derekg

3 hours ago, Dguy210 said:

Yes, 97045. 

UPS looks like $26 per box and there are 6 boxes, so $156. Each box weighs in between 31 - 35 pounds. I didn't realize I had collected so many manuals :)

4 hours ago, obrut said:

Are they all manuals or are any of them the monthly news letters?  I have some of the news letters and I know they are online to read, I just like actually looking at paper when I read.

Sorry, only manuals.

I boxed them all yesterday. Will weigh them and see if I can calculate. Is your zip 97045?

Hi Folks,

For those not on the same Facebook groups:

Hey folks, I picked up another car and really would like it all one color 🙂

Any of you in the Bay Area do spraying from your own shop or garage? Or can you recommend?

Thanks, Derek

Hi Folks,

Paolo Musante/Axsys Technologies Ltd. has made available for download his hi-resolution color wiring diagrams for the Datsun 510. These are vector-based PDFs with layers, allowing you to zoom in very far with great detail, as well as having the ability to turn on/off certain wire colors or components, depending on whether your PDF viewer software allows layered functions. Paolo sells these printed as dual-sided 11x17 laminated reference cards for easy reference. There are 8 PDF files in the set including:

#1 – 1968 510 Sedan

#2 – 1968 510 Wagon

#3 – 1969 510 Sedan

#4 – 1969 510 Wagon

#5 – 1970-72 510 Sedan Automatic

#6 – 1970-72 510 Wagon Automatic

#7 - 1970-72 510 Sedan Manual

#8 - 1970-72 510 Wagon Manual

Downloads available at http://datsun510.com or if you would like a high quality laminated hard copy contact Paolo directly by contacting him on the bluebirds mailing list.

Thanks, Derek

Hi Folks, I just uploaded a whole bunch of new wiring diagrams. Log in at http://datsun510.com and check the downloads section to access.

Hi Folks, I just uploaded a slew of wiring diagrams to datsun510.com. These are a combination of FSM and Mitchell. There are over 60 available in the Downloads section after you log in with many more coming next week. These are all original scans and not nicked from the web or other folks. As such, the FSM were scanned at 200DPI and the Mitchell at 150DPI. There's also been quite a bit of cleanup to the images including sizing and splicing the Mitchell halves as well as the standard rotate, crop, resize, etc. FSM files are mostly between 85MB-100MB and can be zoomed in quite a bit with higher resolution. The Mitchell ones are mostly around 35MB.

As with each thing going up on datsun510.com, I'm happy to donate the time to make it happen if any folks wish to contribute to the purchase and scan prices of additional material. These, like everything else uploaded, are available for free. If you have a few extra bucks and wish to donate, my PayPal is derek - at - datsun510 - dot - com and the donations will go directly to acquiring more goodies for everyone.

Thanks, Derek

On 3/18/2021 at 1:13 PM, bananahamuck said:

Switch out to 70-72 510 ..  you will need to change your cars end to metric or use adapter , but much cheaper and easier in long run . 
 

about $6. On rockauto 

Great idea. I found some on fleabay for $53, which is a drag, but already bought them and rebuilt the cylinders. Will do the swap at some point when I install Mike's front brake kit. Thanks for the idea though for when these inevitably fail.

On 3/15/2021 at 11:38 AM, Rusty Dawg said:

On a side note, you have a 4 speed on the column, correct? 

No, I'm 4 on the floor for now.

Went to bleed the brakes today and the rear drivers side has a puddle. Pulled the wheel cylinder and the seal has a huge chunk out of it. Great. I rebuilt these just a year ago with almost no miles on the car. Crappy rubber I figure. At any rate, is there a good seal kit available? I only see stuff on eBay from unknown origin. Napa or Raybestos or whatever else would be great.

Thanks, Derek

Ah, you folks are awesome! Thanks for all the info. Sure beats pulling parts off the car.

Derek

Howdy folks,

Am tired of the felt front cover seal leaking, so want to modify to use a rubber style seal. Does anyone have a J13 crank pulley laying around that can measure the diameter of the seal surface? I'd rather not go through the hassle of pulling the one on the car if possible. Also, there was a thread here (can't find it now) about someone that did a front seal modification on a J13. I think it was for a 520, but again, not finding it in search. They may have listed the seal part number.

Thanks, Derek

The phase angles can be run at 0 degrees and you will want slope angle to be less than 3 degrees at full extension of the suspension (not jacked up off the ground, but what you believe will be the extent of your suspension travel while driving). With a fixed center like in a 510 it is not good to run both at 0 degrees, but with a live axle you will have movement constantly changing the slope angle. You should also triangulate the lateral (side to side) alignment of the centerline of the crank to the tailshaft as one plane and the input and axis of the pinion as the other plane. This can't be done with the inclinometer, but can be done with string, plumbobs, and a lot of patience. If lateral alignment is off then the driveshaft will have a jumprope affect as well as stress on the U-joints. Funny thing is that nobody speaks about it in any engine swap article since it is a pain to set up and measure.

Let me know if someone has an OEM rebuildable core available. This would be the one with the circlip holding in the spool. I just pulled mine to rebuild it and realized it was an aftermarket, so the seals won't fit. Would rather have an original than fit another rebuilt aftermarket unit.

Thanks, Derek

Howdy folks,

Am seeing a lot of eBay ads for J12/J13/J15/J16 fuel pumps, but the pump looks different than my 1966 411 J13. Anyone sure if they are the same? Mine can't keep up with demand and needs replacing, so want to verify before buying.

Thanks, Derek

Thanks. I'll see if I can get a spare Roadster one to test. Otherwise I found a couple places that will rebuild it.

Looks like mine has bitten the dust (1966 P411 J13). Wiring and gauge (and voltage reg) are fine as a short between the black and yellow wires runs the gauge to past full. Any idea of there are compatible replacements from other cars? I'm not seeing any 411 models on my searched.

Thanks, Derek

Howdy, my 66 sedan has some hokey PO straps bolted to the rear floor. Does anyone have good pics of the stock seat belts for the sedan? Any idea of donors or choices?

Thanks, Derek

Holy sh*t. Just pulled the sender and looked in the tank. They must have pressurized it heavily because the tank has pulled away from the inner baffles. It hasn't broken the spot welds, but that has got to be more than 4PSI.

Thanks. Mine is definitely bloated and more round. I guess the pressure check must have done it. I appreciate the pics and will carefully try to reshape it.

Uploaded 5 tank images here:

http://datsun510.com/index.php?/gallery/album/813-datsun-411-stuff/

Tank metal is thick, so just doesn't seem like it should have changed from compressed air. Let me know thoughts...

Nope. And the contours look correct. I just pulled the straps also to get them out of the way in case they were somehow binding. No cigar.

Howdy, pulled my fuel tank from my 1966 411 sedan and got it boiled out. When it came back it no longer seems to fit. The center bottom is clearly hitting on the "hump" in the body. The straps no longer are the correct length. I figured I was just an idiot and pulled the tank again and this time took out both of the bottom fittings as they made it difficult to get in and out of the car. It clearly sits on the tank middle and not in the mounts. Any chance one of you have good pics of the stock tank in the car as well as the bottom of the tank? I'm reluctant to reshape it with a dead blow hammer, but really don't like it not sitting correctly. The thing is the tank does not look any different from when I gave it to the shop. This is puzzling and frustrating.

Thanks, Derek