jboulukos

Hey guys,

I'm headed to Tokyo and wanted to inquire if there are any parts stores that have NOS OEM Nissan/Datsun parts.  For example, it would be fun to find a new original Hitachi carburetor for my '78 B210(120Y).  Anyone know of any places within Tokyo or day trip from Tokyo?

Thanks!

Right?!  Midwest style.  Generation X.  

The Datsun gods are smiling on us.

23 hours ago, charolastra said:

We posted here

I think we are neighbors, I live by 101 and Francisco, also my wife said she saw your car by 99th and Francisco

oh nice.  yeah, 98th and Washtenaw. We should meet up.

On 10/31/2022 at 8:44 PM, datzenmike said:

There is no advantage to using a vented gas cap. If your system is in working order the tank has a designed in dedicated vent pipe to the charcoal canister by the engine so it already has a can breath. This system collects evaporated gas fumes and keeps them out of the environment and any chance of getting back into the car. When the engine is started the fumes are drawn into the intake manifold and burned in the engine. No sense wasting that stuff.

My B210 will smell like gas inside the cabin, which I like.  I know the gas tank is right behind the rear seatback.  Do you think the vented cap may decrease the gas smell in the car's cabin?  It usually is more smelling of gas the longer it has been sitting.

Is there any benefit to having a vented fuel tank cap?  A friend of mine is hell bent on allowing the gas tank to breathe.

On 10/27/2022 at 11:48 PM, charolastra said:

Hey jboulukos how are you?

I don't know if you remember me, I'm from Chicago, just moved to Evergreen Park too.

Also own a B210 4 doors what's new my friend?

I don't remember man. Did we cross paths?  Thanks for reaching out!

Issue was completely fixed with a new battery and a rebuilt alternator.

Alright so I found the issue.  I accidentally left my lights on yesterday for about 4 hours.  It lowered the battery.  The “CHG” light started dimly glowing and increases in brightness while hitting the gas, along with the “brake” light being on at a steady intensity. I charged the battery a bit and it improved with the “brake” light going off and the chg light glowing dimly.  I guess I just need to trickle charge it overnight.  Seems to be fixed now and part of what happens during a low battery level.  And I vaguely remember this occurring in the past.   All good now. 

16 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

Sounds like the switch is getting stuck....

Can you access the switch and unplug it? Light should instantly go out if that's the issue...

Is the switch located behind the instrument cluster?  

Hey, I put my parking brake on while parked for 5 hours.  It hadn’t been used for about a year and I wanted to use it so it wouldn’t freeze up.  When I went to disengage the parking brake, it seemed to disengage the actual brake however the instrument cluster “brake” light stayed on.  I have driven the car with the light on and I don’t believe that the brake is actually engaged as the light indicates.  My question is how can I get the parking brake light to go off in the instrument cluster?  Is it possible that the brake cable is partially engaged or stuck a bit?  I think this has happened before and will go off in time. Any advice is much appreciated. 

On 10/2/2020 at 9:46 PM, datzenmike said:

You are more likely to see exhaust condensation as the weather cools. Don't mistake something that is normal for something wrong.

 

No need to check compression as it does not change back and forth.

 

There shouldn't be any oil in the combustion chamber to leak out past the spark plug.

Oil does not leak out between the head and the block, but it can from under the valve cover. Spray the wet area clean with carburetor cleaner and watch it every day to locate a leak.

Any oil leak will not affect engine performance.

 

 

 Probably the choke adjustment. 60F is not cold so you won't need much choke.

 

 

 

Thank you. Great info as usual.  Car is back to running great.  Here’s what I did today. Removed the air cleaner housing, sprayed the throttle linkage? With carb cleaner and scrubbed with toothbrush. Seemed a bit loose as far as metal arms/joints sliding about, however intact. Adjusted the choke back to original position from the last 4 years which happened to be turned to the right, around 2 o’clock. Took the choke electric wire out of its socket connection and pushed it back it tightly.  Tested the diaphragm saucers...the one at the distributor was fine (no air sucked through),

the carb has two...the larger one one the passenger side rear (of the carb) was fine (no air sucked through), heard a little thud (diaphragm working to block air passage?)

and then the other little diaphragm with I think is referred to as the dash pot...

this thing allowed air through and part of the mechanism behind it moved too.  Not sure if that’s normal. 
Either way, I started it up. Seemed to start up fine. Needed a little gas.  I moved the idle screw a bit and returned it back to its position.  Sprayed some silicone on the large rubber hoses that connect to the air filter housing and then buttoned everything up.  Car seemed to return to its normal low hum and normal acceleration power.  So I guess it was the choke after all.  
 

