az_rat210

After bleeding you will need to readjust the slave cylinder rod and the clutch pedal.

At the withdrawal lever 1-2 mm of free travel or play in the fork.

At the pedal 6 inches of height with 16-33 mm of free travel although you can do with less than 6 inches.

Those parts should always be adjusted after bleeding.

The above is from my 78 shop manual, but I have been using those same settings for my fs5w60a.

I installed the pegasus bearings this past weekend and it is an awesome upgrade.  Throttle shaft no longer sticks and idles down all the way.

No, I bled it with a vacuum pump.  And it is still hard and firm, makes for a nice leg work out.  Problem is the datsun is my only vehicle.  It's 3 buses to get to work and the bus shuts down before I get off, so a 10 mile walk home. *facepalm* Going to have to keep driving it until I can get in there and fix it, or take on a car payment so I can fix it.  It does shift and drive fine, at least.

On 2/28/2020 at 7:36 AM, banzai510(hainz) said:

aluminized pipe and 1.75 inch is more than enough for a Toy motor.

 

take the muffler back for cash back.

 

$ 300max as your not going to see power increase with this, Getting a weber car will be more power if you don't have one already

He may not have more actual power, but increasing the exhaust size does allow the engine to breath better.  Going to a 1.75 exhaust on mine improved throttle response and acceleration dramatically as I was no longer holding up traffic accelerating onto the interstate.

p.s. A resonator before the muffler helps deepen the exhaust tone nicely.  I paid $160 when I had mine done back in 08 which included piping, muffler and resonator (hope this helps with some idea of pricing as $600 is just licensed theft).

I bled the clutch this morning and readjusted it.  I seem to have good pedal height now and will see how it drives going to work.  If the pedal is still hard then I think it will be time to enter the transmission.  I have a spare clutch, just need to order a throwout bearing.  Wish I had a spare flywheel I could take in and get resurfaced and trued up, just in case.

I just wanted to post "Stay Healthy My Friends".  God Bless each and everyone one of you.  For myself, 5K mg Vitamin C everyday plus Sambucol.  I work at a hospital so social distancing is rather difficult.  Just be careful.

More years than major miles.  The clutch and master cylinder are several years old, the clutch was new when I put the transmission in back in 09 about.  I have only put about 50K on the car.  I have to work this afternoon (so gotta drive the car) but am planning on bleeding the clutch tomorrow morning (if i wake up in time).

Thanks Mike,  I knew I could count on you.  Dear Lord I hope it is not a clutch spring, but I had forgotten about noise when a throwout bearing goes bad.  No noise from mine.

Was driving this morning and the clutch suddenly went from easy to hard to push on my Datsun B210 5 speed  FS5W60A.  Throw out bearing or could the slave cylinder cause that?

The fluid level is fine.  It has been a while since I bled the hydraulic clutch, but this was a sudden change while driving where one push to shift was easy and then the next one was hard, so no gradual overtime change.

I will note that I had to replace my speedometer drive pinion gear and went from 75w120 gear oil to MT90 (from redline).  Thats the only recent change to the tranny.

Mike, thanks again for all the info.  Sounds like the counterman was looking for an up sale opportunity.  The stuff you pointed me to is different than what I kept getting hits on.  Glad I asked or I might have ordered the wrong product.

Ebay, a guy in Gallup, New Mexico is parting out several B210 and 210's.  You may be able to get some donor strut assemblies from him.

Surprised no one has responded to this.  The key factors is what type of head the car has.  The head type is stamped into the head inside of the top on spark plug side (if I remember correctly).  Just removing the valve cover will allow you to see the head type which you can then Google to see if its a round port of Oval port head.  B210's with an A14 generally came with an H89 Oval Port head. (the ports in question being intake ports).   And now that I think of it, just looking at the intake where it meets the head will tell you round or oval.

Actually I am reading fast.  I had 185/65 R14s on the car which were larger and was 10% off; which was easy enough to calculate.  I recently had to purchase new tires and after some research found that the 185/60 R14 matched the stock tire for height and rotations per mile.  The stock tires turned 886 revs per mile and the 60s turn 887 per mile.  Switching out to that shorter tire to match the original 13's in height caused the speedometer to up in variation.  I tested this using the speed trap down the road from me and it now shows me doing 37 when speedometer reads 43 and at 50 on the speedometer I was reading somewhere around 43.  So about 12-14%.

