Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

56 Good

About derekg

  • Rank
    Hall Monitor
  • Birthday 11/27/1967

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Oakland, CA

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Ah, you folks are awesome! Thanks for all the info. Sure beats pulling parts off the car. Derek
  2. Howdy folks, Am tired of the felt front cover seal leaking, so want to modify to use a rubber style seal. Does anyone have a J13 crank pulley laying around that can measure the diameter of the seal surface? I'd rather not go through the hassle of pulling the one on the car if possible. Also, there was a thread here (can't find it now) about someone that did a front seal modification on a J13. I think it was for a 520, but again, not finding it in search. They may have listed the seal part number. Thanks, Derek
  3. The phase angles can be run at 0 degrees and you will want slope angle to be less than 3 degrees at full extension of the suspension (not jacked up off the ground, but what you believe will be the extent of your suspension travel while driving). With a fixed center like in a 510 it is not good to run both at 0 degrees, but with a live axle you will have movement constantly changing the slope angle. You should also triangulate the lateral (side to side) alignment of the centerline of the crank to the tailshaft as one plane and the input and axis of the pinion as the other plane. This can't be done with the inclinometer, but can be done with string, plumbobs, and a lot of patience. If lateral alignment is off then the driveshaft will have a jumprope affect as well as stress on the U-joints. Funny thing is that nobody speaks about it in any engine swap article since it is a pain to set up and measure.
  4. Let me know if someone has an OEM rebuildable core available. This would be the one with the circlip holding in the spool. I just pulled mine to rebuild it and realized it was an aftermarket, so the seals won't fit. Would rather have an original than fit another rebuilt aftermarket unit. Thanks, Derek
  5. Howdy folks, Am seeing a lot of eBay ads for J12/J13/J15/J16 fuel pumps, but the pump looks different than my 1966 411 J13. Anyone sure if they are the same? Mine can't keep up with demand and needs replacing, so want to verify before buying. Thanks, Derek
  6. Thanks. I'll see if I can get a spare Roadster one to test. Otherwise I found a couple places that will rebuild it.
  7. Looks like mine has bitten the dust (1966 P411 J13). Wiring and gauge (and voltage reg) are fine as a short between the black and yellow wires runs the gauge to past full. Any idea of there are compatible replacements from other cars? I'm not seeing any 411 models on my searched. Thanks, Derek
  8. Howdy, my 66 sedan has some hokey PO straps bolted to the rear floor. Does anyone have good pics of the stock seat belts for the sedan? Any idea of donors or choices? Thanks, Derek
  9. Time Left: 3 days and 8 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    Looking for a NAPZ EFI intake manifold and throttle body.


  10. Holy sh*t. Just pulled the sender and looked in the tank. They must have pressurized it heavily because the tank has pulled away from the inner baffles. It hasn't broken the spot welds, but that has got to be more than 4PSI.
  11. Thanks. Mine is definitely bloated and more round. I guess the pressure check must have done it. I appreciate the pics and will carefully try to reshape it.
  12. Uploaded 5 tank images here: http://datsun510.com/index.php?/gallery/album/813-datsun-411-stuff/ Tank metal is thick, so just doesn't seem like it should have changed from compressed air. Let me know thoughts...
  13. Nope. And the contours look correct. I just pulled the straps also to get them out of the way in case they were somehow binding. No cigar.
  14. Howdy, pulled my fuel tank from my 1966 411 sedan and got it boiled out. When it came back it no longer seems to fit. The center bottom is clearly hitting on the "hump" in the body. The straps no longer are the correct length. I figured I was just an idiot and pulled the tank again and this time took out both of the bottom fittings as they made it difficult to get in and out of the car. It clearly sits on the tank middle and not in the mounts. Any chance one of you have good pics of the stock tank in the car as well as the bottom of the tank? I'm reluctant to reshape it with a dead blow hammer, but really don't like it not sitting correctly. The thing is the tank does not look any different from when I gave it to the shop. This is puzzling and frustrating. Thanks, Derek
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.