8 hours ago, afracer said:

Check for vacuum leaks at the distributor and choke pull off. The diaphragms on them degrade and split over time. I just bought a 85k mile 210 and both vacuum advance canister and choke pull off were leaking vacuum and inoperable.

Regarding the diaphragms, are you taking about the carb...the saucer looking things?  How can I test them? if they are shot, can I replace them with diaphragms from an extra carb?  Thanks for the direction.

Car start still remains poor, as if it is about to start but then stops, require 6-12 attempts that get closer and closer to initiating the engine, then requires repetitive presses of the gas pedal to stay running for the first 10 seconds.  It’s 60 degrees, not cold. I had an oil change today and drove about 60 miles.  Then drove again and within 1 mile was losing power again.  Pulled over, started up the engine and drove a few blocks and the loss of power issue stopped. 
Should I check compression?  I still think I must not have the carburetor adjustments dialed in.  If I had poor compression, would the car run well at certain times then lose power at other times?  

history: 

-oil change today

-great working NOS Kyosan Denki fuel pump

-new fuel filter and new fuel 

-may 2016: new head gasket, exhaust/intake manifold gasket, water outlet gasket, thermostat, new spark plugs/rotor/wires, carb/starter/alternator rebuilt
 

It’s been since 2016 for compression testing. When I changed the cylinder head gasket, I did not have the head milled.  Since that time I haven’t had any issues with coolant loss.  There seems to be a small amount of oil on the passenger side of the cylinder head above the gasket near the ledge area between the first and second spark plug. I have replaced the valve cover gasket 3 days ago. Not sure if that was the issue because the old gasket looked ok and wasn’t more than 6 years old.  Can oil sometimes leak out of the spark plug hole or at the junction of the valve cover and cylinder head?  Not sure if that small leak is related to the loss of power. I still think it’s the carburetor.  I recently adjusted the choke and thought it was all set but then the next cold start went poorly again.   Would adjusting the idle help the loss of power?  Maybe I should return to the choke and readjust. When the car is running, it sounds as though it could be more smooth even when there isn’t the loss of power.  Am I on the right track? 

Drove nice after warming up. No significant white smoke.  Radiator full of coolant. 
Oil change scheduled for Wednesday. 

Started rough again this morning. White smoke and engine would die when gas lightly pressed in park. Idled fasted than usual, due to choke adjustment. White smoke and dripping of some fluid coming from tailpipe. Warmed up and started to idle better. Starts right up after it is warm. Help.  

-Plugs are NGK

-new plugs/rotor/wires 6/2016 and less than 2500 miles

I found some rear shock absorbers on rockauto. $28 each...don’t know this brand though. 

 

they also had front struts for the B210. Any thoughts on these? 

4 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Replace the fuel filter. Should be done every 3 years so probably due. They are cheap and definitely no harm done if it doesn't help.

 

Carburetor spray will clean but WD-40 is mostly Xylene a hydrocarbon solvent used mostly for it's smell. It also contains some mineral oil that also lubricates slightly.

Fuel filter was changed last week.  I’ve done about 190 miles and hesitation is more and more rare although happened today for the first time in 3-4 days.

I sprayed the carb cleaner on the linkage.  I’ll hit it with the Wd-40 tomorrow.  
Also I am wondering about the suspension.  I have had the car since 2009 and not certain when the shocks/struts were changed.  Are there any recommended struts/shocks that I can grab on rockauto or any recommended brands. A mechanic recommended the brand Sachs.  Do I need to inspect the leaf springs? Are they ever an issue.  Again, nothing has been done to the suspension since I’ve obtained it in 2009 and has been driven about 30,000 miles since that time. 

Car starts and runs well.  Took it around town, 25-50mph.  I was cruising at about 37mph and noticed it starting to lose power, not run steady, hesitating slightly. Then I waiting a minute or so to make a left hand turn and noticed it was losing power when I tried to accelerate from a stopped position. Same issue I had been having the previous week. Turned off the car and started it and everything was fine driving home 4 miles. Not sure what’s going on.  Debris floating around in the carb, blocking a jet at random times?  I still have to spray the linkage. 

2 hours ago, KELMO said:

That filter in the air cleaner housing is a 16565-U6700. Came up NLA through Nissan.

It seems to me that these were used all the way up to early 80's model Sentra.

Great info. What does NLA stand for? 

sorry the photo loaded sideways from the original. This is the last adjustment I made. It’s slightly into the lean side (past 12 o’clock) but not nearly as lean as it was originally set to. 