The current transmission in my car is the FS5W60A standard pattern, and yep it is an auto differential.  I did not know the differential was 3.88 though.  I was thinking it was 3.9.

Was just looking at datsun1200.com's speedo gear page and the default a 60 series would be 16T, so 16x.12 or .14 yields me a nearest teeth increase of 2.  Guess I should by an 18T gear, that should at least bring me down to +/-3%.

Mike are you able to link me the AC Delco oil you are using?  If not then I might have to go with Red Line MT-90 75W90 (website says its GL-4).

Additional question.  Will the speedometer gear from a 1200 or Z car fit into an FS5W60A transmission (from a B310/210), and does anyone have the 210 shop manual that listed the stock  speedometer gear ration?  My manual list for the FS5W63A as a 16/5.  Currently have about 12-14% difference in speedometer readings (prior to suddenly not having a speedometer).

I usually push in at speedometer by holding the inside wire, never have had any problems with seating it. Going out this morning to see what I can achieve.

I found this http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Instrument_Panel_Wiring

Check the page it has information like below that might help you out.

First thing I did was go back to midas parking lot, disconnect, reseat and reconnect the cable at both ends to no avail.  Royal Purple claims their max gear oil is yellow metal safe (brass, bronze,  copper).  Stuff is expensive though.  Thanks for all the input Mike, I knew I could count on you to help me straighten out my head and get me pointed correctly.

3 hours ago, datzenmike said:

*The pinion is held in with a 10mm bolt and a key that fits the pinion sleeve. Once the bolt is removed, the pinion should be wiggled loose and pulled straight out. Do not twist or you may crush the soft plastic gear. Have a pan ready to catch the oil. when inserting the pinion make sure to line up the key way and push straight in. Do not twist!

Thanks very much for this, I probably would have broken the gear like I do door panels.

I was asked yesterday if I had any hitachi carbs.  Appears the guy needed the fuel cut off solenoid for his.  He just brought a 75 B210 out from el paso to tucson here, and said he would sell it for $500.  I am definitely considering it.  I think he lives in my area but I did not get his phone number....*sigh*.

I had my rear brakes worked on at Midas, and asked them to pull out the worm gear and check the number of teeth and color so I could find out what I need to improve my speedometer accuracy.  The manager said he started to remove it and fluid came out so he pushed it back in and did not fully remove it.

Did the worm gear become disengaged?  Do I just need to jack up the rear of the car, pull it and reseat it?

Enquiring Minds want to know.

Heh, I ain't got time to bleed but had time enough to duck.  I am alright, no immediate injuries.  Next few days will tell as  to whether my back is ok or not.  Taking the car to a body shop tomorrow to get an opinion.  I hope I am wrong about the floor pan bend.  Maybe she (the car) is salvageable, if not 😭.

I was rear ended yesterday when forced to lock up the brakes (damn Texas driver came to a complete stop in standard lane because he missed his left hand turn).  Impact was all rear right side which shifted things by about an inch.  Enough to bend the rear frame bar, right side quarterpanel buckled some and it looks like the right side of the rear floor pan has moved an inch or so.

DAMMIT!   I will know for sure this week when I take it to a body shop.  Currently not having alot of luck finding a B210 body around Tucson.

Ok, here is blownb310's car domain link. Hope this helps you out.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2447688/1977-datsun-b210/

Try this page for boring over http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Justy_Piston_Swap

Mike bored out an A14 to 1600cc for his Ice Racer and used Justy Pistons.  I will see if I can find more info on this from the Yahoo Forum.

Resonator to  Turbo Muffler on mine I think.  The resonator definitely helps bring the exhaust frequency down in pitch  so it does not sound like a fart can.

Welp it looks like my time has come also.  Broke down and bought a 1200 aluminum radiator since my b210 now leaks.  Once I have the 1200 rad in I will see about getting the old copper one repaired.  Sucks only having the one car.

Dat521,

Thanks much.  Sorry for the reply delays, new job, up to Utah for dads birthday among other things.  Been busy and had to replace my computer to boot.   I am contacting him now.