Cal

I know its around 3.5 psi for mikunis. I dont think it would be far off for webers.

yea its been plugged since the motor was built Im told. Ran full blast 11 to 1 compression and never over heated until recently. I then took new thermostat and old one in pan heated up and old one was opening at the same time just in a jerky manner. Plus the new one is supposed to be 60% better flow. So you should think it would be okay but I understand how that this thermostat is off to the side with little flow until opened up so maybe in full race mode once opened it just stayed opened and never needed it? I think removing the air bleeder thing and just leaving that super small open hole would let just enough through to open properly with out having that flow by hose.

u67

My old housing had the flow by port blocked. I just got the new one and it has it on it but cant find where it would go on the motor. No blocked ports by the water inlet. Just the metal inlet at the bottom front of the passenger side with the heating draw hose coming off that. Im told it can cause the problems. The last owners said overheating was never a problem until recently. So I have a new higher flow thermostat and a three bolt housing. Now the question is could I just cut off the air bleeder and let just a small amount of water by. The hole for the air bleed is tiny but I would think big enough to let flow through not enough to inhibit the cooling of the radiator. Ideas? How else could I pipe the bypass hose into the motor with out buying more parts?

A little clip of the previous owner to relive the experince....

My cousin was walking around with a limp from some injury which my Grandpa didnt know about and he yelled out in front of all our family "Jason your walking like you shit in your britches". 90 year old man calling out a dummy made me laugh for days.

You got mail

Broke a bolt then broke a drill bit off in the bolt now I think its toast. Looking for 2 or 3 hole but read that the 3 hole is better and will bolt to the u67 head all the same. Also looking to do this as soon as possible I have to get this thing up for practice in a week. Let me know thanks guys!

The allen bolts are genius. Ill see if I can make those work. On the flares Ill post a closer pic once my buddy gives me the photos he took when we were on the road. They are indeed off a jeep Cherokee. They are the back ones and I can get them for about 4 bucks each so if you want some dont pay too much. You can try and make the front ones work but they need some cutting and look a bit off. You do have to bend and drill some holes but all in all since my car is so ratty in the first place I think its a upgrade. The front set on my car are slopped back too and I think it looks a bit goofy but better then level like the back. Next upgrade too after the skidplate is wheel well liners so Ill post a pic of those. Ill be using old plastic 55 gallon barrels.

Just an update the skid plate making has been slowed down due to a mysterious electrical gremlin thats got me going crazy. In the mean time what do you think of these flares.

Also since I have no access to anything other then a 510 currently thats all I can do. If after the first go at it, and things go well maybe I can get someone to bring me a 610 and Ill make a template.

Wow didnt think It would get this much attention! About the price its a total shot in the dark each one would have to be hand made since I have little in the way of machining so I went higher then lower. Who knows I might be able to do it for 200 shipped or maybe lower still no real ballpark until I have mine made. As a note these would not be super awesome skid plates like some of the first ones pictured, I could add holes ect but it would more a less be a well thought out sheet cut to spec and properly bent. My goal is to make it cover as much area as securely as possible and be cheap most of you guys dont see the bottom side so I figured it would be a good match. Anybody that wants to help in development like "hey Cal this is a super weak spot I busted it when I tried this" Id be willing to give a discount on the plate. As far as the multi pieces I will try to make it so they link together. Im drafting a few designs to keep it from getting caught and ripping off or sacrificing coverage of critical areas.This is what I suspect them to look like but much more in the way of connecting points. So some of you would only want oil pan coverage? So maybe I can make a 3 piece, with 2 pieces covering engine bay split long ways so there is some overlap in the middle to make it a stronger spot to help protect oil pan then a 3rd piece to extend to tranny protection.

So Ill be making a custom skid plate out of aluminum shortly and was curious if any of you guys that lower your cars would want to buy one? I would try to keep the price very cheap and make it either 2 piece or 1 piece. I plan for it to go from very front of car to around the trans mount maybe a bit further depending on bolt locations. Im just gauging interest to see if I should be making a template. It would be made from T6 aluminum at 3/16th, prices would be around 200ish but that is just a guess based on cost of the metal. Again this is just seeing if I should make a template so gauging interest.

Also the speedo has 530k on it, my diesels don't even go that high! It's a ratsun 510 for sure

Well to be honest 150 is a stretch but it should be between 150-140 at the wheels, was dynoed at 138 before the valves were redone and other headwork. That was causing some serious compression drop. It was also out of tune at the dyno(carbs) so im assuming upwards of 10hp out of bad valves and a bad tune. Since I wasnt sure on all the numbers heres the exact numbers this was at the 138 HP so it has been changed a bit z22 DISP. 2188.7cc Previous owner stated it was at 2.3? Bore 3.427 Stroke 3.62 CR=10.72-1 Mods Lightened flywheel ported head Reground Cam aftermarket refaced rocker arms Nissan comp valve springs nissan comp lash pads Cam tower shims Mikuni 44s Electric ignition Long tube headers U67 shaved Balanced Runs on a min of 98 Has over 4k of work done to it. What im curious about is how does Troy Ermish get 200hp torque out of his 2.3 block for under 3k. Thats my next upgrade! Let me say my butt dyno feels like its much more, I get wheel spin on hard pulls in second and a little in third with rally tires so grip is like zero but still haha.