Also, where to get this cotton type filter material? 

I followed the directions. Great outcome. My initial carb choke setting was turned to the lean side.

Turned to the rich side, touching the gas a bit, made the choke flat drop flat. The car started so fast I barely heard the starter.

But then I decided it was too rich because of the smell of the exhaust (correct?), and it didn’t rev well.  

Turned it back towards lean side slightly.  Seems to start, idle and rev great. I haven’t driven it yet though.  How is this adjustment best determined to be precise?  Just going by car performance? Smell? Starting quality? Idle quality? Is it trial and error to find the sweet spot?  

On 9/24/2020 at 2:33 PM, datzenmike said:

 

1/ If the radio works I think the light should come on when you turn it on so bulb burned out. If radio does not work check the fuse.

 

2/ Cork gaskets are fine and what Nissan used originally. However over tightening of the valve cover bolts can distort the valve cover and it won't seal properly. Use a short straight edge and a hammer and dolly and try to flatten out any dimpling around the bolt holes.

 

3/ The carburetor has a float chamber that holds 1/3 to 1/2 cup of gas. Many times more than what would be needed to start the car with. You could remove the pump and the car should still start. Take the top off the air filter and look. The primary barrel has a choke clap and when cold it should be about 1/2 closed. This is not an EFI engine and has a choke that needs the gas pedal stepped on to engage the it. In colder weather maybe 2 or even 3 pumps of the gas pedal. If you are not doing this then try it. Have someone step on the gas pedal and release. You should see the choke flap snap fully closed. Does it????

 

4/ I used 10w30 in my new '67 B-210 and Ontario winters can't be much different that Chicago. 10w30 is good to about -10 F and up to 100F. 5W30 is ok to use as long as the temperature does not go above freezing. When severely cold even with a new battery, often it would only turn 2-3 times and stop. Battery and/ or starters may be too small for severe weather. What I did was install a block heater. You can leave plugged in all night or on a timer for 2-3 hours before you need it. The other thing was a electric blanket made for the battery. You have to plug in the block heater anyway so why not keep the battery warm also. Battery charge is less with a cold battery. At work I would warm it up at noon so it was sure to start that night. Eventually I got an extension cord and plugged it in at work too.

I had a chance to look in the carb as someone pressed the pedal 3 times and attempted to start the car. This was the first start of the day, and the temperature was 60-65 degrees so it was nice outside and not cold. At rest, the carb flap which is on the left side , was half way open. While looking at the carb, although I heard the 3 pedal presses, I did not see the top flat on the left side move. Nor did the flap move during the start.  I eventually got it started within 20 seconds and tapping the pedal. Once started I need to continue to press the pedal or the engine wants to stop. After 10 more seconds of pressing the pedal, the engine idles without wanting to stop. Any thoughts. Do I need to make a carb adjustment? 

Thanks as always for the clarification. 
 

1. radio works, no light = I’ll replace bulb at some point. ✅
2. ordered a cork gasket From Napa, getting today. $6.50 US ✅

3. didn’t do the choke flap inspection yet this morning however I looked at the carb float and the gas was about 20% full, just enough to see the lower 20% of the window full with gas. The start was tough again.  I will look at the choke flap soon.  Could a loose carb base be any issue with this? I frequently find I need to tighten the 4 nuts at the base due to being slightly loose.  I imagine that would be more of a vacuum leak issue though. 
4. I’m going to do 10W30 next week ✅

I’m going to list by number some issues or questions related to the current performance of my B210. Please feel free to reply. 
 

1. I have never had illumination from my original Clarion AM radio nor my ventilation/heating selections. Do you guys know if these areas are meant to illuminate or if they even have lighting/bulbs to be replaced. I checked the manual but could not find anything. Photo posted of instrument cluster from the manual. 

2. The cover on top of the cylinder head seems to be leaking oil. I can see some oil residue on the front cover and shininess on the cylinder head near the front passenger side.   I have changed the gasket in the past and recall it as being made from cork. Should I replace with cork gasket? Or?  Photo attached. 

3. The car is having beginning of the day starting issues.  Starter was replaced a few years back and seems fine.  Ever since I changed the fuel pump to an aftermarket, cheap looking gold thing, the starting hasn’t been the same and seems to be getting worse. I recently checked the fuel line leading to the carb and there was no gas in there. Is it possible the aftermarket fuel pump has a crappy one way valve leading up to the carb? I have a new Kyosan Denki original style fuel pump that I want to put in to see if it helps this starting issue.  Thoughts? Photo of current fuel pump posted 

4. What engine oil do you recommend?