Jump to content

toonarmy

Members
  • Posts

    47
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by toonarmy

  1. Yeah, I've always heard/read that as well.  The only better options are an early Maxima intake (which positions the throttle body at the front of the motor- not really convenient for 510s) or a custom gutted intake plenum.  Pathfinder seems to be the best option if you're looking for increased hp/tq numbers.

  2. Nice VG dime!  Looks really clean.

     

    You're right about the Z31 manifold not fitting in the car, but it's because the manifold itself is so long that it hits the firewall.  The Pathfinder manifold is the one that sits up too high and contacts the hood unless the lower part of the manifold is machined down.  200SX manifold is the way to go if you don't want to have to do any parts machining or notching of the firewall.  

     

    Keep up the progress!

  3. No longer need any L-series stuff, so clearing out these intake manifolds.

     

     

    Edelbrock L-series manifold with what I think is an adaptor plate for a Weber carb (not sure though).  Same manifold that is shown in the book "How to Hotrod and Race your Datsun." 

     

    DSCN1045_zps64a7063f.jpg

     

    DSCN1048_zps9d10cdb1.jpg

     

     

     

    DSCN1047_zpsf00533f1.jpg

     

     

     

    Also have an Offenhauser Dual Plane L-series manifold (6002-DP).  This manifold was made specifically for an L-16 but I've read that it will fit an L20B as well.  One of the carb mounting studs is missing about 1/4" off the top of the stud as you can see in the pics below.  

     

    DSCN1049_zpsda315480.jpg

     

    DSCN1052_zpse2e3d4fa.jpg

     

    DSCN1051_zps5a75c8d2.jpg

     

     

    Both manifolds had been sitting in boxes for years, so I recently put them in the parts cleaner to clean them up a bit.  Asking $150 + shipping for the Edelbrock and $125 + shipping for the Offenhauser.  I'll answer any questions I can as well as provide more pics if requested.  Thanks.

    • Like 1
  4. Was out riding my bike when I came across this dime- first one I've ever seen in Athens.

     

    Photo042_zps32a96612.jpg

     

    Turned around and stalked him for a while until he stopped at his work.  Car has an L18 with 32/36 Weber.  He told me he picked it up years ago in Seattle and brought it back to the east coast.

  5. i still would kill to pull up to the school to pick up my daughter with a f-1 motor idling....wondder if i could get a crossing guard to help me re start it ....

     

    Oh don't get me wrong, i would kill to drive anything with that motor too, regardless of what it is

  6. I have an Edelbrock and an Offenhauser for an L-series motor- I just finished cleaning them up but hadn't gotten around to posting them in the for sale section.

     

    The Edelbrock intake manifold has an adaptor plate to run a Weber carb, and the Offenhauser is a dual-plane intake specifically for an L-16 (I think).  I can send pics- PM me if interested.

  7. Welcome to Ratsun and congrats on the score!

     

    Just a heads-up though- better hurry up with the pics because...

     

     

     

    Hell hath no fury like Ratsuners scorned (with no pics)!

     

     

    I'm sure others will chime in soon, but an L-series putting out 160 whp will be awfully expensive (and less and less reliable as you shoot for higher hp).  It would be easier to get those numbers with some sort of L-Z hybrid motor, but a KA with ITBs would be a good alternative to get near 160 whp as well (and KA-E motors are 25 years old, so technically they are antiques).  

     

    I've always been a fan of the later round-gauge instrument clusters, so that would get my vote.  But don't worry, you won't offend anyone on here by mixing and matching from the different model years, so do as you please.

     

    Fender flares are important if you want to go with a much wider wheel/tire combo, but if you can't do bodywork yourself then make sure that you have a good shop to install the rear flares and just buy the flared front fenders (check out Futofab).  

     

    All of your ideas simply come down to cost- doing all the work that you've outlined can get expensive, especially if you buy all of the parts new from aftermarket vendors.  Scouring junkyards and doing work yourself will help cut the total bill down.  Also checking out everything on this forum will give you ideas of how to save, and fellow Ratsuners provide lots of feedback and opinions (whether requested or not).  Hope you've got the budget to complete the build- good luck!

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.