edin

I thought I had chased the threads before the block got hot tanked. I probably didn't. I often think I'm being more diligent than I am. The front cover isn't sealing pressurized oil, so maybe missing one bolt if I can't get it out isn't the end of the world... I should find that missing bolt though.

Hi folks-- I was installing the front cover last night on my L18 and broke a bolt. Whoops. Was being sloppy and overtorqued it. When I tore down the engine, I was really diligent with marking every bolt that came off the car but I seem to be missing one... I'm going to try to get the broken bolt out and redo with a new set of bolts. I know that some places offer kits, but I'm on the east coast and would like this engine back in the car this weekend. Anyone know the specs on the front cover bolts? Thread diameter, pitch, and length? Would like to be able to pick up locally and get this thing sorted. e

I own it. Responded in PM

Sorry I've been entertaining out of town friends for like the past week haha haven't had a chance to do this yet but will soon. It will have the same logo but I'll probably remove the rising sun part and keep the bottom...

I for sure get and respect that. I'm American by nationality, Chinese by ethnicity. I identify strongly with Chinese traditions and customs, but have almost zero identification with Chinese history-- past or present. The motivation with that quote was because I wanted the badge to be ironic-- aesthetically, unmistakably vintage American, and yet contain a goofy, goofy slogan by a Japanese company that really emphasizes the age of these cars -- you would never see a slogan now like that.

My only reservation with sweatshirts is that they're going to run more in the $35 - $40 range and more for shipping. If folks are down for that I agree that the "logo" spin would look pretty dope on a sweatshirt. Although I think a hoodless sweatshirt would be the move here

I miss when this thread was about me.

Ok-- I'll come back with a few ideas on the stylized wagon above. RatVonDude's suggestion to just do the Datsun logo made me want to do a fun spin on the logo... I read that "The rising sun as the flag and Datsun as the car of choice" was actually a Datsun slogan at some point?

Hi all, I've been playing around a bit with trying to make a cool goon graphic to be used on some sort of screen print, probably t-shirts. Eventually I want to get into diy screen printing and crank out a bunch of posters. Anyway, I would be interested in selling shirts you all shirts with this or a similar graphic. Any thoughts on text? I've been playing around with just DATSUN, GOON, and SWAGON. I think swagon is hilarious, but it's definitely not for everybody. I'd appreciate any feedback. Thanks! Eric

Yeah yeah yeah alright alright I get it. Vice grips were because the bolts sheared and are stuck inside the downpipe. I'll move back to the stock manifold eventually but it's still in NH and I'm in Chicago for the summer. Thanks for the input, folks. Seems rather unanimous that headers are the wrong choice. Whatever, I'm learnin.

this thread helped me out a lot, so time to pay it forward. Konig Rewinds 15x7, 0 offset Yokohama Avid Ascend 185/55R15 Front: zx struts with the perch lowered about 2.25" compared to stock. Not sure what that means compared to stock 510 struts. No fender roll Rear I'm running something slightly less than 2.5" blocks. I ended up throwing some monroe air shocks in the back so I could load up with stuff and I have to air up to like 15 psi to combat rubs around town so I imagine I'm about 2" lower than stock in the rear. Too much bondo means no fender rolls Pretty happy with it for the most part. I'm not going as low as I could in the rear because I rub, but I could cut out that inner fender lip and drop it down another couple of inches.

So returning the headers isn't an option (bought them used from ratsun, actually). Izzo told me my wagon's got an L18 swap. I'm also thinking the motor mounts are pretty shot because that thing moves A LOT. I'll start with replacing motor mounts and see if it pushes it up a little more for more clearance and dent the rest of the way for clearance on the steering arm.

What are my options here? I tried to search ratsun for similar issues but could only find classified ads...

In an effort to improve and prep my goon for a drive from NH to IL (it already made it from CA to NH nine months ago), I decided that the vice grips holding the down pipe to exhaust manifold needed to go. I got myself a set of tube headers (unknown mfr) and installed them last week. Two issues: Small and a nuisance: On startup and rough idle, they tap against the frame rails. Sounds pretty jank. Not a huge deal. Big and fairly unacceptable: there is some pretty significant interference between the steering arm and headers. I can only turn the wheel one revolution left, but I have full lock right. Anyone see this before? I feel like if the headers were made for a 510, they should take into account the stock steering and body. My only thought is that the standoff I have for the dogleg 5spd swap could be slightly off which is making the headers point down to have more interference with the steering rack. Thoughts? Pics to follow soon.

Yep good question. It's not something I necessarily agree with but I've spent the majority of my time on the electrical system and wasn't a big voice in the suspension/chassis design reviews. They require the pushrods to be rather long which increases the chances of buckling. From what I understand, though, I think there was some binding/interference issues that were unforseen in chassis design that came up later in suspension design and this is where they ended up. I know that justifying suspension decisions from chassis decisions is a bit backwards, but limited time, knowledge, skills at the beginning of the project had a huge impact here. We've learned a lot.