lilhslr

Thanks for the ideas. I tried the quick stop to check the fuel chamber levels. They looked okay the few times I tried that. Just popped the distributor cap to check the points (should have probably looked there before posting as well). They're pretty badly pitted as you should probably see from the photo, so I'll replace them and the condenser to see if that sorts the issue. But any ideas on what might be going on upstream to cause such bad pitting? As per my first post, the alternator seemed to be kicking up way too many volts so I've since replaced it. Could that have caused it? Could this also mean the coil might need replacing? I guess I can just replace the points and condenser and see if the problem is solved and pitting doesn't appear to be coming back. And any ideas why, if the points and/or condenser are the problem here, it only affects driving after a few minutes of a restart? The condenser is just a capacitor right, so I suppose interrupting the circuit with a re-ignition might clear it up temporarily, but I'm way out of my depth here.

So I'll try to keep this brief, my '74 620 with a stock l18 setup is bogging after several minutes of normal driving. When it starts to bog, there's no power and it feels like it's just not getting enough fuel or running on one or two cylinders. It doesn't die entirely, and out of gear it will rev pretty much normally, but it just can't generate any power in gear at all. I was suspecting a fuel supply issue but the fuel level looks fine in the carb when this is happening. Also thought the electronic choke might be coming back on, but that doesn't look like the case either. What's very odd (at least to me) is that restarting the truck seems to reset the issue, at least for a few minutes of normal driving. But the issue pops up again, seemingly after I accelerate up to speed normally at least once or twice (but my tests here are less than scientific so far). But again, just pulling over and shutting the truck off and restarting lets me drive away normally again, but only for a limited time. I wouldn't normally think electrical except for noticing a while back that the alternator was seemingly putting out 18+ volts. This was messing with some of my accessories like the stereo (wouldn't work when running, only on battery). So I replaced the voltage regulator and the alternator and we're back to normal output with accessories working properly. But I wonder if it possibly fried other things on the ignition system in the meantime. Hoping for some insights before I just start replacing things willy nilly.

nice collection. me jealous.

It's not quite as clean under there. And now I feel dirty.

Had this for almost 3 years now, been a regular snooper on the site, but never got around to posting. This is a '74, mostly original, and in unbelievable shape for something surviving 40 below winters. Not really a daily driver, but I do use it often. Runs well, though had some carb issues lately, but seem to have those ironed out now.

I was having issues with mine when I first got it. Didn't take long to figure out that the seals on the mechanical fuel pump were in bad shape and that caused fuel/oil to leak. The alternator on my 74 is pretty much right under the fuel pump. After fixing the fuel pump (just replaced it), it's been great since. Also greatly reduced the puddles I was leaving all over town.

Seems like I have a similar problem as well. Been fighting with it for weeks. Adjusted the accelerator pump lever arm to the hole farthest from the pump and that seems to have helped a bit. There's still a bit of a stutter when it's cold but after it warms up, the stutter is almost gone completely. carb could probably due with a complete clean and rebuild, but I'd probably only make it worse.