)

Question: how do know if its a closed or open chamber head just by looking at them ?

Okay let me clear up that my original head was a "A87" it didn't say 210 on it. Though idk if this matters or if its all the same thing.

And wow a U67 head dropps my compression substantialy. Makes me regret buying it I actually wanted a head that would help me gain power not loos it :/ but its okay ill make the best out of it.

I'll be taking the head tomorrow to get checked and resurfaced. I'll tell the shop guy the mill it down 1mm. Right?

Mhmm your right. It might be advanced but ill see what happens when its all put together.

Damn ill look into it.

Way too much.People throw away L16 and 210 heads.A U67 L20B head would work if you also mill it 1 mm. That's a big cut and you may have to move the cam sprocket to the next hole to remove the introduced chain slack.

I went ahead and bought a U67 head off of a 1976 620 w/ a L20b. I see you noted that ill need to "mill" it 1mm. By that do you mean resurface the head 1mm.

And will I be able to use my L16 chain with the U67 head w/o chain slack ?

So I came to my local junk yard and actually found a 620. It's has a l20b in it with a U67 head. I was going to buy the whole motor but it has water in cylinder #1. So I decided to just buy the head for 76$. Is this head a good ordeal or no?

Yeah your right man. I'm reconsidering buying.a head for 350$ ill just invest into a l20b

That's right I'm not that far from getting a head. Thiers actually 2 620 trucks at my local junk yard . Im going tomorrow to check it out.

Is this $350.00 head rebuilt?

What state you live in, there is more than one bloomington.

This head will be rebuilt. I live in Bloomington ca. Or known as Fontana ca

Hha no its not gold plated lol

The shop guy who checked out my head was a Datsun racer himself back in his days. He has a peanut head for 350$

So should just keep the original 210 casting head. I'm on a budget and I just found a peanut head for sale their asking 500$ which is a little bit to much for my liking.

can you post pictures of where it was cracked?

It's cracked internally man. It's not something I can a picture of sorry .

A87 peanut or a w53 peanut

Does any thing change like exhaust ports etc.? Or is it plug and play

So about an hour ago I recieved some sad news. The machine shop I took my head to said it was cracked and that replacing it should be the best thing to do. Although it got me thinking ... Is there a head I could use to inhance the performance of the l16.

If not I'll just replace it with the original a87 head.

@wayno ahhh okay the more i know. thank you. 

Coolant system is pressurized to ~15psi .... Oil pressure is 50-57psi.  Which way do you think the fluid will flow if there is an issue. :)

good point draker. i actually knew of this psi stuff and took apart the motor to see if i could find an crack timing cover or a busted gasket where the water inlet is on the water pump.. but i couldnt find a real obvious sign of damage. 

the real question along with the psi is "in which places do oil and coolant come close to eachother? 

mhmmm interesting. ive been involved in ratsun since october of last year so i stil have alot to learn. i really hope its not an internal crack that will give me trouble again.

but ill take it to get tested tomorrow and ask the shop if an internal crack could be found.

and thank you for this picture. i actually do this oil jacket outlet. Question: is this the only hole that oil goes threw on the block to the head?

OK, I suspect this is a 210 head, so I will assume it is, I have not heard of other heads doing this, only the 210 head casting.

Dan Hart had a customer with this issue, and I had this issue also long after Dan figured it out, and he is how I found out what the issue was.

I found that driving around town was not an issue, I never got oil in the radiator, but when I went on the hiway for an extended period of time, I always had oil in the radiator, and this is why, your head is cracked internally near the oil jacket in the head, it is not cracked on the outside of the head anywhere, this fact drove Dan Hart crazy, he finally gave up and bought and installed a new head, and the issue went away, so after the engine was fixed and gone, he took that head and sliced it like a loaf of bread until he found the crack between the oil jacket and the water jacket.

Get another head unless you like changing headgaskets a lot, as it will never go away until the head goes away.

i just checked what kind of head it was and it says its a "A87" idk if this still matter but i can totally relate to your story. which seem exactly what is occuring to me. can i still take my head to get it checked? and will the head shop find this crack in the water inlet? 

Only place oil can get into the water on the head is around the oil feed hole up from the block to the cam towers.... very unlikely but I would look there for cracks.

ahhh okay and this oil feed your talking about is on the back of the block/head right.?

should i see cracks on the head or the block? 

hello Datsun fam i have an issue that i cant seem to find an answer for. Before i get started YES i have done my research but havnt found a reasonable solution. But i hope i can end this problem here. lets get to it.

i have a 1973 620 pickup truck w/ a L16 motor stock everything. when i first got the truck it had oil in the coolant caused by a bad headgasket which was fixed by the time it was given to me.  first thing i did was obviously flush the system and when on to drive the truck with no problem. a month later i had oil in the coolant once again. so i flushed it a second time and drove the truck the same way keeping an eye on the coolant. 3months  passes by and the coolant is oil free. when all of a sudden i wake up to radiator full of oil -____-  i suspect its a headgasket but it runs great and the tempt is constant. so at this point im stumped. i actually took off the head to find out the head gasket was fine. 

NOTE: i get oil in the coolant but NO coolant in the oil..

ive read it could be a warp head, or a cracked head, a head gasket and etc.

what could lead to this issue??